Odd. Any identifying marks?

Can you measure the inner diameter of all the eyes on both springs?

It may be just a fluke but some aftermarket springs don't use OE size bushings.

 

Is their a write up similar to cruisers renix tips for a 95 4.0 zj? Or are most of the processes the same?

 

Most of the methods are the same, with the obvious exception that the brains and fuel system are Chrysler OBD-I. TPS only has one side, there's no C101 in the first place, PCM is under the hood, etc. Spend a few minutes poking around with a diagram in your hand (even a Chiltons may suffice) and you'll figure it out.

 

Alright, its for a friends ZJ and he is having some minor running issues so were going to try to get everything maintained then start testing sensors to figure out his issue. Hes getting a MAP code saying its not reading enough vacuum and a O2 Code saying its too lean. Were assuming maps going out.

 

Maybe. Sounds like cracked vacuum hose and exhaust manifold leak so far lol

 

Anyone have a link to a guide/write up on DIY transfer case linkage?

I'm looking to scrap the stock stuff when I swap the shift gates out. I don't want to pay big money to do it.

Any help is appreciated, even a sparse list of needed hardware lol.

 

Here ya go.
http://www.bsfab.net/?p=26

 

Thank you that's the one I had bookmarked before and couldn't find. S10 shift lever.... JY run.

 

I have my new to me 1991 Cherokee 4.0. It has about 120k miles on it now, I got it with 118k. It looked like the waterpump and thermostat had been replaced. I flushed the coolant out about a week after buying it with 50/50. I took it on a few trips and it overheated, the idiot light didn't come on of course. I swapped gauge clusters with a new sending unit for the temperature. Now I can see it slowly overheat over time, as you can see in my avatar. I pulled the thermostat out today, it was a 160* failsafe in good condition, it was locked into the open position from all of the overheating. I removed the thermostat and refilled the system, its still appearing to overheat, 30 minutes of driving and already at 210*, I put some CLR to try and flush out the original metal radiator, I'll flush it out tomorrow and hopefully its just a clogged radiator.

Anybody have any advice what cured their over heating?

 

Not sure if anyone knows this or not but owe well. If I have my TB bored out at work to 62mm would I need a new butterfly clip? If I only do 60mm would I be ok? It would be paired with cowl intake, 703s, header, 99+ intake manifold, and full 2.5" exhaust. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

If you bore out the bottom to make the walls straight, you don't need to replace the valve. Anything more, you do.

 

Thank you clown! Which size do you think would work better for my setup? 60 or 62?

 

More wouldn't hurt, but I think you'd be fine with 60mm. If you have the means to bore and replace the valve, I'd go to 62.

 

I work in a metal factory. Tool room can bore it out for me and engineers can send a print to one of our lasers to cut of a new 62mm valve. Assuming that its just a circle? Are there bolt holes or anything on it?