Hey, trying to find any ideas for why my XJ won't start, I'v tried searching other posts and found a bunch that were close to similar but always just little different that would lead to different results. First the Jeep is a '00 Cherokee sport 4.0. Ran fine til one day the alternator seized when started, took a couple months before I got around to replacing it (not my daily driver) with a brand new one from Advanced. During the time it sat the battery also died and couldn't be charged but luckily under warranty still so replaced with brand new battery as well. Now it will turn over consistently but not compression. Stabilizer has been added and I bleed the lines a few times using the relief valve to get any water droplets out that might be in them. Also tried using starter spray while, turning it over, still nothing. Also during this process pulled the plugs and check them (they had been replaced fairly recently along with the coil bar) and wiped them off but they looked fine so i didn't not replace them again. No engine light or any other indicated lights. With everything being replaced recently I'm running out of ideas, any help would be appreciated.

Hoping this would be unrelated but went to check the power steering fluid cause it was dripping from the cap recently and after opening the reservoir it started overflowing, and not like dripping out, i mean gushing fluid until I quickly just put the cap back on. I figured it was because I had to move it recently (engine off, pushing it in neutral) I figured it just build up pressure turning the wheel with it off, similar to pushing on the brakes with the car off but just in case the two issues are related I figured I'd mention that too.

 

I posted this in my build, but figured I'd get more eyes here. I sent a sample in to Blackstone, and turns out I have minimal coolant in my oil. It's gotta be very minimal because I have no milky oil or anything, and the jeep runs pretty damn nice. It doesn't idle perfect (very light shakes her and there), but never thought anything of it

Anyway... my first guess is a tiny leak in the head gasket, but then I wonder if the head has a small crack. Is their anyway to know if it's one or the other? Any recommendations on what I can check?

*Jeep specs in signature*

 

What makes you think it has no compression? Did you do a compression check both wet and dry?

It wouldn't just "lose compression" all of a sudden as you're describing... not from just sitting for a couple of months and then changing some parts. It SOUNDS like a no-spark issue. Go back and check to ensure you've connected everything correctly, and while you're at it, pull off all the grounds connected to the walls of the engine compartment and the block itself, sand them down with sandpaper or emery cloth, spray them with electrical parts cleaner and put some dielectric grease on them before reconnecting them

Also, the power steering pump issue is not related. And as you suspected, it's because you turned the wheel with the motor off.

Do you have an inspection camera? You could pull the spark plugs and see if there's any signs of moisture on evident in the cylinder. MIGHT tell you if there's a leak in the headgasket or crack in the head if the camera is REALLY REALLY good... other than that, the only way I know of is to pull the head

 

Yeah, that seems to be what I'm coming across too. May try and pick up a camera. I'm not worried about tackling the job, I just don't have the extra time to wait for a shop to check everything out. Really hope it's not the block! I'll drop the money on a seal kit, and a head (if needed), but I'll be looking for a new XJ if the block is cracked.

 

I highly doubt it's the block. Very very uncommon. I definitely understand the hardship of your DD being down and having to count on a shop to do anything. Even if it's an extremely reputable shop with unicorns and rainbows in their recommendations, you're still looking at down time.

 

Heck if it was me I'd drop another engine in it if I needed too. Cheaper than buying another Cherokee, and easier than swapping all of my parts.

 

i have rust forming at the front of the drip rails, right at the top corners of the windshield. on top of that i noticed recently some water dripping in from the sealant onto the inner part of the windshield when it rains.

let's assume there is no welding or hole patching job to do, only grinding, painting and installing a new windshield, how much am i looking at if i get this done at a shop? just to get an idea so when i go get estimates i know what to expect.

 

I've looked at replacement engines before just for the hell of it, and I find it difficult to find a quality rebuild. Maybe it's just cause I have trust issues with shops, but for every good review, there is an equally bad review.

I'm still driving it and keeping an eye on everything. I had 5200 miles on that oil change that I took a sample on. Blackstone just recommends keeping an eye on things and keeping OCI's to about 3k (which I usually do). As soon as I get a full weekend with good weather, it'll start getting tore down.

BTW, put my old oil pressure sending unit on, and oil pressure readings are good again. Must have just gotten a crappy Mopar one.

 

Until recently, I would have scoffed at this statement. The water pump fiasco changed my thoughts on this.... by the way, the (brand new, not reman) Autozone pump that I put in has the exact same casting numbers as the MOPAR pump. Go figure.

 

Honestly I'd swap in a lower mile used engine. Well that is if I had no time to prepare. I plan to get another engine one day and build it slowly and swap them either when this one goes or when I have enough downtime to swap since it's my daily driver.

 

I guess when it rains it pours... On my lunch break I got on it from a stop, and I got this buzzing sound. Second I let of the gas it stopped, and never came back. It was a pretty significant buzz, and I THINK it's in the dash or gauge cluster (was unable to reproduce it while the jeep was parked). It almost sounds like plastic gears are getting jammed or skipping on each other. Anyone ever experienced this before, and know what it is? It didn't seem to actually affect anything.

 

You're right, when I wrote compression I meant to say combustion as in it will turn over but make no real effort to start. I have gone over all the connections and replaced my plugs again just in case. I had a couple things I was hoping to find out/test before I have to send this to and pay a professional (and accept the fact ill only be eating Ramen for a couple months). First 2 more things I noticed/ forgot about when I initially described my troubles, First mid summer before the alternator seized I was also having troubles sporadically where I would turn the key and crank for as long as I wanted (3 seconds or 30 seconds didn't matter) and it wouldn't start but the second I let off the key and tried again it would always start right up. Second I did just noticed when I'm trying to start it now gauges/ battery are fine but when i let off the key and wait a second the battery gauge will dive to 0 and check gauge light would come on (not sure if that's normal). I know I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail but is there a way to test that the injectors are still good or know that fuel is actually getting in the engine. 2 although the starter is turning over/turning the engine, is it possible it's turning slow/ going bad? 3 Can a Cherokee start without an alternator hooked up, as stated earlier I just replaced mine and was wondering if it was faulty if it might be causing my issues. I'm thinking I either dont have spark or fuel but I don't have the slightest idea why. Any last ideas would be much appreciated as I'm all out of mine own at this point.

 

Just because you have fuel at the rail doesn't mean you have adequate fuel pressure. Have you tested with a gauge?

 

Is it normal to have a gap between the distributor and the block? Replaced the mounting gasket yesterday and I had issues getting the bolt to tighten up the last 1/8" I needed so I put a thick washer on it and I noticed after tightening that there's a small gap on the opposite side of the distributor at the block. Started and ran fine no issues and I couldn't see any leaks. But it's dirty around that area so it's hard to tell.

 

I am going to buy an MJ Dana 44 if I can get a locker and rebuild kit for it. However...

So far all I can find in 44 rebuild kits are for 2002+

Also when they say Locker for Dana44 30 spline do they mean the TJ Dana 44 or the XJ/MJ Dana 44?

Also does anyone know what the differences are between the XJ/MJ Dana 44 and TJ Dana 44

Thanks