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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 01:01 PM
  #35626  
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From: Aberdeen, MD
Year: 1995
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Engine: 4.0L HO I-6, 703 Injectors, Brown Dog Super Engine Mounts
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Yup booster is leaking
Old Sep 24, 2013 | 01:07 PM
  #35627  
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From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
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My brakes work fine
Old Sep 24, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #35628  
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From: The Florida State University
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by cf1k1
Put in adj trac bar. Creeks on body side when I turn left or right. Torqued it down. Too losse or too tight?
Bueller. Bueller. Bueller. Ferris Bueller.
Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:11 PM
  #35629  
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Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by cf1k1

Bueller. Bueller. Bueller. Ferris Bueller.
Too loose. Tighten that **** ridiculously.
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 06:28 AM
  #35630  
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Originally Posted by a_shirey
Too loose. Tighten that **** ridiculously.
$725 with taxes and labor to replace the whole HVAC system minus heater core. The prices I can remember, $200 for compressor with clutch, $240 for labor, 70 for freon or oil (idr), 20 for freon/oil (idr), then disposal fees, then 70 for a new condenser. There was other stuff I can't remember exactly. Getting a second quote but I feel it'll be in the same ball park. What do y'all think?
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 06:52 AM
  #35631  
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From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
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Originally Posted by cf1k1
$725 with taxes and labor to replace the whole HVAC system minus heater core. The prices I can remember, $200 for compressor with clutch, $240 for labor, 70 for freon or oil (idr), 20 for freon/oil (idr), then disposal fees, then 70 for a new condenser. There was other stuff I can't remember exactly. Getting a second quote but I feel it'll be in the same ball park. What do y'all think?
Doorless, like $20.

I have a compressor of my 98 if you can use it. $50 to your door bud. That sounds reasonable for a whole replacement.
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 06:55 AM
  #35632  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
Year: 1993
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by cf1k1
$725 with taxes and labor to replace the whole HVAC system minus heater core. The prices I can remember, $200 for compressor with clutch, $240 for labor, 70 for freon or oil (idr), 20 for freon/oil (idr), then disposal fees, then 70 for a new condenser. There was other stuff I can't remember exactly. Getting a second quote but I feel it'll be in the same ball park. What do y'all think?
Replace all that stuff yourself and then have the shop charge the system for 100 bucks and be done. That'll save ya $250 right there.

There's nothing to swapping the parts.

Why were you told you need all that stuff new anyways? Is the compressor bad? Is the condenser leaking?
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 07:04 AM
  #35633  
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Originally Posted by Lowrange2
Replace all that stuff yourself and then have the shop charge the system for 100 bucks and be done. That'll save ya $250 right there.

There's nothing to swapping the parts.

Why were you told you need all that stuff new anyways? Is the compressor bad? Is the condenser leaking?
Compressor is bad. Clicking and vibrating. Makes the whole motor shake.
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 07:19 AM
  #35634  
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From: +34° 25' 35.67", -81° 21' 12.04"
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Originally Posted by cf1k1
Compressor is bad. Clicking and vibrating. Makes the whole motor shake.
Then there ya go. Unbolt the old one, bolt up a new one, take it to the shop and have them charge the system. Done.

Buy Will's compressor.
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 12:17 PM
  #35635  
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From: Rochester, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
Default First XJ...Tie Rod Problem?

So I'm picking up my first XJ tomorrow. 98 Classic 4x4, all the normal. It has a 4.5" RC lift and is on 31's. I'm wondering if it needs new tie rod ends though. The two front tires are very warn on the outer edges, so I'm getting an alignment done when I pick it up. I wonder about the tie rods though because when I test drove it it took a lot of turning to get it to make a turn in either direction. No bad shimmy, or shakes. I couldn't jack it up to check tire wiggle.
I've called a few shops to get some estimates and a couple were not sure what I really needed, something about upper and lower tie rods.
What am I looking at for tie rods? Are they like every other vehicle? Inner and outer or do XJ's run something different and unique?

Please help I need to know how much I'm looking at so I don't get ripped off at a shop.
Also, NO I can't replace them myself. I have to pick it up from the guy and drive it back home where I can work on it. That's about an hr drive and I'm having new tires put on so I don't want to ruin them on the drive home just to do the labor myself. I'm getting the alignment done so I know it's a safe ride home, so if I need tie rods I might as well just get them done.
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 12:26 PM
  #35636  
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From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
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Originally Posted by ch45x7
So I'm picking up my first XJ tomorrow. 98 Classic 4x4, all the normal. It has a 4.5" RC lift and is on 31's. I'm wondering if it needs new tie rod ends though. The two front tires are very warn on the outer edges, so I'm getting an alignment done when I pick it up. I wonder about the tie rods though because when I test drove it it took a lot of turning to get it to make a turn in either direction. No bad shimmy, or shakes. I couldn't jack it up to check tire wiggle.
I've called a few shops to get some estimates and a couple were not sure what I really needed, something about upper and lower tie rods.
What am I looking at for tie rods? Are they like every other vehicle? Inner and outer or do XJ's run something different and unique?

Please help I need to know how much I'm looking at so I don't get ripped off at a shop.
Also, NO I can't replace them myself. I have to pick it up from the guy and drive it back home where I can work on it. That's about an hr drive and I'm having new tires put on so I don't want to ruin them on the drive home just to do the labor myself. I'm getting the alignment done so I know it's a safe ride home, so if I need tie rods I might as well just get them done.
When you looked at the vehicle. Did it have a new or stock tie rod. Same with track bar??? may just need grease and alignment.
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 12:37 PM
  #35637  
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From: Rochester, NY
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
When you looked at the vehicle. Did it have a new or stock tie rod. Same with track bar??? may just need grease and alignment.
I honestly didn't notice. I figured it would just need the alignment due to tire wear and loose steering. Then I researched more and found that it might be a tie rod problem. Most shops have said about $375-475 to replace tie rod ends and alignment done, which is not bad. A couple of shops made me nervous though because they were asking about upper and lower, short or long?
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #35638  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ch45x7
I honestly didn't notice. I figured it would just need the alignment due to tire wear and loose steering. Then I researched more and found that it might be a tie rod problem. Most shops have said about $375-475 to replace tie rod ends and alignment done, which is not bad. A couple of shops made me nervous though because they were asking about upper and lower, short or long?
That's not a bad price including parts, tie rod replacement, and an alignment. Very reasonable.

Here's a picture of the stock front end. Not pictures is a Tie Rod End on the driver's side.



Sounds like the guy lifted it and didn't pay any attention to steering. You can probably get by with the stock style setup) though if you're having a shop replace bits just go with the parts for a V8 ZJ (Grand Cherokee, 1994-1998). One-ton steering is cool but I doubt you can get that delivered as fast
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 01:51 PM
  #35639  
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From: Rochester, NY
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by salad
That's not a bad price including parts, tie rod replacement, and an alignment. Very reasonable.

Here's a picture of the stock front end. Not pictures is a Tie Rod End on the driver's side.

*pic deleted for repost to save space*

Sounds like the guy lifted it and didn't pay any attention to steering. You can probably get by with the stock style setup) though if you're having a shop replace bits just go with the parts for a V8 ZJ (Grand Cherokee, 1994-1998). One-ton steering is cool but I doubt you can get that delivered as fast
Thanks, that pic helps out a lot to explain what I should be looking for. If the do need to replace the tie rod I will make sure they go with the ZJ parts. Good to know they fit and are better.
I see what the shop was asking about the long vs short now. Most tie rods are pretty short, and when I was searching the parts at advance auto it was just showing the short ones.
Hopefully the quote for the work will be good when the actually take a look at it tomorrow.
Thanks for the help, I'm a little less panicked now.
Old Sep 25, 2013 | 01:56 PM
  #35640  
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by ch45x7
Thanks, that pic helps out a lot to explain what I should be looking for. If the do need to replace the tie rod I will make sure they go with the ZJ parts. Good to know they fit and are better.
I see what the shop was asking about the long vs short now. Most tie rods are pretty short, and when I was searching the parts at advance auto it was just showing the short ones.
Hopefully the quote for the work will be good when the actually take a look at it tomorrow.
Thanks for the help, I'm a little less panicked now.
Yeah the drag link has a TRE sleeve and TRE at the pitman arm end, the stock XJ "tie rod" is actually two TREs with a very very long adjusting sleeve between them. The ZJ tie rod is a solid unit with a TRE cast into one end, then you use a standard small sleeve and TRE on the driver's side.



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