Aftermarket heated seat switch.

 

Thanks for the link. Now, I can't seem to find the grommets that go in the valve cover!! I think I have found grommets that fit every Cherokee but my 1991 4.0!



Here ya go

https://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/...driveLine=9359[/QUOTE]

 

 

Recommendations on where to get a
231 transfer case chain.

Probably pulling the 42re out of the zj soon and figure I should give the transfer case some love while it's out.

 

Morse chain off eBay. About $75

 

I see that consistent price on ebay and they all say alloy USA. Same thing or am I way off?

 

Sounds good. I was mainly looking to use on threads and bolts down below for areas exposed to the road salt since I will be moving back to Chicago from Las Vegas next year. I will avoid using it on any sensors. Also, I have seen people mention the torque issues so I will steer clear of using it for sensitive torque requirement parts.

Shoot, sounds like a torch will be the way to go then. I have seen some inspiring videos where people used rust penetrant and rocked the bolt back and forth using a tightening and loosening method while stopping and using a hammer and more rust penetrant then back to the impact and it broke the bolt free. They said beware of using a torch because if you can't get the bolt off you can accidentally expand the metal and make it even hard to take off. I think some people said something about accidently hardening the bolt too from heating and cooling, though that might have been if people were splashing liquid on it to cool it off. I figured if I go with the torch or impact my backup would be to just break the bolt and use a drill to drill through the bolts to remove the control arms. Though, couldn't the torch just cut through the bolts? Or would that much heat in that area risk ruining the frame which I would need to install my new control arm and bolts?

Thanks again for all the help. I think I will look into acquiring a torch.

 

What is the properr Hardware to mount a winch

 

Grade 8 bolts. Big ones

 

sweet, got grade 8 and red loctite to deter thieving bastards

 

Hey I came across an 01 limited at the junkyard. Barely touched. Snagged the tweeters which I'm pumped about. Are the door speakers in those better than the sport?

And to make the tweeters work
do I simply just plug them in? Are they just tied in with the door speaker controls? I have a pioneer head unit which only "controls" front and back. No tweeter option

 

They plug right in. Wiring is already there.

 

you know if the door speakers are better than normal?
Are they infinity's as well?

 

I use Permatex Copper Anti-Sieze on pretty much everything (no sensors). There's some information on the subject: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/to...2/#post2281736



If a bolt's that stuck it needs replacing. Up here in the rust belt, if it needs a torch to come off, it's getting replaced. Too rusty to go back in - never mind heat cycling. Half the time the head's almost stripped/rounded anyway.

All of the suspension bolts are hardened. Drilling through them is not straightforward. For the control arms, with the exception of the frame-side uppers, an angle grinder makes quick work of things, if you can't get them out normally. Yes, using a cutting torch turned up high enough to actually cut will burn through the uniframe (16GA mild steel in most parts) loooong before the bolts are even warm.

A LOT of penetrating oil is the ticket.

If you're not into an oxy/acetylene setup, MAPP gas is where it's at. I've only needed acetylene once, and that was for O2 sensors. I'm sure things go faster but I can't justify the cost at my hobbyist level. Propane is for barbecues, lol.

 

What year is this? Assuming 4.0L

Previous owner comments shouldn't be trusted. Check the spark plugs for good gap.