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Old May 24, 2014 | 11:39 AM
  #42976  
94XjSport94's Avatar
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Is it a factory switch or something you added?

The lights are getting 12 volts and a ground. Thats why they work.
Old May 24, 2014 | 11:47 AM
  #42977  
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
Is it a factory switch or something you added?

The lights are getting 12 volts and a ground. Thats why they work.
I just added them, knock off KC lights. I just need the power to stop going to them when I turn the key off so my battery doesnt die. I wired it all straight to the battery.
Old May 24, 2014 | 11:52 AM
  #42978  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94
^ I have never put marks on mine to install it the same way it came out.
That only matters if you have a driveshaft with a yoke on each end and one is a slip-yoke. You must keep them in phase and in balance.
Old May 24, 2014 | 11:55 AM
  #42979  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by XJhavesexJ
I just added them, knock off KC lights. I just need the power to stop going to them when I turn the key off so my battery doesnt die. I wired it all straight to the battery.
Then turn the switch off..?

Take the wire off the battery, buy a 40amp relay, wire the relay in correctly. Find a circuit from your fuse box that is switched 12v and make that your signal wire to the relay. The relay will need 12v constant (can be from a switched source, a 12v switched signal (look in your fuse box), a ground, and an output leg to the lights.

Google how to wire lights. There are plenty of youtube videos.
Old May 24, 2014 | 11:56 AM
  #42980  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by XJhavesexJ

I just added them, knock off KC lights. I just need the power to stop going to them when I turn the key off so my battery doesnt die. I wired it all straight to the battery.
Thats why you are still getting power to the switch. You should wire the lighting through a relay and an acc Power source for the switch.
Old May 24, 2014 | 11:58 AM
  #42981  
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From: Wetumpka, AL
Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by drhoward1988

Thats why you are still getting power to the switch. You should wire the lighting through a relay and an acc Power source for the switch.


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Old May 24, 2014 | 12:21 PM
  #42982  
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From: Justin, TEXAS
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

From these patterns, pinion depth looks ok, but that will change once you carrier shims move around. Needs to be more centered in the toe and heel.

Looks like the drive side is just making contact with the top of the pinion tooth, needs to be a flatter contact area like your coast side.

This chart came in my Yukon install kits.

I think you are in the pinion too shallow area.
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4...atternsqd6.jpg
Okay so I think I'll put one more shim on the pinion and push the carrier over a shim or two away from the pinion.
You think another pinion shim will flatten the drive side tooth contact a bit?
Old May 24, 2014 | 12:36 PM
  #42983  
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Ohhhhh ok, it just made sense. I ended up running the relay straight to the battery and the switch to the fuse on my fusebox that was labeled "auxilerry lights/fog lights/etc" and now it works just fine. Thanks guys.
Old May 24, 2014 | 12:45 PM
  #42984  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
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Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
That only matters if you have a driveshaft with a yoke on each end and one is a slip-yoke. You must keep them in phase and in balance.
Like on what?

Originally Posted by 884x4
Okay so I think I'll put one more shim on the pinion and push the carrier over a shim or two away from the pinion.
You think another pinion shim will flatten the drive side tooth contact a bit?
You know the shims are different thicknesses, right?

Last edited by 94XjSport94; May 24, 2014 at 01:06 PM.
Old May 24, 2014 | 01:02 PM
  #42985  
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From: Justin, TEXAS
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by 94XjSport94

You know the shims are different thicknesses, right?
Lol, yeah
Old May 24, 2014 | 04:56 PM
  #42986  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Where do I buy new fuel injector O rings for a 88 4.0l Cherokee?

Should I buy them from o riellys?
Old May 24, 2014 | 05:01 PM
  #42987  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Sure, why not? My NAPA Echlin fuel injector O rings were crap.
Old May 24, 2014 | 05:26 PM
  #42988  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
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Nates 4x4 extended bumper or Nates4x4 regular bumper?
Old May 24, 2014 | 06:28 PM
  #42989  
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From: Spring Branch, Tx.
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l I6
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96 xj aw4. I'm wanting to do the basic fluid change without dropping the pan but I've read if you mix the dex/merc and atf+4 it could be bad and I don't know what the PO used. I believe he used wally world (tires are from there) for service and from searching seems a lot of places will tell you to use the atf+4 (thanks CF for the right info ). I don't seem to have any slipping issues, although I did experience the slips in drive but not if I start in 1/2 (which from searching seems to be a tps issue that makes it go into limp mode). Any way to tell which atf is in there or do I just hope he used the dex/merc and proceed with the basic fluid change? Thx in advance.
Old May 24, 2014 | 06:51 PM
  #42990  
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From: Canton, MI
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Where do I buy new fuel injector O rings for a 88 4.0l Cherokee?

Should I buy them from o riellys?
Get Felro o-rings. I've never had a problem with them.

But wait...maybe no one makes o-rings for antique engines....



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