Thank you!!!

 

No problem

 

Would y'all suggest getting greasable sway bar bushings or non greasable? My front ones are way shot from my recently fixed death wobble and it's my dd so I can't just get rid of the front sway bar.

 

If they come non-greasable from the factory it can't hurt to go with non-greasable replacements.

 

This was answered 3 times yesterday afternoon

 

^ This! I answered this 2 pages ago!

 

Well, nobody listens to you!! LOL.

That would require reading and stuff.

 

Ohes Noes!

 

Sorry guys. I was looking for like a simpler answer that i just didnt find in the other responses. you guys can all rock on though

 

I rebuilt the double cardan in my rear DS recently (its a front DS) because one the u joint closest to the Tcase was totally destroyed (no needles remained in two of the caps..). Decided to do both the u joints in the dbl cardan as well as to rebuild the centering ball while I had it apart.

My paint pen mark on the centering ball was lost during cleaning, or I forgot to make it so I wasn't able to ensure the original orientation when reassembling. Should I have the DS balanced? Its $65 to have it done at the one place around here. I was thinking I might as well replace the u joint at the rear diff while I'm at it before I shell out $65 for the DS to be balanced.

I would assume that DS balancing is good not just to reduce vibration but to avoid undue wear on all the components mated to the driveshaft (t-case, the u joints, centering ball etc.)

Thanks guys

 

that guy will always give the simple answer of no loll. happy you got your answer though

 

 

Happened for the second time yesterday, so I guess it's time I look into this.

A couple weeks ago, I noticed the GEN light was on when I was driving around, so when I arrived at my place, I shut the engine and when I tried to start it again, it wouldn't even crank. So I figured I might have an issue with my battery, but I disconnected the battery, connected it after a couple minutes and magic, the jeep started without any issues and the light didn't come back.

Basically I thought nothing of it until it happened again yesterday, so before I stay stuck somewhere and the disconnect/connect trick doesn't work, I figured I should find what the problem could be.

Any idea? Thanks!

 

The guy I got my bumper from also tossed me a set of brand new rotors and pads from an 89-96 XJ, well it's time to do brakes on my 99 and would like to know if they'll work for me, or if I need to buy another set...

 

Depends on if they're full-cast or composite rotors. If they match your current ones you'll be fine.

Difference is that the composite rotors have a stamped steel bit that mounts them to the hub. This results in I think 1/4" difference in stud length. In practice you change out the hubs (Not 100% sure if changing the studs is practical). The hubs may be different thicknesses