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Old Oct 14, 2013 | 12:45 AM
  #36076  
OleBlue's Avatar
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From: Yakima
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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4.56
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 12:47 AM
  #36077  
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From: Yelm, WA
Year: 97
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Originally Posted by OleBlue
4.56
Cool thanks
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 12:56 AM
  #36078  
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From: Del city, OK
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: L6
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
It's cable operated. Check the connections for tightness.
Everything is tight, the mechanical bits all seem to be working, the tube coming out the back of the speedo terminates in a black disk with two wires, is it possible I could have fried something?
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 07:20 AM
  #36079  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
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Originally Posted by dr0wwarr10r
Everything is tight, the mechanical bits all seem to be working, the tube coming out the back of the speedo terminates in a black disk with two wires, is it possible I could have fried something?
Nothing to fry.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 08:47 AM
  #36080  
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From: Del city, OK
Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Nothing to fry.
Looks like its time for a new speedo then
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:04 AM
  #36081  
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From: Ky
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by salad
Bamboo is lightweight and reasonably strong, however it bends very easily and will only last a year or two exposed to the elements.

EMT conduit is lightweight, reasonably strong, galvanized, and doesn't bend when you put things on it that you'd actually put in a roof basket.
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I agree. EMT tubing is strong enough to hold 200+ lbs on top. I would NEVER try to strap as much stuff down on bamboo. Hell I had a load of firewood up there on the last camping trip.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 10:50 AM
  #36082  
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From: Chickamauga Ga.
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by donkeypunch

I agree. EMT tubing is strong enough to hold 200+ lbs on top. I would NEVER try to strap as much stuff down on bamboo. Hell I had a load of firewood up there on the last camping trip.
How did you build your rack? I would say an emt rack would be decent if it was welded, I would never trust set screw couplings to hold anything I didn't want to fall off going down the highway they.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 01:28 PM
  #36083  
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
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I have a question about exterior lighting.

I'm getting ready to upgrade all the front lighting on my 96 Sport with new bulbs/etc but can't quite figure out exactly what LEDs to get for the "parking" lights underneath the headlights as well as the corner blinker lights. What OEM part number should these be and what is the best LED to get from superbrightleds? I've read conflicting reports of blinkers not working right after installing LEDs, and some work fine without modification.

Eventually I want to replace all of my lighting with drop-in LED replacements if possible.

I'm planning on buying 4 of whatever LED needed in amber for those, and doing the H4 conversion on the headlights. I just bought the eautoworks HD H4 harness and am looking at my options as far as H4 bulbs and housings.

Thanks in advance
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 01:30 PM
  #36084  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by ohno40
I have a question about exterior lighting.

I'm getting ready to upgrade all the front lighting on my 96 Sport with new bulbs/etc but can't quite figure out exactly what LEDs to get for the "parking" lights underneath the headlights as well as the corner blinker lights. What OEM part number should these be and what is the best LED to get from superbrightleds? I've read conflicting reports of blinkers not working right after installing LEDs, and some work fine without modification.

Eventually I want to replace all of my lighting with drop-in LED replacements if possible.

I'm planning on buying 4 of whatever LED needed in amber for those, and doing the H4 conversion on the headlights. I just bought the eautoworks HD H4 harness and am looking at my options as far as H4 bulbs and housings.

Thanks in advance
LED turn signals work fine. You just need a no load flasher due to the lower amp draw. I don't know the bulb type offhand, though.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 01:31 PM
  #36085  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ohno40
I have a question about exterior lighting.

I'm getting ready to upgrade all the front lighting on my 96 Sport with new bulbs/etc but can't quite figure out exactly what LEDs to get for the "parking" lights underneath the headlights as well as the corner blinker lights. What OEM part number should these be and what is the best LED to get from superbrightleds? I've read conflicting reports of blinkers not working right after installing LEDs, and some work fine without modification.

Eventually I want to replace all of my lighting with drop-in LED replacements if possible.

I'm planning on buying 4 of whatever LED needed in amber for those, and doing the H4 conversion on the headlights. I just bought the eautoworks HD H4 harness and am looking at my options as far as H4 bulbs and housings.

Thanks in advance
Can't help ya on the LED's. My filament bulbs work fine.

Get any E-code housing with phillips 80/100 bulbs and you'll be pleased. I run AutoPal housings off of ebay for 30 bucks.

Aim them correctly and everyone else will be pleased.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 01:37 PM
  #36086  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by ohno40
I just bought the eautoworks HD H4 harness and am looking at my options as far as H4 bulbs and housings.

Thanks in advance
That wiring harness is not automotive grade and the connections are crimped only. I suggest pulling each contact and solder it. It only takes 15 minutes and will help insure that it still works in 2 years. I also ran the grounds to the battery , not the body.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 01:45 PM
  #36087  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr

That wiring harness is not automotive grade and the connections are crimped only. I suggest pulling each contact and solder it. It only takes 15 minutes and will help insure that it still works in 2 years. I also ran the grounds to the battery , not the body.
Sounds like good advice.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 01:56 PM
  #36088  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Engine: 4.0
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I'm sure that's not a bad idea. I should probably do that to mine.

Last edited by Lowrange2; Oct 14, 2013 at 03:27 PM.
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 02:38 PM
  #36089  
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Just ordered new control arm bushings for my xj . What is the best way to take out the old ones ?
Old Oct 14, 2013 | 02:50 PM
  #36090  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Salvagebaltss
Just ordered new control arm bushings for my xj . What is the best way to take out the old ones ?
I've always torched them until the rubber caught on fire, swole up and fell out. Then used a hacksaw to cut a notch in the outer sleeve and knock it out with a punch.

Then again I've learned that it's cheaper to put WJ lower control arms on with brand new bushings than it is the replace the bushings.



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