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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Sep 23, 2015 | 10:10 AM
  #51226  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Are you using Crown or Omix-ADA bushings? that would be the problem. Use genuine Clevite, should be stamped in rubber.

I switched from skyjacker leafs with rubber bushings, to BDS 7 leaf with poly bushings. The poly bushings have less 'squirm' and are supposed to reduce body roll and reduce lean when driving off-camber.
I like the more stable feel, but on rough pavement or washboard roads, more of it is transmitted into chassis.

fyi, Most aftermarket shackles have poly bushings. I ended up with Clayton shackles that use an oversize Clevite rubber bushing (have to clearance bumper bolts to fit).
Yea my aftermarket shackles are poly. Last so much longer. I've used rubber bushingns from crown, omix and a few others. I may try the poly bushings from quadratec. The greasable ones. See how she handles. Need to change existing ones anyways
Old Sep 23, 2015 | 03:07 PM
  #51227  
ehall's Avatar
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From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
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Rubber clevite bushings are designed so that the inner sleeve is immobilized by the bolt and the rubber twists around as needed then returns to resting position. They have to be torqued at normal ride stance (and torqued again periodically as the ride settles), otherwise they will be under constant stress and fail quickly. Poly bushings are designed to turn around the sleeve.
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 06:58 AM
  #51228  
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Unhappy 99 Jeep Grand Cherokee stalls while driving

The jeep is 8cyl and I live in Florida so heat index is always up there. While driving down the road at 45 mph the thing stalls for no reason! Just powers off with no warning plus no check engine light or other warnings. Then it will start anywhere from 1-2 minutes later & was 5 or more the other day. Sometimes it stalls at light too but it doesn't discriminate! Fuel pump replaced & injector cleaner is what mechanic suggested since it is at 187K miles but nope still doing it!

So I took it to where they could run diagnostics for codes etc. $100 & nothing! Told my mechanic about Googling cam shaft or crank shaft sensors. He says no the jeep wouldn't crank if those were bad. He thinks it might be PCM but I am gun shy after spending already $500 & the PCM is not cheap.

Last edited by Lainey; Sep 24, 2015 at 07:10 AM.
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 07:05 AM
  #51229  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
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Originally Posted by Lainey
Ok honestly my guy knows nothing about cars & I know enough to keep me from getting screwed normally (father was mechanic). But I have no clue what to do. The jeep is 8cyl and live in Florida. I had fuel pump replaced, injector cleaner used although mechanic said they look good. While driving down the road at 45 mph the thing stalls for no reason! Just powers off with no warning plus no check engine light or other warnings. Then it will start anywhere from 1
-2 minutes later & was 5 or more the other day.

Fuel pump didn't fix so took it to where they could run for codes etc. $100 & nothing! Told my mechanic about Googling cam shaft or crank shaft sensors. He says no the jeep wouldn't crank if those were bad. He thinks it might be PCM but I am gun shy after spending already $500 & the PCM is not cheap.
...iirc the jeep would crank but not fire with a bad CPS. But you having a V8, I'm not too familiar with that setup as the I6. You can jump over the the GC section where you'll be a little bit easily helped.
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 07:37 AM
  #51230  
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
...iirc the jeep would crank but not fire with a bad CPS. But you having a V8, I'm not too familiar with that setup as the I6. You can jump over the the GC section where you'll be a little bit easily helped.
Thanks will try that!
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 07:54 AM
  #51231  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
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Originally Posted by Lainey
Thanks will try that!
Also, do a search (google) on testing the CPS. There's write ups for using a meter to test I. Again, double check because I'm not familiar with GCs but I'm trying to push you in the right direction
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 08:48 AM
  #51232  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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So I attempted to remove what I thought was some simple surface rust and discovered the worst thing possible... Any idea how I should attack this? It seems to be rusting from the inside out.
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Old Sep 24, 2015 | 08:57 AM
  #51233  
sycoglitch's Avatar
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From: Mercer County, NJ
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
So I attempted to remove what I thought was some simple surface rust and discovered the worst thing possible... Any idea how I should attack this? It seems to be rusting from the inside out.
That may beyond bondo. Can't wait to see peoples response. May need to cut and put back new sheet metal
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 09:05 AM
  #51234  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
That may beyond bondo. Can't wait to see peoples response. May need to cut and put back new sheet metal
I was worried about that but I feel like if I can force enough bondo into the holes it will fill in the small space behind them and have plenty of support. That still wouldn't solve the rust issue though unfortunately.
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 09:16 AM
  #51235  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
I was worried about that but I feel like if I can force enough bondo into the holes it will fill in the small space behind them and have plenty of support. That still wouldn't solve the rust issue though unfortunately.
My drivers door is starting to look the same way, not as holy, and eventually I gonna be in the same boat.
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 09:34 AM
  #51236  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 99stomperXJ
I'm not certain to be honest, it came, I was hoping that was the problem I installed it no change good or bad...
do u still have receipts or boxes it came in? Because if it's Airtex, you probably would need to replace it again
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 09:58 AM
  #51237  
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From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
So I attempted to remove what I thought was some simple surface rust and discovered the worst thing possible... Any idea how I should attack this? It seems to be rusting from the inside out.
Is that the door? If so, usually cheapest and fastest just to replace the whole thing.

Otherwise cut it out, cut a piece a of sheetmetal a little larger, drill some holes in both pieces, and fish it in there. You can epoxy or weld, as needed. Then fill it and sand it and paint it
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 10:23 AM
  #51238  
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From: Fayetteville, NC
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Looking to replace my driving lights (fogs). I should be looking for 55w or under with stock wiring correct? Would I benefit from doing the "headlight wiring upgrade" on the driving lights? Any good suggestions?

Last edited by crabmushrooms5; Sep 24, 2015 at 11:10 AM. Reason: Isolate the driving light switch?
Old Sep 24, 2015 | 11:30 AM
  #51239  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by crabmushrooms5
Looking to replace my driving lights (fogs). I should be looking for 55w or under with stock wiring correct? Would I benefit from doing the "headlight wiring upgrade" on the driving lights? Any good suggestions?
yes u will, in fact the harness should be one of first things u do when u get a XJ
Old Sep 25, 2015 | 08:19 AM
  #51240  
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From: Chatham NY
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by ehall
Otherwise cut it out, cut a piece a of sheetmetal a little larger, drill some holes in both pieces, and fish it in there. You can epoxy or weld, as needed. Then fill it and sand it and paint it
I have a similar issue (I was going to post, but since this is so fresh, I'll just ask you here) just with my quarter panel -- about the size of a dollar (already cut it out) -- and hidden behind plastic bumper end covers.

Any suggestion for sheet metal to repair it? Aluminum or Steel? Gauge? Does it really matter? I don't have a welder, so it would have to be riveted in place or I would have to use J.B. Weld or Epoxy



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