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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:46 AM
  #43426  
BOOMroasted's Avatar
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by salad
Well I don't need the ointment, but yes that can cause a tiiiny but of a leak... slightly...



This is much more likely. The valve cover is sitting on top of the head. Oil that leaks out of it creeps around the edges, up the grommets, and onto the nuts & studs. The stuff that leaks down the head gets baked off because, well, it's the head and it gets hot lol.

Leaking valve cover #1 source of mess like that. Get yourself a Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus. Reusable, comes with all the hardware. No BS.
Thank you! Now I've got an inexpensive project for the weekend

X2 ↑↑↑↑ Clean and paint it while your in there!
Definitely will be! I actually got a price on the felpro gasket last week because i've been dying to paint my valve cover. I figured I'd just go ahead and change it on what I thought was the off chance it was the cause of my leak.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:53 AM
  #43427  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by OP_Rover
Anyone have any insight on this problem: Yesterday I was driving at my jeep's normal temp (just over 210) and randomly my jeep rapidly shot up to past 260. This spike caused my coolant to boil, I shut the engine off, waited untill it cooled down, put more coolant in, and started it again, and everything was normal? What would cause that?
This might be too easy of an explanation but is there any chance you had a clog? This happened to me on a trip a few weeks ago. It's like the temp jumps from 210 to red instantly. Had to pull over on the side of the highway for a while to let it cool down and noticed my cooling system barfed up some nasty stuff into the overflow reservoir. After letting it cool down I made it all the way home without a problem.

I spent the next week or two flushing and refilling the system and heater core that was lined with rusty sediment. Now it's clean and green.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:56 AM
  #43428  
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From: Huntsville, Tn
Year: Different Years (I have several XJ's)
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Engine: 4.0 HO
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^^^^ happened to me.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:58 AM
  #43429  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
This might be too easy of an explanation but is there any chance you had a clog? This happened to me on a trip a few weeks ago. It's like the temp jumps from 210 to red instantly. Had to pull over on the side of the highway for a while to let it cool down and noticed my cooling system barfed up some nasty stuff into the overflow reservoir. After letting it cool down I made it all the way home without a problem.

I spent the next week or two flushing and refilling the system and heater core that was lined with rusty sediment. Now it's clean and green.
Did you install a new radiator cap?
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 09:51 AM
  #43430  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Did you install a new radiator cap?
I did. And a bunch of other stuff mostly for peace of mind.

This is a good time to mention what inspired my username. Yes it's from The Office but it's also because when I drove my jeep home the first day from the dealership the radiator blew. Literally blew up. The previous owner had completely neglected the cooling system and the dealership didnt do **** about it. They just prettied it up and pushed it off the lot. My fault for not looking into it but I knew a whole lot less about automobiles in general back then.

Long story short, a man among men named Tony Bennett saved me and my wallet that weekend by driving all the way to jacksonville to get a radiator and helping me replace it in the gas station parking lot. It's a pretty crazy story.

Since then I've replaced the coolant about 3 times whenever I noticed it was starting to look reddish. Just drained it and refilled :\. It wasn't until this last emergency a few weeks ago I realized I needed to look into some serious cooling system maintenance. I'm looking forward to next winter now because my heater doesn't suck anymore!

Last edited by BOOMroasted; Jun 11, 2014 at 10:09 AM.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 12:14 PM
  #43431  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
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Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted

Thank you! Now I've got an inexpensive project for the weekend

Definitely will be! I actually got a price on the felpro gasket last week because i've been dying to paint my valve cover. I figured I'd just go ahead and change it on what I thought was the off chance it was the cause of my leak.
The gasket would have taken me 30min, but it took me 2 hrs to clean and prep my valve cover.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:09 PM
  #43432  
Seattle's Avatar
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Default Installing Harmonic Balancer - Flywheel Turning

1992 XJ stock.

Using the installer tool we got to a point where turning the nut is causing the engine to move. It has been suggested that we use a screw driver at the flywheel inspection plate to stop it from turning. I'm concerned that this could cause damage. It doesn't seem like the right tool for the job.

My teenager is the one actually wrenching on this. He bought the jXJ and after watching some youtube vids (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex_yJ_V5UH8) , and reading the forum he felt he could handle the job. After searching for a solution here today and reading about all the problems other's have had I'm wondering if I should suggest he have this towed to a mechanic. What would you guys say the level of difficulty is for changing the harmonic balancer yourself? He has a good toolset and has taken some mechanics class at the voc-tech, but this is probably the most intensive work he's done on a vehicle. Previous work has been along the level of replacing wheel bearings, belts, and brake jobs.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:24 PM
  #43433  
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Seattle
1992 XJ stock.

Using the installer tool we got to a point where turning the nut is causing the engine to move. It has been suggested that we use a screw driver at the flywheel inspection plate to stop it from turning. I'm concerned that this could cause damage. It doesn't seem like the right tool for the job.

My teenager is the one actually wrenching on this. He bought the jXJ and after watching some youtube vids (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ex_yJ_V5UH8) , and reading the forum he felt he could handle the job. After searching for a solution here today and reading about all the problems other's have had I'm wondering if I should suggest he have this towed to a mechanic. What would you guys say the level of difficulty is for changing the harmonic balancer yourself? He has a good toolset and has taken some mechanics class at the voc-tech, but this is probably the most intensive work he's done on a vehicle. Previous work has been along the level of replacing wheel bearings, belts, and brake jobs.
Open the inspection cover on the bellhousing, use a wrench on one of the torque converter bolts, rotate the crankshaft with the bolt on the harmonic balancer until the wrench (on the torque converter) gets held up on the block. Should be able to take the bolt out then. Do NOT lose the "key" for the harmonic balancer, and do NOT forget to put it back in either. Thats probably a 2-4 on the difficulty scale.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:40 PM
  #43434  
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Should be able to take the bolt out then. Do NOT lose the "key" for the harmonic balancer, and do NOT forget to put it back in either. Thats probably a 2-4 on the difficulty scale.
Thanks for your help.

Not trying to take the bolt out yet. Still trying to seat the harmonic balancer, but I'm assuming the "locked out" flywheel is necessary for both operations.

What is the "key" you refer to, and how would one lose it? Would that most likely happen in the removal or installation process?
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:44 PM
  #43435  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
Open the inspection cover on the bellhousing, use a wrench on one of the torque converter bolts, rotate the crankshaft with the bolt on the harmonic balancer until the wrench (on the torque converter) gets held up on the block. Should be able to take the bolt out then. Do NOT lose the "key" for the harmonic balancer, and do NOT forget to put it back in either. Thats probably a 2-4 on the difficulty scale.
My Volvo mechanic puts a wrench on the balancer bolt, up against something solid, then cranks the engine just enough to engage the starter. Bolt is loose.
I have done it a few times too, but not on a 4.0 liter.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:56 PM
  #43436  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
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Originally Posted by Seattle
Thanks for your help.

Not trying to take the bolt out yet. Still trying to seat the harmonic balancer, but I'm assuming the "locked out" flywheel is necessary for both operations.

What is the "key" you refer to, and how would one lose it? Would that most likely happen in the removal or installation process?
The key is a metal wedge or shim that rotationally locks the balancer to the shaft. Inserts in recess in shaft when installing balancer. They sometimes fall off when removing.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 03:11 PM
  #43437  
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From: San Jose
Year: 89
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Originally Posted by Seattle

Thanks for your help.

Not trying to take the bolt out yet. Still trying to seat the harmonic balancer, but I'm assuming the "locked out" flywheel is necessary for both operations.

What is the "key" you refer to, and how would one lose it? Would that most likely happen in the removal or installation process?
What do you mean by "seat" the balancer. You cant do anything to it unless the bolt is out.

Not knowing the key is there is how you loose it. When you pull the balancer off, it will either be on the balancer, or on the shaft. Keep track of it.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 03:17 PM
  #43438  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr

My Volvo mechanic puts a wrench on the balancer bolt, up against something solid, then cranks the engine just enough to engage the starter. Bolt is loose.
I have done it a few times too, but not on a 4.0 liter.
I dont think theres anything to brace against, but that's a great idea
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 03:53 PM
  #43439  
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
What do you mean by "seat" the balancer. You cant do anything to it unless the bolt is out.

Not knowing the key is there is how you loose it. When you pull the balancer off, it will either be on the balancer, or on the shaft. Keep track of it.
By "seat the balancer" I meant pushing it on all the way. When I started turning the nut on the installation tool it was about 2" away from the case. I was about to move a little more than an inch and a half closer before turning that nut began to turn the crankshaft. That is where we left it last night. I wasn't the one who took it off, so I'm not sure exactly how close to the timing case it is supposed to be. Am I almost there at 1/4"? Is it time to start using the torque wrench?

Is there anything else that we should be replacing while we are working on the harmonic balancer?

Last edited by Seattle; Jun 11, 2014 at 04:01 PM.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 04:57 PM
  #43440  
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Originally Posted by Seattle

By "seat the balancer" I meant pushing it on all the way. When I started turning the nut on the installation tool it was about 2" away from the case. I was about to move a little more than an inch and a half closer before turning that nut began to turn the crankshaft. That is where we left it last night. I wasn't the one who took it off, so I'm not sure exactly how close to the timing case it is supposed to be. Am I almost there at 1/4"? Is it time to start using the torque wrench?

Is there anything else that we should be replacing while we are working on the harmonic balancer?
Oh, you already pulled the old one off. Im guessing you put the key back in or it would probably slip over the shaft. You'll have to take a picture. Its been a while since I did mine, I cant recall how much is enough.



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