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Old 06-08-2017, 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
Why do you want the fan to come on sooner that 220? That's already a little too soon for it to kick on. 210-220 is normal operating temperature. The 4.0 lives there. Having your 4.0 run at 190-200 is killing its efficiency.
Mine is an 87 xj 2.5l and based off the aftermarket temp gauge mine stays at 190-200.

Last edited by Ethan94; 06-08-2017 at 05:50 AM.
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Old 06-08-2017, 05:57 AM
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So before I go outside and start working on the Jeep again figure give another go at trying to understand air tool specs. The compressor is a 30 gallon, 155PSI, with 5.3CFM @90PSI. Does that mean an impact that say MAXIMUM AIR FLOW 5.9 CFM is too much. Still eyeballing that dewalt DWMT70773L. It has 3 year warranty. I can get it through the store for about $110. And found one on Ebay for $85, says new not refurbished, with free shipping. Figure it this way. Not like it is going to be running all day. If I have to wait for the tank to fill up a little while trying to get a nut off no big deal. One good thing about not having a life. My time is not valuable. LOL.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MarkusBett
Greetings! I recently got a stock 99 Jeep Cherokee XJ, I have always loved the way a built jeep looks and I wanted to build mine. I want a 4.5" lift kit with 31" to 32" tires. But everyone is saying that a 4.5" lift kit is too much work, I was wondering if that's true. I am not a car genus and I'm no mechanic but I can do plenty with installing parts. Thank you for reading and responding!

Best of Luck

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i don't think it would be too bad.
i did a 4-ish inch lift on mine in my driveway.. and that list Basslicks posted is a good reference guide. From what i have read, certain parts aren't always necessary (like the SYE for example). Some jeeps can get away without certain parts and others can't.

i'm currently on 30" A/Ts that were on my xj when i bought it in April. i did a add-a-leaf (2") and a 2" shackle for the rear and i found some 3" skyjacker springs for the front at a junkyard. I added a 2" spacer to the front and it seems to sit pretty darn close to level (with the exception of my sagging d/s rear leaf but that will be replaced eventually).
no t-case drop, no SYE, and i don't seem to have any drivetrain vibs.

still need to replace the shocks and do something about the brake lines



if you do the install yourself... just make sure everything is tightened properly... i had a castle nut work itself just barely loose on the D/S... and death wobble got progressively worse on a 120mile drive.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
So the previous owner of my '00 had tints put in. They turned purple. Bugs me. Awhile back I got a quote for $250 to remove and replace with. Thing is I would rather have factory tinted glass. Found some at the boneyard. For big and little windows in the back doors, cargo bay windows, and rear hatch with a defogger window they want $200. Does that seem reasonable? Is it possible to put a meter on the connectors of the hatch window to check continuity to see if it works properly? I am going to track down a cargo bay leak. Removed the hatch plastic and while nothing is jumping out at me leaning towards it being part of the seal at the top. Thinking a remove and replace would be the best way to fix this instead of just gunking it up more. Going to hit it with some water today to see if I am right. So since it might play out like that thinking maybe just go for the tinted glass.
where are you located? i have a set of factory tinted windows taking up space in the garage... but i don't trust myself/shipping companies to not break them if i had them shipped
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Svvift
where are you located? i have a set of factory tinted windows taking up space in the garage... but i don't trust myself/shipping companies to not break them if i had them shipped
CT. Thinking the shipping would kill any kind of a good deal. Plus as you pointed out them arriving in one piece is probably iffy at best.
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Old 06-08-2017, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
CT. Thinking the shipping would kill any kind of a good deal. Plus as you pointed out them arriving in one piece is probably iffy at best.
yeah, after padding and all that... sucks too cuz they are pretty much pristine. i gutted a set of doors to do my half door project (that hasn't been touched in a month)
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Old 06-08-2017, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Cane
i point my IR gun at the thermostat housing and get around 220*F after a normal drive, and around 230-240 after my commute back from work in traffic (the e-fan kicked on when the IR showed 240)

at those times, the temp gauge reads slightly under 210* for the first reading, and right on the 210* mark during the commute in traffic.

my question is, is it more likely that the IR gun gives a reading too high or that both temp sensors give a reading too low? what's the ideal place to point the IR gun for coolant reading? upper radiator hose?

thanks
The gauge in your instrument cluster is an idiot gauge. It gives you a ~210 reading until you get to 255 or so, then it will jump up to 260 and the check gauges light will come on. Ask me how I know.

You can buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter for cheap and use an app like Torque to get readings from the computer to get something more precise. I have a scangauge that I bought 15 years ago before those bluetooth adapters were available and leave it running all the time, but today I'd buy an UltraGauge instead.

Both my scangauge and the obd2 bluetooth adapters I have report the same thing you are seeing.

Like you and BassLicks said, hitting the temp sensor housing with an IR gun is the most accurate method because it takes out any errors in the sensor itself (but introduces its own errors if it's not a high-quality gun). That's a little hard to do while trucking down the interstate, though.
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:10 AM
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Anybody ever regrease your seat adjuster slides? I figure prepping to POR 15 them, cleaner/degreaser, risne, metal prep, and then rinse again I washed away some of the grease. They still seem to move alright but figure it wouldn't hurt. Was thinking maybe this:

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MCC1394
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by wizardpc
The gauge in your instrument cluster is an idiot gauge. It gives you a ~210 reading until you get to 255 or so, then it will jump up to 260 and the check gauges light will come on. Ask me how I know.

You can buy a bluetooth OBDII adapter for cheap and use an app like Torque to get readings from the computer to get something more precise. I have a scangauge that I bought 15 years ago before those bluetooth adapters were available and leave it running all the time, but today I'd buy an UltraGauge instead.

Both my scangauge and the obd2 bluetooth adapters I have report the same thing you are seeing.

Like you and BassLicks said, hitting the temp sensor housing with an IR gun is the most accurate method because it takes out any errors in the sensor itself (but introduces its own errors if it's not a high-quality gun). That's a little hard to do while trucking down the interstate, though.
Mine doesn't jump, it's a steady climb, maybe yours has the temp sender for an idiot light gauge. They're two different ones depending on which cluster you have.
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:48 AM
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I bought a 88 Cherokee Chief with a 90 4.0 about 2 maybe 3 months ago and I'm curious about gas tank size
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:51 AM
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So I bought a 88 Cherokee Chief with a 90 4.0 2 months maybe 3 months ago and I'm curious about its gas tank size
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Old 06-08-2017, 11:59 AM
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Should be 20.1gal unless there was an optional tank offered.
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Old 06-08-2017, 12:49 PM
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My Cherokee I bought has 1/4 of gas in the tank and it seems like it sat for a while and that the gas is most likely fairly old.
So to the question would it be okay to mix in some new premium gas because it is kinda running rough and seems like its running rich and doesnt want to ignite the fuel well and backfires in the exhaust I am gonna replace the spark plugs as well and just to specify it is a 88 Cherokee Chief with a 90 4.0
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Old 06-08-2017, 12:57 PM
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How long is a while. I can let my CJ snow plowing Jeep sit from one winter to the next with no problem. Of course it is carbureted. Got good fuel pressure? If so add 5gal of gas along with a bottle of dry gas to get rid of any water from moisture.
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Old 06-08-2017, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
How long is a while. Got good fuel pressure? If so add 5gal of gas along with a bottle of dry gas to get rid of any water from moisture.
I'm gonna guess 1 year maybe more I'm not really sure. And about fuel pressure again I'm not sure I think so though (Sorry about not being certain all my tools are packed up being I'm moving soon)
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