I had my front differential pinion seal replaced about 2-3 months ago because I hit a rock on my diff and it started leaking.

Now since then, I've gone trailing once and my differential did not make contact with anything and all seemed to be fine.

But today when putting it in 4x4, it felt kinda weird and when I checked under, a leak was clearly visible, at the same place as before.

Is that something I should expect? I mean it sucks to have to spend money again for something I just fixed. For now I won't do anything because I don't need 4x4, but I'm still pretty upset.

Thanks!

 

p.399 of the parts PDF catalog

Throttle Controls 2.5L (EPE), 4.0L (ERH) Engine
Figure 014-720

CABLE, Accelerator

#5207 9504

http://www.quadratec.com/products/51300_16.htm

 

I'm blocking the driveway. Trans line leaking/shot . Have no atf, can I put old engine oil in the aw4 for 49 hrs?

 

No... transmission fluid is hydraulic oil which is completely different from motor oil

You will ruin your transmission and it wouldn't make it work anyway.

 

Does anyone know the tools needed to change the water pump on 2000 jeep Cherokee it just went out I drove the belt fell off the pulley is movable n it overheated I shut it off, I need it replaced ASAP I'm Gunna borrow tools so it would nice if someone knows the tools I need

 

Much thanks Basslicks.....In a real bind I put a quart of used Castrol 30W in my AW4, and drove 130-150 feet over the hill, then cut it to coast to the casa to drain and refill after the blown line is repaired. It did work! It Did go! (felt "slippery".) Neighbor /tenant needs to be able to go to work in the AM, so I needed to move it. Since I've never changed the fluid in 112 years, guess it's time now!

 

I have an automatic transmission 1999 Cherokee that I purchased recently from a private seller. It runs very well, except...

When I start it up, a cold start I guess, after it's been sitting for a while, it idles very roughly and occasionally the engine will rev up. If I let it warm up for about 5 minutes in the driveway, it goes perfectly. But if I just get in and go, it feels like the car is pulling and pulling trying to get going, then I'll hear a pop! and it will rev up and pull back again. On a bad morning it's hard to get going well enough for it to shift into second. But finally, it will jump one or two final times, and shift on into second and third gears and drive beautifully.

I just got rid of a manual transmission 97 Cherokee that my family bought new, and in the last few years of its life it did a similar thing, only very very randomly, in the middle of driving.
This 99 only does it when it's getting started.

Help. One person said it could be an 02 sensor, but nothing seems to be triggering the Check Engine light or throwing any codes on the reader at Advanced Auto. Another buddy suggested an overall tune-up. Helped only a little, but the problem definitely still exists.
Any ideas??

 

I second the O2 sensor suggestion. Had my wife's 98 doing the same thing. O2 sensor fixed it right up.

Have you tried reading the codes?

 

The durango box was over twice as much and this is still a budget build for now. The only difference in the specs was 2.5 turns to lock instead of 3.5 so why not? Maybe if I ever get this baby lifted it would need a tougher box but that could be years off with this economy, if ever.

 

Hi Guys,

I just purchased a 99 4x4, 2 door sport, one owner cream puff as my second Cherokee and I have a question about what the previous owner did to her. He brought her to a jeep shop some years ago and had (so said) dealer parts installed to lift her. THe part number I have are MOME934 ZJfront springs and MOMEJC1B Rearleaf springs. From the info I've been able to find here..(you guys are amazing) it looks like these are Jeep ZJ (i.e. V8 Grand Cherokee) springs. Can anybody verify that what these are from the part numbers and...MOST importantly...how much lift should these have given me? I can see she sits higher than stock, but I'm looking to put new shoes on her and I want to go as big as I can with her the way she is for now.

Thanks in advance, guys!

 

Googled the numbers. Old Man Emu.

 

Kinda random, what all will I need to remove the knuckles and brake calipers from a WJ at pull a part?

 

Something you won't have. Or something you forget to bring. That's how it works for me.

 

Yep lol. Exactly what I'm trying to avoid. Basic metric sizes and a hammer? Breaker bar?

 

It's just like an XJ Dana 30. A standard set of wrenches and sockets and the trust ole 13mm 12pt box end wrench.

Going back to wanting to do the WJ swap now?