It makes sense, i'm sure ill be fine, thanks for the help guys

 

It's pretty much the same concept as running lower gears in the axles. It's all about gear reduction.

As long as the engine can handle the RPMs it's good to go.

 

Good to know. I knew about towing in third but wasn't sure if not having a loa and drivin normal if those higher rpms are bad for third gear but makes sense.

 

3rd gear in an AW4 is 1:1 ratio. In almost all transmissions, the direct gear isn't actually a gear and the transmission simply locks input and output shafts together. Best gear to be in! lol

 

I'm looking for pointers on how you guys get all the bolts on and tight when upgrading to the 99+ intake manifold? I have a 96 XJ and am not having any luck getting these in and tight

 

Well if I recall they dont go on very tight at all something like 30lb thats all but I may be wrong..

 

Well I figured out my issue, the intake is hitting my header...

 

Get out the file and grinder.

 

94 cherokee sport at 4.0 driving down interstate jeep suddenly bucked then died,I just replaced the ignition switch and figured it had something to do with that. towed it home checked no spark, then acted like battery was dead, clean terminals charged battery, still cranked slow then clicking. pulled starter bench tested, no good. gonna get new starter. meanwhile checked to see if power at coil, yes. switch works correctly in all positions. anybody have any ideas W.T.F. is going on need jeep for work Monday.

 

Alternator? When mine did that a while back, it was because my push button start ACC switch burnt out.

 

???would my alt make it crank slow? are you saying switch could be bad or miss adjusted ? it works in all positions and i have power at coil.

 

Sounds like a bad starter. Get the new one in and see if it helps.

 

Just giving ideas man. Alt would not make it a slow crank. I was referring to the push button start mod incase you had done it.

 

1996 high output 4.0. My belt snapped and I'm putting a new one on,the idler that adjusts the tension won't move and the bolt is stripped out. Any ways around this?

 

Hi all, I been doing some searches but haven't found any answers to my question so I'm posting it here.
I recently replaced the driver front wheel bearing, outer shaft and u-joint on my '95 Cherokee country. When I took it for a test drive all seemed fine until I tested it in 4w high. I started hearing a popping or snapping like sound from the front diff as if the splines were skipping or something. It's a stock Cherokee with a Dana 30. Any suggestions would be great thanks!