They use so little power you can tap them in just about anywhere.

 

I want them to be on at night when I can't see **** because I don't have any other lights in my car lol.
With the doors closed obviously

 

[/QUOTE]I used Prestone coolant flush, CLR, cascade dish washing soap. I then flushed it about 20 times with fresh water after using all the chemicals.



As I have read on here about our XJ's the coolant system used is not sufficient to cool our 4.0's as good as they should. When working at 100% they work great but even minor changes/deterioration can cause overheating problems. I would not be surprised if the grill blockage caused over heating, I would also see that as a sign to keep a close eye on the temperature gauge and coolant level. I've taken mine to 240 degrees a few times and shes still holding together, but it comes down to luck. Over heating can cause head gaskets to crack, heads to warp or crack.

(Cheapest good tester on amazon)

(I am not a fan of Scotty's how to videos but it is the best one I can find)

easy way to determine if you have damaged anything major.

 

Yours should be 5/8".

 

What amount of fuel pressure does the 703 injectors push out at maximum spray? What's the most I can push through them using an inline pump? I have a 91 HO 4.0 motor using the bored tb, 99 model intake and tb spacer. I know there's an injector professional on here but I can't remember his user name to pm him.

 

programbo is the injector guy

 

And the spacer is a waste.

 

I know it. It's on now and I am to lazy to remove it. Haha.

 

Thanx pal.

 

Should i be able to rotate the drag link or tie rod with my hands? 87 cherokee. If not im thinking thats why i have death wobble

 

Yes, it is normal for the drag link and tie rod to rotate freely a few degrees. Otherwise the TREs would be seized.

Lateral movement is abnormal.

 

so it rolling front to back is normal..hmm i was really hoping that was the problem.

 

If there is an O'reillys Auto parts store close to you they rent the exact same kit to you for $32 and you have 48hrs to use it or you keep it for $32. Which is the cheapest iv found. You do also have to buy a bottle of the fluid for the tester which they also sell for $7 and the bottle could probably do 15 vehicles atleast.

 

So the job can be done without removing the OFA but just remove tube on the adapter? Every write up I see it says take the OFA off but ain't nobody got time for that. Figured I'd be less work the other way And not so dirty!

 

I have a 1999 jeep cherokee with that shakes. I have gone through balancing by tires and that fixed a lot of the problem but it is still there partly, so I continued in looking at all my ball joints. I found I have a bad joint at the top of my track bar, at the connection of the tie rod and drag link, and at the end of the tie rod.

I have been looking around for new joints and found uppers and lowers. Which ones are the correct ones for the bad joints I have, and does anybody have suggestions on a good brand.