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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Actually, they look like they're tightened just right. Wouldn't change a thing.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
If the clutch fan is working properly, and the radiator isn't clogged, you don't even need the electric fan. Some XJs didn't come with one.
If your fan clutch is original, I'd replace it no matter what. If you don't have a fan shroud, installing one will help significantly. If your cooling system as a while is original, it would probably benefit greatly from an overhaul. Even the hoses wear out over time
X2 on this advice - I added a fan shroud to my mechanical fan and now my e-fan hardly ever comes on... unless I'm behind someone in a drivethrough line in the middle of summer with my ac on... then it's full bore
Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
yea, they work fine, already check that, any other advice?
Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
fixed it! Turns out the fuse on the right is what was plugged in so I put the fuse on the left in and boom, it works.
Glad you fixed it... which fuse was it? I was actually going to suggest you check the power door lock fuse and the cig lighter fuse because if I remember correclty, one of those was on the same circuit.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Woody has to throw R/C out of the Jeep to save Buzz. The other toys will think he's a murderer and throw him out, too. He'll ride R/C up the street with Scud chasing them, until he lights the rocket tapped to Buzz. They'll fly up, Woody will let go of R/C so he flies into the back, but wait.. I just lit a rocket. Rockets EXPLODE!!! Activate Buzz's wings. He's FLYING! No, he's not flying. He's falling... with style.
In the end, they'll land safely next to Andy. See? They were right there all along.
lol... love that movie
Originally Posted by ehall
Its possible that they swapped the front clip due to a wreck or something
Take a look at the hatch, if its fiberglass its 96-down, if its metal its 97-up, no mix-match is possible
Take a closer look at the doors... the front glass is the split-window style. So not only would they have had to change the entire front clip, they would have had to change the doors as well. I think if was a try 97 they'd be stuck with the steal hatch though. Kinda hard to get around that rounded hatch opening around the taillights.
Okay so tomorrow I'm going to look at what someone claims on thier life is a 97 xj Classic but it's the old school body style. Is this possible?
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
'96, maybe. You can swap the fenders, doors, flares, front clip, and even the interior if you're committed... but the taillights don't like on XJs. Check those, and you have your answer.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
'96 was a bastard year for the Cherokee with the implementation of OBD-II. Halfway through the year, production was shifted from the older engine sensors to the new "1997" sensors. Body style, however never crossed the generation gap.
On the outside, anyway Dude I bought my Detours Backbone off of had a very late build '96.
Under the hood, you'd swear it was a 1997 build. Returnless fuel rail, newer PDC, no HCV. The left inner fender even had the holes for the '97+ washer tank location, which I had never seen on an early model XJ before, although the washer tank was in the old location. Of course since the interior was that stupid '96-only junk there was a probe in the back of the head to feed the temp gauge.
The outside was the same iconic old style.
I've seen three different types of '96 XJs, and that's a big reason why I would never buy one. They're random assortments of parts... wouldn't be surprised if there were Wrangler or Grand bits in 'em.
The new body and interior was a HUGE deal for Chrysler. What that guy probably has is a late-build '96. Pop the hood and take a look!
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Chrysler simply adjust the model year to match body style, without regard for production date. For example, no 1996 Wranglers were ever produced, but ChryCo did produce 1995 YJs and 1997 TJs in calender year 1996.
Weeelll, it's not QUITE that fascinating. 1997 model year began in mid-96, anyway. The '95 YJ just lived longer
On the outside, anyway Dude I bought my Detours Backbone off of had a very late build '96.
Under the hood, you'd swear it was a 1997 build. Returnless fuel rail, newer PDC, no HCV. The left inner fender even had the holes for the '97+ washer tank location, which I had never seen on an early model XJ before, although the washer tank was in the old location. Of course since the interior was that stupid '96-only junk there was a probe in the back of the head to feed the temp gauge.
The outside was the same iconic old style.
I've seen three different types of '96 XJs, and that's a big reason why I would never buy one. They're random assortments of parts... wouldn't be surprised if there were Wrangler or Grand bits in 'em.
The new body and interior was a HUGE deal for Chrysler. What that guy probably has is a late-build '96. Pop the hood and take a look!Weeelll, it's not QUITE that fascinating. 1997 model year began in mid-96, anyway. The '95 YJ just lived longer
You have a detours? Interesting.
Anyway I have seen windshield tanks inside the left fenders on 96's that were original to the jeep so they had holes even back then
Bushings are vulcanized to a 'can', then can is pressed into arms.
It is easier and not much more in cost to replace the entire stock arm. Especially if yours are rusty/corroded, the metal is thin.
This is my next project. Thanks for confirming my suspicion that the extra twenry bucks for the new arms are a prudent investment.
Hey guys. Weird problem going on here and I'd love to hear your thoughts on trouble shooting.
99 Cherokee Sport, 4.0, 4x4, 155,xxx miles, Auto
Replaced the starter last week (Napa) and had been running fine - although every time I started the Jeep the starter would make that loud scratching sound like I was trying to turn on the Jeep while it was running. Then yesterday as soon as I turned the key over, I started to get gauges coming on then all of the sudden nothing. No gauges, no crank. So I read a thread that indicated the starter motor relay fuse (fuse 19 inside) might be blown so I pulled it and it looked fine. I put it back in and tried the key again and I got my gauges on for a moment! But the second I went to crank the motor I lost everything again.
Again, the Jeep ran fine for about a week after the starter was replaced and then all of the sudden this issue came up. Any thoughts?
Did mine my self, no problems except right lower side when I went to put it back in, had to jack front axles up to get the bolt back in. Just be careful when you beat the old bushings out that you don't flatten the arm, use a spacer, block of wood worked for me,
Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Bushings are vulcanized to a 'can', then can is pressed into arms.
It is easier and not much more in cost to replace the entire stock arm. Especially if yours are rusty/corroded, the metal is thin.
Ok - I'm not opposed to new stock arms, even though mine have lived in the desert for the entirety of their lives - no rust Thanks for the input!
Next stupid question. And I know the steering stabilizer DOESN'T cure death wobble. But, could a shot SS allow a minor shimmy at a particular driving speed? My SS is drenched in dirty oil, surrounded by clean E-coat parts. So I think it's gone. The steering wheel wiggle doesn't 100% seem like death wiggle either, as it is only in a specific speed range and doesn't get worse. Sometimes starts on a bump at that speed, but most often than not starts on smooth sailing pavement, too.
I can say this a thousand times, and people will still disagree, but they're wrong.
If a steering stabilizer is helping you with any problem--any problem at all--it is only masking the symptoms. They exist to prevent the wheel from jerking when you go over a bump. Any shimmies, shakes, wobbles, or any other motion are the result of worn out components or unbalanced tires.
I can say this a thousand times, and people will still disagree, but they're wrong.
If a steering stabilizer is helping you with any problem--any problem at all--it is only masking the symptoms. They exist to prevent the wheel from jerking when you go over a bump. Any shimmies, shakes, wobbles, or any other motion are the result of worn out components or unbalanced tires.
OKAY SO IT WAS A 96 got it to start ideals fine and when you baby the pedal she's good but if get on it at all it Boggs down and backfires like crazy! Any ideas on whit it is? I'm paying 500 cash for her
OKAY SO IT WAS A 96 got it to start ideals fine and when you baby the pedal she's good but if get on it at all it Boggs down and backfires like crazy! Any ideas on whit it is? I'm paying 500 cash for her
My first thought runs toward a clogged or damaged catalytic converter... Seen lots of folks that have them, can't figure it out or don't want to pay to replace them so they dump the vehicle for cheap.
Looks pretty straight though... I'd buy it for that, even just to have a parts jeep.
My first thought runs toward a clogged or damaged catalytic converter... Seen lots of folks that have them, can't figure it out or don't want to pay to replace them so they dump the vehicle for cheap.
Looks pretty straight though... I'd buy it for that, even just to have a parts jeep.
I mean this thing sounded like a machine gun when I stomped it could it really just be the ct?
I mean this thing sounded like a machine gun when I stomped it could it really just be the ct?
It could certainly be something else entirely, I'm just thinking along the lines of the stuff I've seen cause people to suddenly stop driving a car and unload it. Figuring this stuff out is half the fun and challenge of owning a vintage jeep! They're like noisy, driveable Rubik's cubes... Immensely satisfying to get one sorted out, but then you get to mess it all up again in the name of modification.
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
Dude I bought my Detours Backbone off of had a very late build '96. 
got it to start ideals fine and when you baby the pedal she's good but if get on it at all it Boggs down and backfires like crazy! Any ideas on whit it is? I'm paying 500 cash for her 
