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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old May 31, 2015 | 09:56 PM
  #49906  
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Originally Posted by thestiegmyster
checked the plugs and tightened the one near the fire wall, still a rough idle
what's the brand on wires and plugs?
Old May 31, 2015 | 10:12 PM
  #49907  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
what's the brand on wires and plugs?
I'd be more curious about the quality of the cap and rotor, and whether or not the PCM was cleared recently
Old May 31, 2015 | 10:36 PM
  #49908  
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It even does it when I'm the only one in it. Mostly happens on inclines going up and down.

Last edited by Outlaw Star; Jun 9, 2015 at 10:00 PM.
Old May 31, 2015 | 10:51 PM
  #49909  
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Originally Posted by Bishop75
It even dose it when I'm the only one in it. Mostly happens on inclines going up and down.
Could be that the internal hose on the fuel pump is cracked/split/deteriorated.
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Last edited by Outlaw Star; Jun 9, 2015 at 10:00 PM.
Old May 31, 2015 | 10:56 PM
  #49910  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
I'd be more curious about the quality of the cap and rotor, and whether or not the PCM was cleared recently
champion copper plugs. not sure what the wires are. the cap and rotor have 25000 miles on them so I didn't touch them.
Old May 31, 2015 | 11:14 PM
  #49911  
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Originally Posted by thestiegmyster
champion copper plugs. not sure what the wires are. the cap and rotor have 25000 miles on them so I didn't touch them.
Do you know the recommended replace interval for cap and rotor?

30,000 miles if they're good ones like factory.
Old May 31, 2015 | 11:20 PM
  #49912  
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Originally Posted by thestiegmyster
champion copper plugs. not sure what the wires are. the cap and rotor have 25000 miles on them so I didn't touch them.
What cruiser said above/below. But good choice on the Coppers. These motors like those plugs

Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do you know the recommended replace interval for cap and rotor?

30,000 miles if they're good ones like factory.
Old Jun 1, 2015 | 06:21 PM
  #49913  
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So i was wheeling today and hit a rut real freakin hard and now my fuel gauge doesn't work. Any ideas on what I knocked loose/broke? Thanks
Old Jun 1, 2015 | 06:53 PM
  #49914  
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Connection at the tank? The float off the sender?
Old Jun 2, 2015 | 06:21 AM
  #49915  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do you know the recommended replace interval for cap and rotor?

30,000 miles if they're good ones like factory.
lol..... Didn't know that..... I guess it's long past time for me to do mine then.
Old Jun 2, 2015 | 06:44 AM
  #49916  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
lol..... Didn't know that..... I guess it's long past time for me to do mine then.
Buy parts with brass contacts; not aluminum
Old Jun 2, 2015 | 06:47 AM
  #49917  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Buy parts with brass contacts; not aluminum
Thanks. That part, I did know though.
Old Jun 2, 2015 | 08:00 AM
  #49918  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
lol..... Didn't know that..... I guess it's long past time for me to do mine then.
Plugs, cap and rotor every 30,000. Wires every 60,000.

We found if you did that, the plug wires would fail before 60,000, so did it all at 30,000 to keep our customers happy.
Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:37 AM
  #49919  
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98 xj 2.5l 2wd here. bought the jeep a few months ago and I'm doing all the touchups to make sure the maintenance is done. Figured I would change my fuel filter, as it looked all ****ty. Turns out my year jeep isn't supposed to have an inline fuel filter, which it clearly does. Should I just take it out and connect the line without a filter, or replace it?
Old Jun 2, 2015 | 09:59 AM
  #49920  
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Originally Posted by moparchero
98 xj 2.5l 2wd here. bought the jeep a few months ago and I'm doing all the touchups to make sure the maintenance is done. Figured I would change my fuel filter, as it looked all ****ty. Turns out my year jeep isn't supposed to have an inline fuel filter, which it clearly does. Should I just take it out and connect the line without a filter, or replace it?

Replace it!


You want all that "****" in your fuel injectors ???????



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