Originally Posted by sycoglitch

guys question. I have the RC shackle relocator and want to stop using a 2" extended shackle. anyone know of 1" aftermarket ones that fit the RC shackle relocator. The last ones I got were too wide and fit only stock mounting. thanks

Originally Posted by tssguy123

Here:
Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdZFfXMPhP0

I got a Thrush welded like a week ago today. I'm loving it. Sounds great, no drone. It's only even noticeable when I'm on the gas a decent bit or idling. In between I don't really hear a difference. I love it.

Originally Posted by my89xj

Sounds identical to my super 44. definitely buying this next time, cost half as much.

Originally Posted by DieselD

Are the relocation brackets too narrow (narrower than stock) or the shackles too wide?

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

They fit the terraflex shackles fine but i don't want to use that long of extended shackles and stock shackles don't work on the RC relocators. I would get.MJ ones if i knew they work properly

Originally Posted by dr0wwarr10r

on a 87 Cherokee pioneer what would explain no torque in drive with a seemingly regular takeoff in low 2 but no shifting beyond that? Had some electrical issues and I'm hoping to get away with a sensor or something, maybe the NSS.

Originally Posted by a_shirey

MJ shackles only give .5" of lift anyway.

IRO has some I believe. And they definitely have .75" shackles.

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

I need to make sure they fit the RC relocators is my concern

Originally Posted by sycoglitch

I need to make sure they fit the RC relocators is my concern

Originally Posted by Cnwxj

call them up, they can get you the specs.

Originally Posted by a_shirey

Measure the bracket width and call some companies.

Originally Posted by tssguy123

My dad's first comment when it came in the mail and I got it welded on was "I didn't know you bought a flowmaster."

Originally Posted by Salvagebaltss

Thanks for posting, will most likely go with a thrush lol

Originally Posted by SeriousOffroad

They are not adjustable, but if installed improperly the engine will run but very poorly.

Remove the #1 Spark Plug
Remove the Dist.Cap
Remove the distributor.
Bring the #1 piston up to Top Dead Center on the Compression Stroke. Stuff your finger in the spark plug hole while someone bumps the starter. When yo feel air blowing by your finger STOP.
Use a 19mm socket and turn the harmonic balancer bolt clockwise (only) while keeping an eye on the timing marks on the timing chain cover.
Once the #1 piston is at TDC, re-install the distributor so that the rotor is pointing at the 5 O'clock position when the distributor is fully seated.

A word of caution.
Make sure that you rotate the oilpump shaft with a long screwdiver so that it lines up properly with the distributor. Failure to do so will prevent the distributor from fully seating.

Reinstall the cap
Reinstall the sparkplug
Double check the plugwires to make sure you have the correct sequence.
Fire it up.

Originally Posted by T1XJ

hello all, so heres what i have. i just finished a motor swap today from a 99 w/ax15 to a 99 w/aw4. both ran before swap, although motor i swapped in hadn't been started and a while. problem is, it's not starting now after the swap. sounds like it wants to but can't. fuel pump is audible. all wires plugged in. did some research, sounded like CPS issue so i tried the other one i had but nothing changed. gauges appeared normal with CPS plugged or unplugged(a symptom i read about.)
so now i'm thinking i need to align the 1st piston to TDC and maybe i'll be all set. i'll be using this write up most likely-



sorry for long post, but does it sound like i am heading in the right direction? anything else to try if that doesn't work?