I have been doing some work on different parts of my steering and suspension system over the last month. Tie rod + ends + drag link, now onto lower and upper control arms, then will move on to shocks. One issue I have encountered is that my 98 Jeep Cherokee has had some serious issues with rusted and seized bolts. I was able to man handle the tie rod ends and castle nuts and everything with some MC HAMMER TIME along with tie rod end puller. The pickle fork did me no good. Now the control arm bolts are even worse. I am looking into getting an air compressor and impact wrench though to see if I can do some work on these bolts. I have been soaking the crap out of them with PB blaster.

Now with that bit of info in case any non vet readers stumble upon this: the Jeep vets who reply probably could have gotten by with, "I've got seized and rusted bolts under my old Jeep. How would I go about preventing future corrosion on the new bolts and hardware that I use to replace the old stuff?"

From what I had read in my searches I have seen people mention getting zinc coated hardware. Some also mentioned using anti seize lubricant. Then others said not to use anti seize. Some said to use any grease or oil. Some said not to or at least not to over do it so nuts and bolts do not become loose. I am wondering if it would be good to use a smaller application of anti seize lube to the bolts and parts while I do these projects. Then, once they are tightened, adding some sort of layer of water resisitant and weather/temp resistant grease or lube over the bolts and nuts to prevent this happening again. Then every so often like yearly or every few years, depending on how the external coat holds, reapplying. I read that white lithium grease is good for metal on metal rust. I saw a Wd40 spray & stay gel lube that is supposed to last up to a year. There are also corrosion inhibitor lubes and sprays, some say they are good for long term.

Thank you in advance to anyone who replies to my post and offers help. I will pass on the knowledge as well if anyone ever asks or sounds like they can use the info.

 

If you're going to apply rust inhibitors regularly look into fluid film. Antisieze is generally a good idea, it can be bad for some sensors like your O2 sensor and it's agueable whether or not it's good for sparkplugs. If something requires a specific torque don't use antisieze as the lubricating properties will make you over torque the fastener. For bolts that go through bushings and such try to not get any on the threads(or very little, I know once you apply it it gets everywhere in unexplainable ways...lol) but definitely get some on the inside of the bushing as bolts tend to weld to the inside of the metal insert in the bushing.

Edit: also generally if you can't get a bolt out with a decent breaker bar the impact either isn't going to work either or it's just going to break it right away. You can get lucky every now and then but you'll have more luck using an acetylene torch(MAP and propane can sometimes work), soaking in penetrating fluid(ATF and acetone are supposed to work great) and a breaker bar.

 

Hey Jeepers, new to this site and have some questions ... I bought a 98 Cherokee Limited for my son's first vehicle. He just started working his first full time job. It is in very good condition with 185,000 miles on it. He and myself want to learn more about Jeeps so this is a learning for both of us. Last weekend the right rear tire blew and destroyed the inner fender well and quarter panel. Now the axle seal is leaking and the brake shoes are covered in differential fluid. My question is ... Is this a job we can do? The seal is very inexpensive and he doesn't have a couple hundred bucks to spend on it ... he has to pay for the 5 new tires that we just replaced. I believe it is a Dana 35 and I've never worked on a differential before. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Sorry about the long winded story.

 

I have a question concerning shock mounts...primarily the lower front mounts. My right shock mount finally broke off after three years of rough riding. It had been VERY rusted and it was a wonder it lasted this long, when I bought it.

So, needless to say, The WHOLE front end needs to be replaced now. Here's the question: Where can I find a new mount to weld on to the old axle? Or is it cheaper/better just to get an axle from the JY and be done with it?

Ok ..I guess that was more than A question. lol I appreciate any assistance...thanks guys and gals!

 

Don't apologize. We've all been there.

Depending on your skillset and willingness to learn, this could be a great father/son project. Youtube might even have some videos.

And, we will guide you.

 

Google/YouTube is a great source. I did the seals on my Chrysler 8.25 which is also a C-clip axle I believe it should be the same but doing the seals are pretty easy. The hardest part was getting the rusty crusty drum brakes off. If you're up for an even bigger challenge you could swap on some disc brakes from a ZJ while you're at it...lol rent a nice 3 jaw puller from an auto store and use the older seal to drive in the new seals.

 

How much of a PITA is replacing the condenser? Do I have to remove the radiator and trans cooler, too?

 

How likely is it for my axle shaft ujoint to explode if a few of the needle bearings are missing??

 

I'd replace it, why wouldn't you?

 

lulz i will. thanks for continuing to answer my dumb questions SH

 

so the jeep failed smog, for all categories lol!
any advice? It had mismatched injectors when I bought it so I just changed them and picked up an o2 sensor and can of sea foam. Was thinking about doing plugs and an air filter also. All the tune up parts are new according to the previous owner.

 

The only dumb questions are the ones not asked, then the u joint breaks and takes the ears off the axle shaft too. That would've been dumb. You would probably be fine missing a couple needle bearings on road, might make noise and such. I just think why risk it with such a cheap part.

 

So I have seen the heated seat switches in an XJ but never noticed what I circled. What is that?

 

I have 2 temp gauges 1 one a new (for me) gauge cluster and a Bosch aftermarket one. The factory one stays just below the red mark while the Bosch stays between 190-200 on my 87 xj 2.5l. I was wondering why the difference is so big, any ideas on how to get the factory one more accurate? The Bosch one was hooked up to a t fitting just before the thermostat housing so it should be fairly accurate, and the factory one supposedly I have the right sending unit (previously wired for dumbie lights) and just plugged it in. Even on startup it goes to 220, doesn't warm up like the Bosch one

 

Mine failed cuz the cat so we welded a post 2000's Lexus cat in and my 87 xj passed. The cat from the PO was missing the honeycomb or whatever you want to call it, you could see straight thru. Passed with flying colors. Also had bad gas cap and slight oil leak cuz a bolt was loose and one was missing on the valve cover so there was an exhaust leak apparently. I live in California so I don't know if your state is as strict