Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Frowned open?
#1 - not sure what your (or you) means. There are no bearings in the driveshaft. There are bearings in the U-JOINTS on either end of it, but not in the shaft itself. Also what does he mean by "because there isn't and inch of play on either end".
#2 - Assuming you have stock tire size, you just need to replace your bumpstops (aka "axle snubbers"). If you have larger than stock tire size, you're going to need extended bump stops OR bump stop spacers.
#3 - If you truly have bad gas, the best thing to do is to drain the gas from the tank and dispose of it. Easiest way to do this is to disconnect your fuel line just before the fuel filter, remove the fuel pump relay and put a "jumper" (see youtube video) in the correct pin spots and allow the fuel pump to pump out the fuel into a (approved) container. Your local auto parts store and/or your local landfill should have a means of safely and properly disposing of bad gas.
As far as reading the codes, your Jeep is OBD-I. So the code is displayed by counting the number of flashes emitted by your check engine light. Turn your key to "on/run)" (but do not start it - repeat DO NOT ENGAGE THE STARTER) and then back off again in the following sequence:
- key on, key off
- key on, key off
- key on and leave it on.... the check engine light will start to blink and will signal that it is done reading code when it flashes "5,5" or 55.
You can go with the Springs that are sold on Quadratec or the like - or go with new leafs off of Rock Auto for about 50-180 per side depending on your selection.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...af+spring,7544
As far as the shocks go, you can go with the Billstein 3100 series for a higher quality OEM shock... I think that's what you're hunting for based on what you wrote.
Totally viable DIY project. Lots of prep involved, but worth it if you do it right.
Here's a video of a guy that did a Pathfinder inside and out.
#1 - not sure what your (or you) means. There are no bearings in the driveshaft. There are bearings in the U-JOINTS on either end of it, but not in the shaft itself. Also what does he mean by "because there isn't and inch of play on either end".
#2 - Assuming you have stock tire size, you just need to replace your bumpstops (aka "axle snubbers"). If you have larger than stock tire size, you're going to need extended bump stops OR bump stop spacers.
#3 - If you truly have bad gas, the best thing to do is to drain the gas from the tank and dispose of it. Easiest way to do this is to disconnect your fuel line just before the fuel filter, remove the fuel pump relay and put a "jumper" (see youtube video) in the correct pin spots and allow the fuel pump to pump out the fuel into a (approved) container. Your local auto parts store and/or your local landfill should have a means of safely and properly disposing of bad gas.
As far as reading the codes, your Jeep is OBD-I. So the code is displayed by counting the number of flashes emitted by your check engine light. Turn your key to "on/run)" (but do not start it - repeat DO NOT ENGAGE THE STARTER) and then back off again in the following sequence:
- key on, key off
- key on, key off
- key on and leave it on.... the check engine light will start to blink and will signal that it is done reading code when it flashes "5,5" or 55.
You can go with the Springs that are sold on Quadratec or the like - or go with new leafs off of Rock Auto for about 50-180 per side depending on your selection.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...af+spring,7544
As far as the shocks go, you can go with the Billstein 3100 series for a higher quality OEM shock... I think that's what you're hunting for based on what you wrote.
Totally viable DIY project. Lots of prep involved, but worth it if you do it right.
Here's a video of a guy that did a Pathfinder inside and out.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
So the only way to be getting trace amounts of coolant in the oil is a bad head gasket isn't it? https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/96...8/#post3315103
CF Veteran
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 2
From: Quebec
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
since my A/C is not working and I'm not looking to fix it, ever, is it possible to somehow remove all the lines going to the evap core for more access in the engine bay? for example I'll soon be ready to do my motor mounts, but the a/c stuff is in the way. so is there such thing as removing all the lines and leaving the a/c as an idler pulley basically?
some people talk about converting to on board air, I'm not really considering that but I guess in the future it might be a cool projet, so I also have to keep that in mind.
some people talk about converting to on board air, I'm not really considering that but I guess in the future it might be a cool projet, so I also have to keep that in mind.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
You can. Legally, you must have the system evacuated by an A/C tech so the refrigerant is captured. Also keep in mind that once those parts are exposed to the environment, you may or may not have to replace them if you change your mind.
With all that said, mine has been disconnected for about a year. I just have the compressor there to keep the belt tight
With all that said, mine has been disconnected for about a year. I just have the compressor there to keep the belt tight
Junior Member
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 52
Likes: 0
From: Mint Hill N.C.
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright, I searched around for my situation and couldn't really get the answers I was looking for... so starters I did an impulse decision of ripping all my AC stuff out when it stopped working (stopped blowing cold, IDK why) so now that I've spent a couple years without the parts in there and a half built OBA system setup with the compressor, I now have changed my mind and want my AC back. it's an 89 Laredo 4.0 if somebody can by chance give me a list of parts I need to replace, and which parts are interchangeable from newer years since I made the wise choice of just ripping it all out. I plan on doing R134 and by what I've read I don't need anything special to do R134 besides the connectors. Also if anybody has a diagram of all the parts I can figure out what I need from that.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited by clinky; Oct 7, 2016 at 12:47 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 1,419
Likes: 1
From: Detroit, MI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
So I've found out that there are two different trans mounts, one has the bolts that go into the x-member centered (00-01), and on the other the bolts are offset to the drivers side (I assume all other years). I'll spare the details as to why I'm asking, but does anyone know if they are the same "thickness"? Like, they'll create the same size gap/space between the bottom of the tranny and the top of the x-member?
Thanks, Fitz
Thanks, Fitz
Junior Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Model: Cherokee
You can go with the Springs that are sold on Quadratec or the like - or go with new leafs off of Rock Auto for about 50-180 per side depending on your selection.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...af+spring,7544
As far as the shocks go, you can go with the Billstein 3100 series for a higher quality OEM shock... I think that's what you're hunting for based on what you wrote.
And Im seeing a lot listed for lifted vehicles that *seem* to be the same length as stock...any ideas on stock lengths?
http://www.4wheelparts.com/parts/bilstein/shocks.aspx
Last edited by default; Oct 7, 2016 at 08:46 PM.
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Newbie
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 5
Likes: 0
From: Omaha,ne
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 h.o.
Question about the gauge cluster, just yesterday my 91 xj Laredo 4.0 auto 242, had the tach and speedo fighting for the crazy award while the fuel gauge couldn't agree on weather there was a quarter tank of gas in it or if it was so full it was causing it to sweep to the stop on the full side. What might be the gremlin to cause that, it fixed itself for a mile or two then when I accelerated to merge it started going nuts again. It's been untouched, and I removed the cruise actuator, replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolant system, broke then bypassed that fitting at the back for the heater core, and plugged off both vacuum lines so they aren't leaking. Any ideas?
Herp Derp Jerp
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 18,251
Likes: 17
From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
Question about the gauge cluster, just yesterday my 91 xj Laredo 4.0 auto 242, had the tach and speedo fighting for the crazy award while the fuel gauge couldn't agree on weather there was a quarter tank of gas in it or if it was so full it was causing it to sweep to the stop on the full side. What might be the gremlin to cause that, it fixed itself for a mile or two then when I accelerated to merge it started going nuts again. It's been untouched, and I removed the cruise actuator, replaced the thermostat, flushed the coolant system, broke then bypassed that fitting at the back for the heater core, and plugged off both vacuum lines so they aren't leaking. Any ideas?