Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,652
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Looking to swap the lip under the bumper that's between the two bumper caps from one of my XJs to the other, just took a look under there and Im not sure what I have to do to get that thing off of there. Can anyone tell me or point me towards a write up of how to get all that trim off?
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver
Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Hard to tell if its safe without knowing the reason for it being on.
Normally ABS systems are designed to operate like a non ABS vehicle when something fails in the system. In which case its safe to drive.
I would find why it's on before driving it.
Normally ABS systems are designed to operate like a non ABS vehicle when something fails in the system. In which case its safe to drive.
I would find why it's on before driving it.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
Mines a daily driver that will see some off road driving but will rarely be wheeled, Im keeping the stock bumper and end caps which looks a lot better with the stock lip in between them. The one on my new XJ is cracked down the center from the PO and my old XJ has an intact one, so I'd like the intact one on my new Jeep. My plan is to repaint the stock plastic trim this Saturday.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 2,652
Likes: 2
From: Kansas
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 190-hp, 4.0-liter I-6
Mines a daily driver that will see some off road driving but will rarely be wheeled, Im keeping the stock bumper and end caps which looks a lot better with the stock lip in between them. The one on my new XJ is cracked down the center from the PO and my old XJ has an intact one, so I'd like the intact one on my new Jeep. My plan is to repaint the stock plastic trim this Saturday.
Senior Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 541
Likes: 1
From: Vancouver
Year: 1998 and 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.7
Pros: As strong as D44 (IMO), aftermarket support, LSD/4.10 option, inexpensive, disc brakes.
Cons: C-clips (They make c-clip eliminator kits), kinda bulky, slightly narrower than stock, tubes need to be welded to housing to prevent spinning the tubes, you'll need to move the spring perches and shock mounts (but that's going to be the same with any axle).
I've run 35's/locked on mine for a long while and never had a single issue.
IMO, it's a good choice for a mild rig.
Cons: C-clips (They make c-clip eliminator kits), kinda bulky, slightly narrower than stock, tubes need to be welded to housing to prevent spinning the tubes, you'll need to move the spring perches and shock mounts (but that's going to be the same with any axle).
I've run 35's/locked on mine for a long while and never had a single issue.
IMO, it's a good choice for a mild rig.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Got one? Yes. Installed? Not yet.
As a side note about the dreaded C clip. If one has disk breaks, even if the C-clip snaps or comes out, the axel WILL NOT come out. It will be held by the rotor. Instead of spending the money on Super 8.8 mod to remove clip, just get one with disk brakes already on it. Get the 31 spline version. It's tough as nails.
No, it'll walk out. Just not as much or quick. The soft brake line will help keep it on unless it gets messed up
As a side note about the dreaded C clip. If one has disk breaks, even if the C-clip snaps or comes out, the axel WILL NOT come out. It will be held by the rotor. Instead of spending the money on Super 8.8 mod to remove clip, just get one with disk brakes already on it. Get the 31 spline version. It's tough as nails.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Looking to swap the lip under the bumper that's between the two bumper caps from one of my XJs to the other, just took a look under there and Im not sure what I have to do to get that thing off of there. Can anyone tell me or point me towards a write up of how to get all that trim off?
That's called the air dam. There are two (one per side) 10mm nuts & bolts affixing it to the bumper caps, and a handful of press-in plastic fasteners that hold it to the bumper. They're like these:
Remove with a small prying tool or side cutters. You'll want to buy some to replace em, all auto parts stores have them.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Curious, are you replacing the rad with an aftermarket one that doesn't have the transmission section? Most people leave the main rad plumbed in with the auxiliary cooler so that the transmission fluid gets up to temp faster. (Factory did this too btw)
Member
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
From: middlebury vt
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 6cyl
I've got a 96 jeep cherokee 4.0 and I plan on doing a general tune up soon I was wondering what the best plugs, wires and rotor are I wanna get the best performance ones I can and don't know much about that stuff also later on in the next few months thinking about putting new four hole injectors and a new fuel filter my air filter is clean and I plan on moving it to the cowl and probably putting a cone filter on it.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 380
Likes: 4
From: Vancouver BC
Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0
And most I've bin looking at do not have the trans cooler inside.
And i was curious to see how cool the two core i have now would get without the hot trans fluid running through it. I assume i could get a few degrees cooler?