Check the plug wires.

 

I'm getting conflicting stories on how hard replacing the shocks on an XJ really is. Forum braggarts like to say it can be done by a 6 year old in 10 mins. Other people then start telling stories of frozen bolts needing torches. Then, welded bolts needing to be air chiseled off. Does anyone have a photo of a welded both that needs to be air hammers/chiseled off? I have no idea what this even means or looks like. Then, rusted bolts snapping off and new brackets needing to be rewelded and new holes being tapped. Clearly, this account of the job is really more for hardcore gearheads and pro mechanics, not some accountant with a basic tool set. What is the reality?

Also, can someone list ALL the hardware needed to replace all 4 shocks? Every bolt and washer and nut? I do not reuse any stuff like this once it's already out, and know to be rusted/frozen/cracked. I prefer to be prepared for the worst.

 

The problem you will likely run into is the top bolts on the rear shocks breaking, if they do break it's not a big deal. You just get a hammer and a punch and knock them out, then get some tie wire and fish new bolt in. It's easy, I can get some pics if you need them.

Here are some pics.

 

That makes it a lot more clear. Thanks. Here is what I don't get. Is the bolt threaded into that hole in the frame, or does it just slide through? If it's threaded through, then how can you punch it out? Don't you need to somehow unthread it and back it out? That seems like you'd need a drill and tap/die set. If it just slips through the frame hole, then why do you need to hammmer/punch it out? Can't you just push it up and out with a finger?

Also, do you know the bolt and washer sizes I need to replace everything?

 

there are nuts welded on to the back side of the holes that the bolts thread into. by punching them out you are actually breaking off that nut in the back.

i just recently did this using this method and it is fairly easy. the smaller the wire, the better. craft stores sell some stuff that works really well.

also, make sure you're patient when punching out the old bolts. they take longer than you would think but they'll come out eventually if you keep at it.

 

Pulled the plug and it was clean and the wire looked good as well. Started up the jeep and let it get to temp with no problem. Took it to Autozone to get the codes erased but they dont do that so i just bought one and did my self. The jeep is running well and i hope the problem has gone away on its own.

 

On the 87-80 4.0 throttle body there is a rubber grommet that the MAF's plastic line goes into. Its on the back side of the throttle body closest to the valve cover.

My question is can i purchase that grommet anywhere?

 

Help! How do I remove the manual mirror adjuster? 1996 btw. I'm trying to re-paint my mirrors but it's too cold outside so I have to take the housings inside to paint... There's a screw on the bottom of the adjuster that I can see. Looks like a Torx but it's quite a bit smaller than a T10.

 

During the VC gasket fix, someone said they had trouble removing the wire harness from the coil. I did not even see this mentioned in the write-up.....typical.... Can you explain what this is?

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/v...-pics-1121533/

 

So, what do you use when you put all the new stuff in? Clearly, you can't weld a new nut back there. So, do you just not have a nut back there? It sounds impossible to place a new nut back there, and then try to thread a new bolt through the unwelded nut.

How the heck does one use an air hammer/chisel to remove that rear welded nut? Just by doing what the awl/punch is doing on the remaining bolt shear?

 

You don't remove them. Just pull it thru the hole in the door. Push the rubber grommet thru first.

 

You sure? I have the remote mirror adjuster thing. I'll post a picture in a second.

 

Iv read people tape a nut in the box end of a wrench and slide the wrench into the spall openings on each side if the jeep. If you look there are like cubby access to slide a wrench in and then just bolt on the shocks. Id use some sort of loc tite to make sure they dont loosen up on you.

 

Much easier to pull a new bolt through the jole from the top using some mechanics wire wrapped around the threads, and put the nut on the bottom. Most times you don't even need to put a wrench on it to tighten It down.

 

Ok, so you then stick the wrench up in that spall, and then fish a bolt in that same spall, and then how are you supposed to spin the bolt thru the taped nut? Is there room for your entire hand? I assume not if you need to fish the bolt in that spall instead of just sticking your hand in there and pushing it through.

Dukie, so you remove the welded nut and simply never replace it? You just put a nut on the bottom side of that panel? So, you will have one nut holding the bolt to the frame. Then you will have the shock. Then you'll need a 2nd nut to hold the shock to the bolt? Do you use washers all around?

From top to bottom, is this the order?
Bolt head
Washer
Frame/Unibody
Washer
Nut (to secure bolt to unibody)
Shock "bracket"
Washer
Nut (to secure shock to bolt)