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Old 09-21-2015, 03:49 PM
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:31 PM   #58156
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Default Understanding Windshield Installation

Quote:
Originally Posted by Cane View Post
yeah exactly that. funny enough the guy below asked the same thing right after.
Sorry, I didn't get the quote thing correct.

I didn't have the same issue but was offering appropriate action to be taken to correct his issue and concerns.

The original moulding is held to the windshield with a butyl rubber sealant, not urethane. The little "C" shaped channel that cups the moulding to the glass is held on with a small amount of butyl rubber that comes pre-fitted into the moulding. Urethane only comes into play when the windshield is set into the pinch weld opening of the vehicle. Urethane then contacts the pinch weld, windshield glass and the moulding, thereby bonding all 3 items into synergy whereby the 3 together are stronger than the individual pieces by themselves.

The bond of the windshield to the pinchweld is critical to the structural integrity of the roof in the event of a rollover. If not properly bonded and allowed to cure the amount of time required by the urethane manufacturer, the windshield could in fact simply pop out and allow total crush of the driver and passenger compartment. With a properly cured bond, the windshield will still break but will still help maintain structural integrity.

Yes, I understand that cabs still crush and people get hurt or possibly die, but correct installation of the windshield is a genuine safety concern for a daily driver.

The moulding has absolutely nothing to do with the vehicle except for cosmetics. Some later model vehicles do not have mouldings but simply appear to float between the A pillars and the roof line.

I know TMI but someone may can benefit from my nearly 40 years of experience in the glass business.

Bottom line and answer directly to the question is "yes" urethane will work to put the moulding back into the channel. It will be a bear.

Happy Jeepin'
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Old 05-16-2017, 07:58 PM   #58157
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Originally Posted by Joecam18
Starting to second guess picking up axles that have lockers for a rig I'll likely drive on the street more than offroad. Never had lockers before, will the lunch box lockers make street driving bad?
I can't tell you how the front is, but I daily drive a rear lunch box and it's perfectly fine. I also drive terribly and accelerate hard in turns for fun which will cause a tire to chirp but I don't care pulling out of work at 5 better believe tires are chirping pulling out of the parking lot haha
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Old 05-16-2017, 08:21 PM   #58158
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OK, a tire question.


I have a set of wheels from my 1998 Ford F150 Nascar Edition truck in 16x8.
I want to put them on my XJ in place of the stock 15x7.
Is there a adapter (link) I can buy to put these 16" wheels on the stock 15" hub?
Thanks
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Old 05-16-2017, 09:14 PM   #58159
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Did some more research into my hazard/brake light issue. So it would seem that there is a wired connection at the positive terminal that apparently feeds the brake lights and hazards. I vaguely recall when installing my new battery cables and everything that I unplugged a wire fitting this description and more or less left it be assuming it served no purpose (thought it was some kind of fusible link wire). Methinks this is my issue... tempted to waddle my fat *** outside in the dark and see.
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Old 05-17-2017, 07:09 AM   #58160
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Did some more research into my hazard/brake light issue. So it would seem that there is a wired connection at the positive terminal that apparently feeds the brake lights and hazards. I vaguely recall when installing my new battery cables and everything that I unplugged a wire fitting this description and more or less left it be assuming it served no purpose (thought it was some kind of fusible link wire). Methinks this is my issue... tempted to waddle my fat *** outside in the dark and see.
For those interested, that was the issue. Apparently the HAZ fuse gets power from a separate wire at the terminal. See pic below. Thank God I have brake lights and hazards now!

XJ Ask the Question Thread-20170517_074821.jpg

XJ Ask the Question Thread-20170517_074824.jpg
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Old 05-17-2017, 11:22 AM   #58161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MotoBoss View Post
OK, a tire question.


I have a set of wheels from my 1998 Ford F150 Nascar Edition truck in 16x8.
I want to put them on my XJ in place of the stock 15x7.
Is there a adapter (link) I can buy to put these 16" wheels on the stock 15" hub?
Thanks
Methinks they will just fit.
I run Ford Explorer 16" wheels on my XJ and ZJ. The hole in the wheel is a bit too small for the pilot stub on the hub, I had to file out the wheels to allow them to fit. So now they are centered by the taper on the bolts, instead of on the pilot. Make sure you make the hole in the wheel big enough to allow the wheel to get flat against the hub flange, else you will bend the hub and/or the wheel, and they will fall off.
The Ford wheels have just a bit more (less?) offset, ie. they stick out farther, so less interference with the lower control arms at full lock.
With 2" lift, 245/75R16 tires work good.
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Old 05-17-2017, 04:07 PM   #58162
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Originally Posted by the_big_h View Post
Methinks they will just fit.
I run Ford Explorer 16" wheels on my XJ and ZJ. The hole in the wheel is a bit too small for the pilot stub on the hub, I had to file out the wheels to allow them to fit. So now they are centered by the taper on the bolts, instead of on the pilot. Make sure you make the hole in the wheel big enough to allow the wheel to get flat against the hub flange, else you will bend the hub and/or the wheel, and they will fall off.
The Ford wheels have just a bit more (less?) offset, ie. they stick out farther, so less interference with the lower control arms at full lock.
With 2" lift, 245/75R16 tires work good.


Thanks for the reply. I did try to put them on but the lug holes are just out of alignment. They're not off by much but just not close enough to go on. If I remember correctly the wheels of the Nascar Edition F150 were a one off deal. I think they are 5 on 5 whereas the XJ is 5 on 4.5 correct?
I haven't tried recently as I went ahead and bought a new set of Cooper's in 31x10.5x15.
Here shortly I'm going to garage the XJ and take care of some body work so I'll try again while tearing it apart.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:13 PM   #58163
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Timkens seem to be going out the window quality wise. Any suggestions on other brands to upgrade to?
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:15 PM   #58164
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Wha? Since when?

SKF is the other high quality manufacturer.
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Old 05-19-2017, 07:26 PM   #58165
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Wha? Since when?

SKF is the other high quality manufacturer.
Reviews on amazon seen to be poop the last couple years of buyers
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Old 05-19-2017, 11:24 PM   #58166
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He should have the same as you.
Yeah I kinda figured he would. The 91 and the 92 don't have very many differences at all.
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Old 05-20-2017, 01:01 PM   #58167
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So in the process of getting the cruise control in and noticed that the last section of hard plastic vacuum line to the vacuum ball had a pin hole. No problem to replace because I have extra from the cruise control units. Does that line work the blender door changing the direction of air from floor to console to defrost? If so how much of a leak would it take to make it stop working properly? Best I can tell mine works fine.
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Old 05-20-2017, 05:58 PM   #58168
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Default P0203 & P0303

Hey guys. Have an issue past few days. Waiting on new Injectors to come but want to see if there's anything else that may be the issue. What I've read up on shows issue on hot start ups. Here we go.

2001 264k on clock.

when i first warm her up in the morning i get the code and the flashing CEL. If i turn her off and clear the code, i can usually get by the rest of the day without the CEL popping up nor any tough driving. Last week we had 80+ temperature days and when it was 100 out, jeep started with no issues at all. This isn't vapor lock what's so ever. Before when i was driving, i did my nor al routine of clearing the cel and then starting up to drive, but during my drive, code came up and CEL flashed. It's 65* out today. I don't know if ambient temperature affects it.

I'm gonna try swapping out my IAC and TPS as I've heard some.people say its on the same circuit. I already started looking for shorts and haven't seen anything yet. I'm.also gonna swap back my air sensor to the TB to see if ambient temps do affect it. Thanks in advance and sorry for long description. hoping to dig into her further tomorrow to see what i can find
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:38 PM   #58169
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Originally Posted by sycoglitch
Hey guys. Have an issue past few days. Waiting on new Injectors to come but want to see if there's anything else that may be the issue. What I've read up on shows issue on hot start ups. Here we go.

2001 264k on clock.

when i first warm her up in the morning i get the code and the flashing CEL. If i turn her off and clear the code, i can usually get by the rest of the day without the CEL popping up nor any tough driving. Last week we had 80+ temperature days and when it was 100 out, jeep started with no issues at all. This isn't vapor lock what's so ever. Before when i was driving, i did my nor al routine of clearing the cel and then starting up to drive, but during my drive, code came up and CEL flashed. It's 65* out today. I don't know if ambient temperature affects it.

I'm gonna try swapping out my IAC and TPS as I've heard some.people say its on the same circuit. I already started looking for shorts and haven't seen anything yet. I'm.also gonna swap back my air sensor to the TB to see if ambient temps do affect it. Thanks in advance and sorry for long description. hoping to dig into her further tomorrow to see what i can find
Howdy! About time you came back! Been a long ****ing while!
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Old 05-20-2017, 06:48 PM   #58170
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Howdy! About time you came back! Been a long ****ing while!
Been busy lately. New job. Daughter is at her everything is about her age lol. Haven't had time to really log in and poke around. Wanna get back into the jeep scene again. Been a while
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