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Old May 14, 2014 | 07:29 PM
  #42691  
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Originally Posted by ksrummel
I work in a metal factory. Tool room can bore it out for me and engineers can send a print to one of our lasers to cut of a new 62mm valve. Assuming that its just a circle? Are there bolt holes or anything on it?
It's not a circle, but oblong. Has screw holes and tapered edges.
Old May 14, 2014 | 07:38 PM
  #42692  
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Originally Posted by Comanche1987
I have my new to me 1991 Cherokee 4.0. It has about 120k miles on it now, I got it with 118k. It looked like the waterpump and thermostat had been replaced. I flushed the coolant out about a week after buying it with 50/50. I took it on a few trips and it overheated, the idiot light didn't come on of course. I swapped gauge clusters with a new sending unit for the temperature. Now I can see it slowly overheat over time, as you can see in my avatar. I pulled the thermostat out today, it was a 160* failsafe in good condition, it was locked into the open position from all of the overheating. I removed the thermostat and refilled the system, its still appearing to overheat, 30 minutes of driving and already at 210*, I put some CLR to try and flush out the original metal radiator, I'll flush it out tomorrow and hopefully its just a clogged radiator.

Anybody have any advice what cured their over heating?
210 is not abnormal. Under what driving conditions do you see this? Low speed or high speed? Go get a 52028186 stat from the dealer and install it.
Old May 14, 2014 | 08:47 PM
  #42693  
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Originally Posted by Comanche1987
I have my new to me 1991 Cherokee 4.0. It has about 120k miles on it now, I got it with 118k. It looked like the waterpump and thermostat had been replaced. I flushed the coolant out about a week after buying it with 50/50. I took it on a few trips and it overheated, the idiot light didn't come on of course. I swapped gauge clusters with a new sending unit for the temperature. Now I can see it slowly overheat over time, as you can see in my avatar. I pulled the thermostat out today, it was a 160* failsafe in good condition, it was locked into the open position from all of the overheating. I removed the thermostat and refilled the system, its still appearing to overheat, 30 minutes of driving and already at 210*, I put some CLR to try and flush out the original metal radiator, I'll flush it out tomorrow and hopefully its just a clogged radiator.

Anybody have any advice what cured their over heating?

Did ya burp it?
Old May 14, 2014 | 08:49 PM
  #42694  
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
Did ya burp it?
Good man
Old May 14, 2014 | 09:35 PM
  #42695  
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
Did ya burp it?
This burping is a crock of ****.
Old May 14, 2014 | 09:35 PM
  #42696  
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learned from the best
Old May 14, 2014 | 09:36 PM
  #42697  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
This burping is a crock of ****.
Elaborate
Old May 14, 2014 | 09:48 PM
  #42698  
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The open system is self burping and here is an excerpt from the Renix service manual regarding "burping" that system.


Check this out from the FSM

This system does not have a radiator pressure cap. Instead the pressure cap is mounted on the coolant pressure bottle. System coolant flows directly through a fully pressurized Hot-Type expansion bottle. Coolant flows through the pressure bottle at all times during engine operation whether the engine is cold or at normal operating temperatures.

Larger coolant volume caused by thermal expansion during engine operation is absorbed by the expansion chamber in the bottle. Air trapped in the system is purged through the pressure cap vent valve during maximum coolant expansion..
Old May 14, 2014 | 10:10 PM
  #42699  
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Cruiser, I believe that burping isn't necessary in the intended operation of the 4.0L.

However, my YJ had severe overheating problems after replacing the radiator until I burped the system.

ITTs_Cole's XJ was overheating until we burped the system.

It works.
Old May 14, 2014 | 10:13 PM
  #42700  
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Old May 14, 2014 | 10:16 PM
  #42701  
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the endless debate
Old May 14, 2014 | 10:23 PM
  #42702  
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lol

New to you 24 year old Heep with a 160 failsafe in it, just recently sold tells me the PO had overheating, knew nothing about automotive cooling systems whatsoever so dumped it.

Since the water pump's already been replaced and you flushed everything, next suspect is the fan clutch. Probably been the fan clutch the whole time...
Old May 14, 2014 | 11:03 PM
  #42703  
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Originally Posted by ITTs_Cole
the endless debate
No debate for me. Know how many Renix Jeeps went through our shop at the dealership, and after a coolant change never required a "burp"?

I couldn't begin to count.....
Old May 14, 2014 | 11:23 PM
  #42704  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

No debate for me. Know how many Renix Jeeps went through our shop at the dealership, and after a coolant change never required a "burp"?

I couldn't begin to count.....
Could be problems due to worn components. It's been a while since you worked there, buddy. We both know cooling systems are rarely maintained.
I'm not arguing about how it's designed; I'm disagreeing with you from my experience with the way it functions.
Old May 14, 2014 | 11:25 PM
  #42705  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Could be problems due to worn components. It's been a while since you worked there, buddy. We both know cooling systems are rarely maintained.
I'm not arguing about how it's designed; I'm disagreeing with you from my experience with the way it functions.
What could be worn that involves burping?

Since the system is older, should it have uncontrollable farting?



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