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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Sep 26, 2017 | 03:39 PM
  #58906  
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From: Anderson, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
Have you tried lubricating it? Had that kind of issue with my doors and hatch locks. Gave a squirt of Liquid Wrench chain lube I had in each lock and now they're working like new. Can't hurt to try some kind of lube. Maybe Blaster even.

Also do you have a lot of weight on your key ring?
I shot some graphite in there, might try something else. And yeah, I probably have too many keys on my keychain
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 04:09 PM
  #58907  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Danger12
87 XJ 4.0. Sometimes won't start. It'll fire every other time it sounds but won't start. I get it to start by unplugging the CPS, turning the key on and back off, plug CPS back in and then it'll start. I've replaced the CPS twice in the last 3-4 months. Could I possibly got a bad sensor 2 times in a row? Could something else be messing with the CPS?
You need to visit my website and do Tips 1 through 5.
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 04:12 PM
  #58908  
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From: WV
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee
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More years ago than I like to remember a friend of mine's dad who was a motor pool Sgt. warned me about having too much weight on the ignition key ring. Said the constant movement of the weight on the ignition key could cause a short. Made a mental note of it. A week or so later when I started the vehicle ('64 Chevy p/u) I noticed a wisp of smoke coming out from around the key. Who would of thought?
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 04:46 PM
  #58909  
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Default Leveling off

93 Two door Cherokee
Its all stock and original as far as I can see.

I don't want to lift it at this time but would like to level it off.
What is the best way to do that?

Thanks
Nick
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 04:56 PM
  #58910  
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From: WV
Year: '96
Model: Cherokee
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How bad is it sagging say compared to other XJ's? Front or back worse?
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 05:10 PM
  #58911  
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It definitely sags a lot out front. Hard to compare to another XJ most are lifted around here.
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 05:43 PM
  #58912  
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Nick975
93 Two door Cherokee
Its all stock and original as far as I can see.

I don't want to lift it at this time but would like to level it off.
What is the best way to do that?

Thanks
Nick
if they are sagging why not just get new springs?
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 05:44 PM
  #58913  
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If the front was level with the back or just a bit lower that would be good? If so you can measure front and back from the top of the axle tube up to the frame. Make up the difference in the front with a coil spring spacer. If you weren't looking to eventually lift it I'd go another route.
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 06:55 PM
  #58914  
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From: Tampa, FL
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Stripped TPS screw

Trying to replace my TPS, and one of the two Torx screws (the one closer to the engine) is seized, and stripped. Any ideas how to get it out? The screw head is too thin to lock vice grips onto, and I doubt there's enough clearance back there to get a drill in to do an ez-out. Counting on you guys to have a brilliant solution.
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 06:58 PM
  #58915  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by naverillsn001
Trying to replace my TPS, and one of the two Torx screws (the one closer to the engine) is seized, and stripped. Any ideas how to get it out? The screw head is too thin to lock vice grips onto, and I doubt there's enough clearance back there to get a drill in to do an ez-out. Counting on you guys to have a brilliant solution.
Remove the throttle body with the sensor still installed, then extract it
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 07:22 PM
  #58916  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Remove the throttle body with the sensor still installed, then extract it
Thanks!!! That's a good suggestion. I was also thinking, since the body of the tps is plastic, maybe I could just cut the tps apart and pull it off around the screw, after which the bare screw will be easy to deal with.

Last edited by naverillsn001; Sep 26, 2017 at 07:25 PM.
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 07:46 PM
  #58917  
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From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Danger12
I got them from NAPA as recommended
Originally Posted by naverillsn001
Thanks!!! That's a good suggestion. I was also thinking, since the body of the tps is plastic, maybe I could just cut the tps apart and pull it off around the screw, after which the bare screw will be easy to deal with.
Just be careful... the throttle body is aluminum so it's easy to marr depending on what you're using to cut the thick plastic of that TPS.
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 07:49 PM
  #58918  
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From: York PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre I6
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Originally Posted by naverillsn001
Thanks!!! That's a good suggestion. I was also thinking, since the body of the tps is plastic, maybe I could just cut the tps apart and pull it off around the screw, after which the bare screw will be easy to deal with.
Don't forget to pick up a new TB gasket!
Old Sep 26, 2017 | 09:04 PM
  #58919  
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From: west chester, pa
Year: 1999
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What I do often in the past is to grind the head of the screw down until it's gone but carefully don't touch the plastic body. Then pull the TPS out. Now u got plenty of room to clamp the use grips on


However I also had done the method of using vise grips on the head several times. Don't use one of those big ones. Get a smaller one.
Old Sep 28, 2017 | 02:07 PM
  #58920  
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From: Tampa, FL
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
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Here's a weird one: After much delay, I finally replaced the rubber seal where the driveshaft enters the transmission. It had been leaking fluid. It stopped leaking for a few days, then started again, so I'm unhappy about that. But what's really weird is that suddenly my trans fluid level is much higher. Before the new seal, it was right in the safe zone. Now, it's above max. I know how to check it (level ground, warm engine, engine running, etc.) and I added no fluid after putting in the seal. Is it possible I did something that raised the pressure somehow and is inflating the fluid level reading, or rather that the old seal was somehow making the fluid level read low?



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