I'm doing WJ lowers but what about the uppers? I need new bushings in them too. Can the WJ uppers be ground down to fit? The article I read stretches the mounts out and I'd rather not do that.

 

I honestly don't see any benefit to WJ uppers. I'm sure they can be modified to work but I don't really see the point.

I never tried.

 

I'm from the ac power world, and we crimp almost , every thing, I have never had to solder a joint. What makes crimps such a bade idea in automotive wiring?

 

I don't see anything wrong with it. Every connection I've put in my Jeep is crimped.

Though, I can see how it'd be better to solder them since they're much more likely to out in the weather.

 

In the axle, a ball joint press.
In the control arms, it's cheaper and easier to replace the arms since they come with bushings. The stock arms are so thin that they distort with the press trying to replace bushings.
Burning or drilling out the rubber is another option.

 

The strands of wire in the crimp are individually exposed to air and will corrode, the corrosion works up the wire.
Soldering solidifies the wire and connection, leaving no room for air (oxidation) or contaminates such as mud, water, dirt.
I live on the ocean where oxidation occurs overnight so I must give special attention to things others never worry about.
Also, 'automotive' connections should seal when plugged together with a rubber boot or the like.
It is really a cheap harness, that Putco H4. But I have one installed and soldered, works great so far.

 

Living in a salt-air environment, 'crimp only' is not an option for me if I want it to still work in 6 months.
A soldered connection will flow electricity easier and will help eliminate hot spots (crimps).
But most importantly, solder will prevent corrosion between the wire strands. The corrosion will work it's way into the connection and up the wire.

 

OK I think my transmission may be slipping. I can't tell which gear it is but itt only happens at 2000 rpm. Basically if I hold the throttle at a certain point going down the road the Jeep kicks back multiple times. Kinda like someone brake-checking really past multiple times. But if I floor it right before 2000 rpms it doesn't do it.

 

Have you tried adjusting the kickdown cable?

 

The only real benefit is they're boxed but they don't have better bushings so I'll probably pass on that.

Is it easy enough to get the upper axle side bushings out without a torch?

 

Tested the TPS?

 

I found this in-line with my fog lamp switch. I removed it and my fog lamps worked. Can anyone tell me what this is and why the PO put it in?

 

Yes, but I just checked the transmission fluid level and it was right at the add mark so I added more

 

That is a rely. Looks like a factory harness.

 

Ya, but why was it inline with the fog lamp switch?