0 280 155 746 is the full part number. Off 5 cylinder volvos.

 

I think I got it guys!
So even though I thought I crushed my sleeve on the pinion I tapped the pinion gear a bit with a block of wood and a dead blow hammer.
It loosened up! So I did that until I could tap and keep the same bearing pre load.
Got my .011 backlash and checked the gear marks
This is what I got! I think I'm gonna run it.
But wanted yalls opinion first

 

I got mine off eBay. Cleaned and orings replaced for 27$ shipped!

 

Good stuff! Nope, just flush everything until the water runs clear. Do the radiator, heater core, and block separately. Run the garden hose in the inlet and in the outlet to make sure and clogs are dislodged. Avoid any harsh chemicals. Some guys have used Cascade dishwasher powder on tough jobs. If you choose to do that make sure your system is totally clean before putting new coolant in.

Don't forget to dispose of old coolant properly.

 

How can u tell if ur fuse box, the one under the hood, has blown or is broken?

 

You mean the fuses? Ohm them out with a multimeter.

 

HELP ME!!!!

Where is the fuse located for the sunroof of a 2001 Cherokee Classic (Limited)

I read somewhere it shares the same one as intermittent wipers (?)
I've checked the owners manual for the fuses inside.. And read the ones listed inside the fuse box that is under the hood. Nothing!

Why do I need to know?
Because I think some rain must've seeped in and shorted something out. When I start the truck the sunroof "vents" on it's own. One time I was unable to get it to close for a couple days. Just a clicking sound. So now that it's closed, I just want to take out the fuse to keep it that way. I hardly ever use it anyway.

Thanks for reading!

 

How bad is it to have a .006 backlash?
My Ford 8.8 calls for .008-.015 but I just got the best pattern I can get but I have a .005 backlash now.
This thing is driving me nuts

 

Anyone know a paint code or how i can touch this up?



Looks like they painted right over factory tan. lol

 

Pattern looks better. It'll probably be fine. Before i got mine perfect i was going to run something very similar to that.

As for backlash with shims between the bearings, you need to move them from one side to the other. Not just throw shims in all ***** nilly. I would try to move .001 or .002 to the passenger side of the axle to get the BL up just a hair. If your shim totals arent using smaller shims like that, you might could get away with just adding a .001, but i would try to break the shim total down into smaller quantities.

If the BL is too high, it could shock load the gears and cause them to break. If the BL is too low, it could shorten the life of the bearings and add more heat to the gear set/ diff and shorten the life of all those components as well.

I know how frustrating it can be. Hopefully the front will go a little more smoothly for you. Doing one axle seems to help with the other, even though the two use different set up techniques. Problem is i got really good after doing my two axles which didnt do me any good lol.

 

Anyone have a diagram of the headlight switch on 97+? I'm going to be putting in a trans temp gauge and need to know where to tap in for the backlight power on the gauge. Thanks guys.

 

EDIT: Hmm that's completely useless without a description isn't it. Try circuit E1 (20awg tan pin 1)

 

I played with the carrier shims some more. I always move them in increments from left to right or right to left.
Got to a .007 backlash.
Ended up with this drive pattern



And this coast pattern




Thanks for the help man and I actually found a hp30 with a lockright and 4.88s for 300$ so I don't have to do the front!

 

That pattern looks perfect. Doo eet

 

Ballin. I'd call that a day, looks good to me. On the 30 you are supposed to add .003 to each shim pack to give carrier preload when installing into the housing, not sure about the 8.8, but press on your bearings, locktite everything down, run a final pattern check (shouldnt change...) and enjoy your new gears.