Screw it, I couldn't resist ordering it. Come what may.

 

HAHA!

 

I know, I'm bad. I got a crap ton of self etching primer and semi gloss spray paint. Just give me a target.

 

How can I make sure my axle is totally aligned under my unibody during my track bar installation?

 

Use a plumb Bob or make a couple out of some string and a big nut or something of the like. Hang it from the fender and see where it touches on the tire, then use a ratchet strap attached from the driver's side of the frame and attach it to the passenger side of the axle.. Or sometimes you can just bump the buddy into place.

 

I had that fuel pressure problem, and learned here that it was probably a bad fuel pressure regular (check valve). Another poster here with a 96 offered a link to the one he bought, which amazons fitment tool swears is for my model. Put it in, no improvement. I’ve tried a variety of solutions, finally it occurred to me to write the seller on amazon and ask if the one he sells is for the fuel rail or the tank (some 96s have one, Some the other). lo and behold, he says it’s for the rail, and mine is in the tank, so I installed the wrong part. Now I’m calling official mopar parts people all over, and giving them my VIN, and they all say the only FPR they show for my VIN is the one on the rail. Anybody know the right part number for the IN TANK fpr for a 96 xj?

 

Unless something has changed recently all fuel pump components for a '96 are in one unit. They can be gotten cheaper. Just happen to have this site saved in case.
https://www.partsgeek.com/xc28jpd-je...ad=11620898063

 

I have the "air only blowing from defrost" problem. Read old threads to find the vacuum leak. Have a rotten line running from firewall to the canister in the bumper. My question is, where the vacuum line goes into the firewall, how do I get it out? I pulled on it and it comes out about 1.5-2 inches but then feels stuck. Should I just cut it off and leave a few inches in the firewall? Is the line I'm pulling on attached to something on the other side of the firewall?

 

When i retorqued the bearing caps after doing my rms i noticed that a slight tick/knock that i had is now gone. Am i crazy or is it somehow related?

 

Try it and see. If the line coming out of the firewall is preserved enough, you can just couple the new line into it. If it doesn't work, then go inside and pull it out - might be able to fish behind your air box for it, but more than likely it's feeding INTO the airbox itself.

Ockham's Razor would suggest it is related.

 

I know this thread gets a lot of views. Can someone help with a suspension issue on another thread I have?

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/help-front-suspension-239236/

i'm getting a popping/grinding noise while turning right and also while coming to a stop at low speeds.

i had the noise, replaced parts, and now still have it. Looking for more insight.

List of parts replaced
upper and lower ball joints
axle u-joints
whel bearings
drag link
TRE's
and steering stabilizer.
I also removed my front sway bar for the time being while I wait for my new end links to arrive.

96xj 150k 2" lift.

 

have you had someone turn the steering wheel to the right while your underneath looking for when the pop happens? Let someone you trust do it, don't want them to put it gear while your down there haha

 

Hey. Does anyone have the reference chart for comparing caster at the spring plate to actual caster? The page I had saved no longer works and I cant seem to find it again.

 

i can only get it to replicate the popping while it is in motion. I tried turning it back and forth while I'm in one spot and it doesn't make a noise. Someone mentioned the shock bushings. I didn't think to check those but I will.

 

Nope.... if anyone (or you) does find it again though, post it up. I'd like a copy myself.