Jeggs hands down.

While we are on the subject of wheels. Talking about backspace here bigger the number least amount they stick out for example 3.75 backspace rim sticks out further than a 5 backspace rim... Correct?

I'm getting confused lately and I don't speak metric lol. Offset and all the crap is like Chinese to me. All I know is the old d windows I had were 3.75 I believe.. I'm looking to get rims that stick out a good bit.

 

Correct. With my stock 5.5" back spaced rims my 31s rub at full lock. If I got 4.5" back spaced rims they would stick out more and wouldnt rub.

 

88 Xj 4.0 4x4

Could i remove and replace the stock brake booster with a new one without bleeding the breaks or disconnecting the lines. Iv never attempted any booster jobs and dont know much about them.

 

I dont remember where I copied this from but I had it saved from when I sent it to a friend who has a 98' that is about to change his brake booster.

"You don't have to bleed the brakes at the wheels cylinders or calipers. If you are replacing the master cylinder you bench bleed the master first. When you install it as long as you don't open any bleeder screws the fluid in the lines will remain and all you have to do is re attach them to the new master. Air does not enter the lines when you remove them from the master unless the bleeder screws are opened first. BTW, a quick test of the booster leak problem , remove the check valve from the booster and plug the line. Start the engine and see if runs normally, idle and all. Re attach the booster check valve and restart the engine, after 30 seconds turn off the engine and pump the pedal 5 times , the brake pedal should get rock hard, after pumping the peddle 5 times while still holding the pedal down restart the engine, if the booster diaphragm is working correctly the pedal should drop to the floor a couple of inches. From what you described the booster sounds like the problem, and many companies offer the booster and master together as a kit."

 

Thats what i assumed. I wasnt sure if the booster had any gaskets or what not for the master cylinder.

 

Let me know how it goes, Im supposed to help change my first booster this weekend.

 

I wont be doing mine for about a month. But when i do it i plan on buying a brand new dual diaphram booster and master cylinder off a newer cherokee.

Im jist trying to figure out the brake line routing part of the upgrade write up.

 

Well i cleaned 2 ground points and my dash lights lasted a day then fuse #19 blew again... any suggestions? Ive been dealing with this since i bought the dang thing.

 

Id check all parking lamps for connection issue since there operated from same switch .

 

All outside lights work perfectly fine. No issues there.

 

Radio illumination also works with them ?

 

Its aftermarket radio but its unplugged now since ive been trying to fix this. No dash illumination works at all when fuse #19 is blown.

 

I had a broken wire in the harness that went to the passenger door. It only blew the fuse when the door opened while the lights were on. It drove me crazy nearly two years, but did the same thing your experiencing.

 

Mine will go randomly while driving. Sometimes the fuse will last a day or 2. Sometimes it blows the second i put it in drive and the vehicle moves. Ive removed the lighter, replaced the headlight switch. Tried tracing the wiring. Unplugged the horns. The wire seems to go into the engine bay towards the big fuse box by the coolant('96).

 

96 is the changeover year what else does fuse 19 power ?