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Old Jan 20, 2017 | 05:54 AM
  #57406  
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I was really hoping to avoid the SYE (242) which is one of many reasons I chose the 3".
If you're looking for better options than a HnT, have you checked out Tom Woods? They have a kit that includes a new output shaft, seals, rear bearing, and a driveshaft...

http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242Jeepap...n27spline.html

Originally Posted by 95Cherokee
Anyone have the link to the write up about how to modify your front turn signal so the entire thing lights up instead of just the top?

On a related note, the search feature here really SUCKS. If you search ...........for instance, "turn signal mod", every thread with any of those words comes up, I don't have the time to search dozens of threads, some with up to 750,000 posts in them. Using the "advanced" feature to narrow search only narrows the search by a little.
Are you talking about the corner lens? The bottom part of that is a reflector. If you're going to modify that so it lights up, you'll have to put a reflector somewhere else in that vicinity to stay DOT legal.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 07:27 AM
  #57407  
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i have a rust hole directly under the front seats crossmember. i heard they're a pain to remove. what's the best thing to do here? clean and cut out the rust from under the jeep and weld there? the crossmember itself is solid and has 0 rust, only the floor under it seems affected. if i want to try and remove it, is it spot welded?
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 10:50 AM
  #57408  
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Originally Posted by Cane
i have a rust hole directly under the front seats crossmember. i heard they're a pain to remove. what's the best thing to do here? clean and cut out the rust from under the jeep and weld there? the crossmember itself is solid and has 0 rust, only the floor under it seems affected. if i want to try and remove it, is it spot welded?
Yes, it has tabs that connect it to the trans tunnel and inner rocker (one spot each) and a bunch along the floor. Have you peeled back the carpet to look or are you just looking underneath? If there's a tiny rust hole under the seat crossmembers there's going to be rust creeping into the spot welds on the floor, plus 70% of it is over the frame rail
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 11:27 AM
  #57409  
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Originally Posted by stormin651
Hello, newbie here, even though I'm old, lol. Great forum, and I like the idea of this Ask the Question thread.

The problem: 1990 Cherokee 4.0 2-door, 4x4, Sport (I think) with 4" RE lift. It had been mostly parked for a couple years. Installed a SYE last spring and soon after started experiencing a loud clunk while under acceleration or climbing a hill, that shakes the whole rig. It happened in 2wd on the rear axle, and to further test, pulled the rear drive shaft and it occurred even more frequently on the front axle. Checked and replaced u-joints, control arm bushings and did a front alignment. The clunk only became more frequent. Over Thanksgiving weekend we put in a t-case rebuild kit and new chain. Hallelujah! The clunk disappeared! But this week while climbing some steep terrain the clunk returned, but only when climbing steep grades. We think it is coming from the t-case, as that seemed to fix the problem for a while. Any ideas?
I must have an extremely rare problem, or my earlier post might be invisible. Anyone else had a problem similar to this? Any help would be appreciated. TIA
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 12:26 PM
  #57410  
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From: Southern Oregon
Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
If you're looking for better options than a HnT, have you checked out Tom Woods? They have a kit that includes a new output shaft, seals, rear bearing, and a driveshaft...

http://www.4xshaft.com/SYE/242Jeepap...n27spline.html
I thought that there were only H/T available for the 242, that changes things a bit especially since I didn't grab the driveshaft out of the jeep i pulled the D44 from which I was planning on swapping in at the same time as the lift.
Thank you.

However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 01:14 PM
  #57411  
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Originally Posted by 95Cherokee
With the amount of coolant I lose, roughly about 10-16 ounce every 100 miles, my engine would have been toast long ago if the coolant were getting into the oil.
Any many oil changes, never saw the slightest bit of coolant in the oil, my coolant just vanishes into thin air.
Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Then it's probably evaporating. Could be a bad radiator cap. Fluid boils at a higher temperature when it's pressurized, and the system should be at 16psi
See this is why we keep this guy around^

Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I was really hoping to avoid the SYE (242) which is one of many reasons I chose the 3".
Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I thought that there were only H/T available for the 242, that changes things a bit especially since I didn't grab the driveshaft out of the jeep i pulled the D44 from which I was planning on swapping in at the same time as the lift.
Thank you.

However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
What's wrong with a H&T? Plenty of people run them and they're not that weak?

Last edited by rcguymike; Jan 22, 2017 at 08:19 PM. Reason: Can't spell...
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 01:20 PM
  #57412  
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l HO
Question 4X4 Conversion

Hell Fellow Jeep Heads!

I have a 97 Cherokee Sport and I would like to upgrade to 4wd. As of now, it has a dead axle up front.

Does a bolt on axle/ conversion kit/ combination exist, or does it required welding and fabrication in all cases?

Thanks in advance for all of your advise!
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 01:44 PM
  #57413  
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From: Parham, ON
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Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by PNWjeeper
I thought that there were only H/T available for the 242, that changes things a bit especially since I didn't grab the driveshaft out of the jeep i pulled the D44 from which I was planning on swapping in at the same time as the lift.
Thank you.

However I'd still like to avoid an SYE if possible. Will the axle shims work without an SYE?
Y u no like Hack N Tap? You'll still need a driveshaft with a "complete" SYE kit.

As for shims, they're used to correct pinion angle to deal with U joint alignment. With a double cardan yoke you typically need to point the pinion UP, so the pinion and DS are basically straight (operating angle of nil on the single cardan). With two single cardans at either end of the DS you will need to point the pinion DOWN so that each U joint is at the same angle and in phase.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY

Originally Posted by BigJon9976
Hell Fellow Jeep Heads!

I have a 97 Cherokee Sport and I would like to upgrade to 4wd. As of now, it has a dead axle up front.

Does a bolt on axle/ conversion kit/ combination exist, or does it required welding and fabrication in all cases?

Thanks in advance for all of your advise!
The vehicle side is identical for 2WD and 4WD. You will require the transmission, transfer case, front axle, drive shafts, and a couple other incidental things like the shifter and interior trim.
You'll need almost an entire donor Jeep.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 01:51 PM
  #57414  
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Year: 1990
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
What's wrong with a H&T? Plenty of people run them and they're not that week?
I'm not worried about it being weak. This isn't a dedicated trail rig, currently it doesn't get driven much at all, let alone on the trails, as my work provides me with a vehicle. So it's not something that gets off-road often, when it does it's nothing extreme, I just want it a little more capable then it currently is and to ride and act as if the 3" was a stock option. Also I don't feel comfortable doing a H/T myself.

Don't get me wrong I'm not trying to cut corners on this I mean I'm going to be spending roughly $2200 on the lift itself. I want to make sure I know as much as possible before diving in and realizing I ****ed up somewhere. My overall plan is to keep this thing going for as long as possible while being able to do and go where I want when I want with it.

So once aging I ask, will the shims work if I don't have an SYE? I for one cannot see a reason why they wouldn't but that's why I'm here asking people who know more then me.

Last edited by PNWjeeper; Jan 20, 2017 at 01:55 PM.
Old Jan 20, 2017 | 02:32 PM
  #57415  
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Thanks @Salad!


I thought this was the case, but wasn't sure. Thanks for your knowledge!

What would be the recommended axle to bolt in?

Thanks again!


Old Jan 20, 2017 | 02:41 PM
  #57416  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
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Originally Posted by BigJon9976
What would be the recommended axle to bolt in?
All 4WD XJs, MJ, ZJs, and TJs share a D30 (Dana 30) front axle, but some are stronger than others.

You'll want a '94-99 front axle from a Cherokee if you'll be taking it offroad. If it's staying on the street, a '92-01 axle will be just fine from an XJ, ZJ, or TJ.

The driveshaft will need to be from a 4WD XJ with the same transmission as yours (manual or auto).
Old Jan 21, 2017 | 03:51 AM
  #57417  
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So I bought a little oil lubed Craftsmen Compresor.

http://www.sears.com/3-gallon-1.0-hp...3&blockType=G3

$65 out the door and they gave me $20 bucks on the back end. Member of that shopyourway rewards program. Came with the accessories so I am all set to just blow stuff off like all this is really good for. My question is if I were to buy a 3/8" hose would it not work well with it. My thinking is that with the increased size of the hose it will empty the compressor quicker and might have less air volume coming out. Does that make any sense at all?

Thinking of one of these;

http://www.kmart.com/campbell-hausfe...W007794968002P

Now I know that the PVC will be a pain to handle but figure I will get this for free.

Or this one which will cost me about $6:

http://www.kmart.com/tekton-50-ft-x-...p-00910953000P

While I am thinking about this someday I would like to buy a big boy compressor. Any thoughts on this one?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...l?cm_vc=-10005

Last edited by Ralph77; Jan 21, 2017 at 03:53 AM.
Old Jan 21, 2017 | 08:24 AM
  #57418  
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No, I don't lick fish.
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From: Northern Kentucky
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Originally Posted by BigJon9976
Thanks @Salad!


I thought this was the case, but wasn't sure. Thanks for your knowledge!

What would be the recommended axle to bolt in?

Thanks again!


Where ya at in Florida? I just did the conversion last year and can help ya out if you need it.
Old Jan 21, 2017 | 08:26 AM
  #57419  
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From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Default

Originally Posted by stormin651
I must have an extremely rare problem, or my earlier post might be invisible. Anyone else had a problem similar to this? Any help would be appreciated. TIA
Sorry bud. I wouldn't say it's extremely rare, as I've heard people have this problem before, but I guess the people that HAVE had this problem just haven't seen it yet. Hang in there, man.
Old Jan 21, 2017 | 08:31 AM
  #57420  
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From: Northern New Mexico
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Ralph77
So I bought a little oil lubed Craftsmen Compresor.

http://www.sears.com/3-gallon-1.0-hp...3&blockType=G3

$65 out the door and they gave me $20 bucks on the back end. Member of that shopyourway rewards program. Came with the accessories so I am all set to just blow stuff off like all this is really good for. My question is if I were to buy a 3/8" hose would it not work well with it. My thinking is that with the increased size of the hose it will empty the compressor quicker and might have less air volume coming out. Does that make any sense at all?

Thinking of one of these;

http://www.kmart.com/campbell-hausfe...W007794968002P

Now I know that the PVC will be a pain to handle but figure I will get this for free.

Or this one which will cost me about $6:

http://www.kmart.com/tekton-50-ft-x-...p-00910953000P

While I am thinking about this someday I would like to buy a big boy compressor. Any thoughts on this one?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pro...l?cm_vc=-10005
what do you plan on usimg the compressor for?



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