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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:06 AM
  #43411  
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We are SO sick of seeing you here on this thread EVERY week. BIG grin!!!


IAC ohms test:
Pins- A B C D (in this connector order)
A to D B to C = 40 to 80 ohms
A to B C to D = open meter reading
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:19 AM
  #43412  
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
We are SO sick of seeing you here on this thread EVERY week. BIG grin!!!


IAC ohms test:
Pins- A B C D (in this connector order)
A to D B to C = 40 to 80 ohms
A to B C to D = open meter reading
Haha, right on. Thank you. I have been meaning to get a multi-meter, I'll grab one today.
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:25 AM
  #43413  
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A multi-meter is your friend.
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 01:08 PM
  #43414  
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Originally Posted by XJlimitedx99
Can somebody explain to me the difference between u joints? I have a 99 XJ without abs and just replaced my u joint with a 371 moog joint but now I need to buy a new outer axle stub and a lot of them say they're for the 760x u joints. Not sure what I need to buy...
Well, different companies have different model numbers lol.

I assume we're talking about the front axle U joints here. Spicer has superceded the 297x with the 760x, which is much stronger. 260x is a very small size used prior to about 1995 or 1996.

Moog 371 is a clone of the Spicer 297x U joint, which was OE on your 1999 D30.
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 02:16 PM
  #43415  
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Probably been asked a thousand times but I'm at a place where cell reception is really slow...

Swapping out my buddy's u-joints on the front hubs of his TJ. Took a break and went to scrounge around under my XJ. Noticed a little play in the front driveshaft going to my D30. Is this acceptable/safe? I have to drive a few hours on Saturday to pick my little girl up at an airport for the summer. If this is bad, I need to fix ASAP. Thanks guys.
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 02:36 PM
  #43416  
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Originally Posted by loganzillmer
I know your probably sick of seeing me on this thread every week but I keep getting new issues.

I've got a rough start when totally cold and a low idle (500rpm). I have already cleaned the TB and IAC. Any other suggestions?
ha I feel like I'm always here too..
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 02:39 PM
  #43417  
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
ha I feel like I'm always here too..
Yeah. You two are really chapping our hide.......LOL.
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 03:26 PM
  #43418  
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Originally Posted by Dirt Diver
Probably been asked a thousand times but I'm at a place where cell reception is really slow...

Swapping out my buddy's u-joints on the front hubs of his TJ. Took a break and went to scrounge around under my XJ. Noticed a little play in the front driveshaft going to my D30. Is this acceptable/safe? I have to drive a few hours on Saturday to pick my little girl up at an airport for the summer. If this is bad, I need to fix ASAP. Thanks guys.
Play rotationally is fine, side to side, up or down is no bueno
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 03:48 PM
  #43419  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Yeah. You two are really chapping our hide.......LOL.
I will buy anyone who needs some a tube of ointment. Whoever answers this one gets a tube for free!

Could this grommet/breather be the cause of my very slow oil leak? It looks like crap.



oily valve cover. There doesn't appear to be any noticeable amount of oil below the valve cover so I think I can rule out that as the cause.

Old Jun 10, 2014 | 04:37 PM
  #43420  
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
I will buy anyone who needs some a tube of ointment. Whoever answers this one gets a tube for free!

Could this grommet/breather be the cause of my very slow oil leak? It looks like crap.
Well I don't need the ointment, but yes that can cause a tiiiny but of a leak... slightly...

Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
oily valve cover. There doesn't appear to be any noticeable amount of oil below the valve cover so I think I can rule out that as the cause.
This is much more likely. The valve cover is sitting on top of the head. Oil that leaks out of it creeps around the edges, up the grommets, and onto the nuts & studs. The stuff that leaks down the head gets baked off because, well, it's the head and it gets hot lol.

Leaking valve cover #1 source of mess like that. Get yourself a Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus. Reusable, comes with all the hardware. No BS.
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 07:31 PM
  #43421  
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Originally Posted by salad

Well I don't need the ointment, but yes that can cause a tiiiny but of a leak... slightly...

This is much more likely. The valve cover is sitting on top of the head. Oil that leaks out of it creeps around the edges, up the grommets, and onto the nuts & studs. The stuff that leaks down the head gets baked off because, well, it's the head and it gets hot lol.

Leaking valve cover #1 source of mess like that. Get yourself a Fel-Pro PermaDry Plus. Reusable, comes with all the hardware. No BS.
X2 ↑↑↑↑ Clean and paint it while your in there!
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Old Jun 10, 2014 | 08:38 PM
  #43422  
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Originally Posted by salad
Well, different companies have different model numbers lol. I assume we're talking about the front axle U joints here. Spicer has superceded the 297x with the 760x, which is much stronger. 260x is a very small size used prior to about 1995 or 1996. Moog 371 is a clone of the Spicer 297x U joint, which was OE on your 1999 D30.
I see, said the blind man..

Thanks for the clarification!
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 09:24 PM
  #43423  
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Originally Posted by JerrytheJeep
Play rotationally is fine, side to side, up or down is no bueno
Thanks. Ya, just very little play rotationally. Solid otherwise.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 12:11 AM
  #43424  
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Originally Posted by Dirt Diver

Thanks. Ya, just very little play rotationally. Solid otherwise.
Yer fine.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 06:17 AM
  #43425  
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Anyone have any insight on this problem: Yesterday I was driving at my jeep's normal temp (just over 210) and randomly my jeep rapidly shot up to past 260. This spike caused my coolant to boil, I shut the engine off, waited untill it cooled down, put more coolant in, and started it again, and everything was normal? What would cause that?



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