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XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Anderson, SC
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Have you tried lubricating it? Had that kind of issue with my doors and hatch locks. Gave a squirt of Liquid Wrench chain lube I had in each lock and now they're working like new. Can't hurt to try some kind of lube. Maybe Blaster even.
Also do you have a lot of weight on your key ring?
Also do you have a lot of weight on your key ring?
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,578
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
87 XJ 4.0. Sometimes won't start. It'll fire every other time it sounds but won't start. I get it to start by unplugging the CPS, turning the key on and back off, plug CPS back in and then it'll start. I've replaced the CPS twice in the last 3-4 months. Could I possibly got a bad sensor 2 times in a row? Could something else be messing with the CPS?
More years ago than I like to remember a friend of mine's dad who was a motor pool Sgt. warned me about having too much weight on the ignition key ring. Said the constant movement of the weight on the ignition key could cause a short. Made a mental note of it. A week or so later when I started the vehicle ('64 Chevy p/u) I noticed a wisp of smoke coming out from around the key. Who would of thought?
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 3,683
Likes: 8
From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If the front was level with the back or just a bit lower that would be good? If so you can measure front and back from the top of the axle tube up to the frame. Make up the difference in the front with a coil spring spacer. If you weren't looking to eventually lift it I'd go another route.
Trying to replace my TPS, and one of the two Torx screws (the one closer to the engine) is seized, and stripped. Any ideas how to get it out? The screw head is too thin to lock vice grips onto, and I doubt there's enough clearance back there to get a drill in to do an ez-out. Counting on you guys to have a brilliant solution.
Moderator of Jeeps
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 21,029
Likes: 3
From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Trying to replace my TPS, and one of the two Torx screws (the one closer to the engine) is seized, and stripped. Any ideas how to get it out? The screw head is too thin to lock vice grips onto, and I doubt there's enough clearance back there to get a drill in to do an ez-out. Counting on you guys to have a brilliant solution.
Thanks!!! That's a good suggestion. I was also thinking, since the body of the tps is plastic, maybe I could just cut the tps apart and pull it off around the screw, after which the bare screw will be easy to deal with.
Last edited by naverillsn001; Sep 26, 2017 at 07:25 PM.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Just be careful... the throttle body is aluminum so it's easy to marr depending on what you're using to cut the thick plastic of that TPS.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 2,929
Likes: 5
From: York PA
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Litre I6
What I do often in the past is to grind the head of the screw down until it's gone but carefully don't touch the plastic body. Then pull the TPS out. Now u got plenty of room to clamp the use grips on
However I also had done the method of using vise grips on the head several times. Don't use one of those big ones. Get a smaller one.
However I also had done the method of using vise grips on the head several times. Don't use one of those big ones. Get a smaller one.
Here's a weird one: After much delay, I finally replaced the rubber seal where the driveshaft enters the transmission. It had been leaking fluid. It stopped leaking for a few days, then started again, so I'm unhappy about that. But what's really weird is that suddenly my trans fluid level is much higher. Before the new seal, it was right in the safe zone. Now, it's above max. I know how to check it (level ground, warm engine, engine running, etc.) and I added no fluid after putting in the seal. Is it possible I did something that raised the pressure somehow and is inflating the fluid level reading, or rather that the old seal was somehow making the fluid level read low?




