Anyone else's stock headlights seem yellowish? Thinking I should buy a new set from NAPA to hold me over until I can buy Truck Lites LEDs.

 

Wiring not always good. All headlight power go trough the switch.
I measured the voltage at my headlight when on and engine running.

14.2 V at the battery and 10.2 V at the headlight.
there is 4.2V lost somewhere between battery and lights.

I re-wired lights with relays for high and low beam directly from the battery to the lights. The relays are turned on by the original wiring.
The difference is AMAZING with full voltage at lights.

A lots of kits are available for this. Totally worth it.

 

Absolutely. Do this^^ and the difference will be very noticeable. Takes the amp load off the switch and provides an upgrade path to brighter lights in the future.
http://www.eautoworks.com/Putco-H4--...s-PRD7540.aspx

Cruiser’s Headlight Upgrade Harness Instructions
　
It's easy to install a supplemental headlight harness.

From the factory, the voltage to the headlight bulbs travels from the battery, inside the cabin, to the headlamp switch, and then back out to the lamps via undersized wire. It's not uncommon to find only 10.5 volts at the lamps.

The supplemental harness is installed so that it provides battery voltage to the lamps and is just triggered by the factory wiring. The result is about 30% brighter headlamps and headlight switches that don't melt and burn out.
　
　
Absolutely plug and play. Remove grille and headlamp bulbs. I fed my harnesses from the passenger side starting between the battery and the back of the headlamp housing, over to the driver side. Plug the driver side bulb into the new harness. Attach the new harness's ground wire under one of the small bolts on the radiator support after scraping the paint off under it. Attach the harness to the existing harness behind the grille working toward the passenger side. . Plug the new harness plug into passenger headlamp. Plug original headlamp plug into receptacle on new harness. Attach the ground for the passenger side just like you did the driver side under a radiator support bolt. Attach relays with provided bracket on the passenger side inner fender. Connect power wires to battery.
Revised 12/10/2012

 

Will a renix alternator work with a high output? I know I can change the bracket but what about the plugs and what not. My renix alt is a better 136amp one.

 

whats up guys, I have bought me a peach lol 1988 Cherokee 2 door 5 speed 2WHEEL drive, only thing, the ole guy I got it from bought a new new liberty for his wife, and this one has set for 2 yrs not started. so today im out tinkering with it, and im not getting fire out of the coil, I have change the coil out, and still no fire what next HELP!

 

Can you draw a quick picture of it and what gauge wire

 

Thanks cruiser and Karl. I suck at electrical so I appreciate all the help. Is this the same kit on Amazon? http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P29X4G

If so, I'll buy it from there and save a few bucks.

 

Yep. Same one.

 

gojeep.com has a diagram.

 

Test the CPS to begin with.



Renix CPS Testing and Adjusting
　
　
Renix CPSs have to put out a strong enough signal to the ECU so that it will provide spark.
Most tests for the CPS suggest checking it for an ohms value. This is unreliable and can cause some wasted time and aggravation in your diagnosis of a no-start issue as the CPS will test good when in fact it is bad.
The problem with the ohms test is you can have the correct amount of resistance through the CPS but it isn’t generating enough voltage to trigger the ECU to provide spark.
Unplug the harness connector from the CPS. Using your voltmeter set on AC volts and probing both wires in the connector going to the CPS, crank the engine over. It won’t start with the CPS disconnected.
You should get a reading of .5 AC volts.
If you are down in the .35 AC volts range or lower on your meter reading, you can have intermittent crank/no-start conditions from your Renix Jeep. Some NEW CPSs (from the big box parts stores) have registered only .2 AC volts while reading the proper resistance!! That’s a definite no-start condition. Best to buy your CPS from Napa or the dealer.
Sometimes on a manual transmission equipped Renix Jeep there is an accumulation of debris on the tip of the CPS. It’s worn off clutch material and since the CPS is a magnet, the metal sticks to the tip of the CPS causing a reduced voltage signal. You MAY get by with cleaning the tip of the CPS off.
A little trick for increasing the output of your CPS is to drill out the upper mounting hole to 3/8" from the stock 5/16", or slot it so the CPS bracket rests on the bell housing when pushed down. Then, when mounting it, hold the CPS down as close to the flywheel as you can while tightening the bolts.

　
　
Revised 01-26-2013

 

Yes Marty, the *** end.

So lemmie try and understand your thought process. You would rather put off changing the diff fluid because; gasket, permetex bead width, and stripped bolts? So would you rather have to gut the differential and change out everything, such as bearings and ring gear, etc. vs. just unbolting, draining and refilling?
I wheel my jeep, and it's also a DD so I usually change out the gear oil 3-4 times a year depending on how much water I get in. I personally would never let 30k miles between changes regardless though.
Bimmer it's easy. Get a felpro gasket and a tube of black permetex. The bead width doesn't need to be any larger than the size of a nightcrawler. Pop the haynes open and go to town. They even have torque values in the haynes book, so no busted bolts.

 

Hey if anyone needs xj parts my 2000 is at copart salvage yard in dunn north carolina, it has brand new four hole injectors on it I bought from on here and the back tires are brand new bfg a/t 30s etc etc also less than a yr old aw4 2wd trans and everything is still good if u wanna do a rhd swap

 

Also a brand new starter for pre 98 cuz I did the conversion

 

OK thanks I'm gonna go check it out

 

SORRY about the caps lock,,bad habit i guess...