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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
ok! just replaced the fuel pump with the bosch assembly from amazon for 190$+tax shipped. purrs like a bear (with a leaky exhaust). so the fuel relay clicking back off within a second or two when the fuel pump is dead is a result of the pcm not seeing sufficient fuel pressure being accrued apparently. I had no idea that xj's had that redundancy built in. eitheer way now it's rolling again and now i can focued on other small things like door seals and a plastidip job. I'll post a writeup if i end up doing anything new.
hey so I have 2000 xj and when it gets to a higher rpm it makes like a whistling noise coming from like the serpentine belt area so could that be like a pump or a alternator or something causing this???
So I'm wiring in a kill switch straight from the battery to the fuel pump, partly to bypass a problem and also as anti theft.
I'm pretty sure it's the pink and black wire that's the power, in the cab that one light up when the key was turned. But at the connector Next to the pump I get nothing. But I traced the wire and it's not broken or exposed so I'm lost and just going to do a direct power set up. Is that one the power wire? And what are the other 2?
My rear seal on my transmission, the one that meets the driveshaft, is leaking transmission fluid. The Haynes manual says I may need a puller tool to take out the old seal. Anybody know which puller exactly? Does it matter?
While under there I was going to replace the transmission filter. For both jobs, Haynes says to put the XJ on jackstands, but honestly, as long as I can get to everything, is there any reason not to do these jobs with the wheels on the ground?
My rear seal on my transmission, the one that meets the driveshaft, is leaking transmission fluid. The Haynes manual says I may need a puller tool to take out the old seal. Anybody know which puller exactly? Does it matter?
While under there I was going to replace the transmission filter. For both jobs, Haynes says to put the XJ on jackstands, but honestly, as long as I can get to everything, is there any reason not to do these jobs with the wheels on the ground?
You can do it wheels on the ground, just make sure you chock the wheels because it will roll once you pull the driveshaft out. You also shouldn't replace the "filter" in the transmission unless you have a leaking pan and need to drop it anyway. Otherwise just use the drain plug and refill. The filter is just a screen that catches big chunks. Most never change them.
ok! just replaced the fuel pump with the bosch assembly from amazon for 190$+tax shipped. purrs like a bear (with a leaky exhaust). so the fuel relay clicking back off within a second or two when the fuel pump is dead is a result of the pcm not seeing sufficient fuel pressure being accrued apparently. I had no idea that xj's had that redundancy built in. eitheer way now it's rolling again and now i can focued on other small things like door seals and a plastidip job. I'll post a writeup if i end up doing anything new.
Not sure where you heard that... The pressure regulator is mechanical, on '97+ the unit is merely integrated into the fuel pump module instead of on the rail. There is no sensor.
The PCM turns off the pump after a few seconds when the engine isn't running to conserve battery power. Normal operation.
Originally Posted by Svvift
so i got a simple question.
how necessary is that coil spring retention clip up front?
the passenger side decided it didn't want to stay snug.
i'm never going to flex it all that much.. just driving around hunting properties or on the beach..
Wouldn't worry much on a stock XJ since so many things limit downtravel. If you're lifted at all I would make sure it's in there. If the coil spring comes up enough to slip over that little bump it sits around it's going to bounce away on you. The upper bumpstop tower sticks far down to prevent that.
Originally Posted by Sweeney546
hey so I have 2000 xj and when it gets to a higher rpm it makes like a whistling noise coming from like the serpentine belt area so could that be like a pump or a alternator or something causing this???
Could be. Normally I'd recommend a mechanic's stethoscope, but on account of the moving parts a short length of hose would be a good idea. Use it like an earhorn to track down the source of the noise. You can work the throttle with your hand from the front of the engine. Make sure you don't wear a hooded sweatshirt with dangly strings... (or long hair for that matter)
Originally Posted by naverillsn001
My rear seal on my transmission, the one that meets the driveshaft, is leaking transmission fluid. The Haynes manual says I may need a puller tool to take out the old seal. Anybody know which puller exactly? Does it matter?
A proper seal puller is a nice tool, but I got by quite well using pry bars. Most parts stores will have a common size puller. They're not specific.
Originally Posted by naverillsn001
While under there I was going to replace the transmission filter. For both jobs, Haynes says to put the XJ on jackstands, but honestly, as long as I can get to everything, is there any reason not to do these jobs with the wheels on the ground?
No need to change that at all. It's a screen that prevents damage from large bits. There is no service interval.
Wouldn't worry much on a stock XJ since so many things limit downtravel. If you're lifted at all I would make sure it's in there. If the coil spring comes up enough to slip over that little bump it sits around it's going to bounce away on you. The upper bumpstop tower sticks far down to prevent that.
well i do have a 4ish inch lift.
the bolt would start to cinch down.. but then get loose. so my only other option would be to replace the nut.. but i don't remember seeing a way to get to it...
i'll give it another look when i go to test fit my bumpers this weekend.
well i do have a 4ish inch lift.
the bolt would start to cinch down.. but then get loose. so my only other option would be to replace the nut.. but i don't remember seeing a way to get to it...
i'll give it another look when i go to test fit my bumpers this weekend.
Drill the hole out and tap it for a bigger size bolt and use a new bolt. All of the axles I've done work on have had it exactly the same way. Mine I just got them semi tight and left it. My coil doesn't fall out when I droop