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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Mar 28, 2015 | 09:59 AM
  #49156  
michiganman's Avatar
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From: Dorr ,Mi.
Year: 1999
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Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
RTV should not be necessary for a good seal. When reinstalling the intake, it often does not fully seat on guide pins and is difficult to notice. The air gap ends up being underneath intake where it is hard to see and appears to be fully seated. Just loosen it and get it seated flush. Those intake bolts are only supposed to have about 17 foot pounds. And a cone washer that allows for expansion contraction. If too tight, intake/exhaust can crack.
Checked and double check to make sure it's seated properly. Thx for the tourque specs will double check that as well.
Old Mar 28, 2015 | 10:07 AM
  #49157  
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
RTV should not be necessary for a good seal.
When reinstalling the intake, it often does not fully seat on guide pins and is difficult to notice. The air gap ends up being underneath intake where it is hard to see and appears to be fully seated. Just loosen it and get it seated flush.
Those intake bolts are only supposed to have about 17 foot pounds. And a cone washer that allows for expansion contraction. If too tight, intake/exhaust can crack.
Correct. It's improper installation causing the problem, not the need for gooping crap between parts.
Old Mar 28, 2015 | 11:22 PM
  #49158  
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From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
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Cruiser, I have a renix question.

I've done some searching but haven't found a good answer. Eventually I plan to replace the abs in my 89 with a regular Booster.

My question is how do I release the pressure in the bendex system? I've heard pump the peddle 30 times to just Crack the sob and duck.
Old Mar 29, 2015 | 08:18 AM
  #49159  
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Originally Posted by my89xj
Cruiser, I have a renix question.

I've done some searching but haven't found a good answer. Eventually I plan to replace the abs in my 89 with a regular Booster.

My question is how do I release the pressure in the bendex system? I've heard pump the peddle 30 times to just Crack the sob and duck.
I personally have never worked on an ABS system.

I have some manuals though and could look it up later. Gotta scoot this morning.

Gonna do the WJ booster?

PM me to remind me to do it please.
Old Mar 29, 2015 | 03:57 PM
  #49160  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

I personally have never worked on an ABS system.

I have some manuals though and could look it up later. Gotta scoot this morning.

Gonna do the WJ booster?

PM me to remind me to do it please.
I plan to swap in Booster from a 95 for now.
Old Mar 29, 2015 | 07:30 PM
  #49161  
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Originally Posted by my89xj
I plan to swap in Booster from a 95 for now.
If you already have one, that's fine. I've done both.

Key off: Pump the brake pedal 40 to 50 times to discharge the system.
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 06:42 AM
  #49162  
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From: Lapeer, Murder Mitten
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Someone else might want/need to chime in here : https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f9/joining-club-208118/
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 08:06 AM
  #49163  
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Originally Posted by Larry's XJ
Someone else might want/need to chime in here : https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f9/joining-club-208118/
Moved it to Chat. Thanks Larry.
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 11:44 AM
  #49164  
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From: Manassas, VA
Year: 1999
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I have no sound coming from my passenger door speaker. I measure 5.67 volts at both terminals on the back of the speaker when they're both connected. With them disconnected I only read 5.67 volts through one of them and no power through the other, which seems right since I have power and ground. I know there is no short because when I tested the continuity I got no ability for electricity to flow between them. I also know the speaker isn't blown since I tested it with a 9V battery.... Since I have power I don't think it's a clipped door wire. Any ideas?
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #49165  
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Originally Posted by OP_Rover
I have no sound coming from my passenger door speaker. I measure 5.67 volts at both terminals on the back of the speaker when they're both connected. With them disconnected I only read 5.67 volts through one of them and no power through the other, which seems right since I have power and ground. I know there is no short because when I tested the continuity I got no ability for electricity to flow between them. I also know the speaker isn't blown since I tested it with a 9V battery.... Since I have power I don't think it's a clipped door wire. Any ideas?
If you have stock wires running to your speakers, I'd suggest replacing them regardless. Odds are that it'll solve your problem. Just because the wires aren't shorted to one another doesn't mean one of them isn't shorted to ground or some other wire. If you can get the speakers to make noise by opening the door or messing about with the wire harness, it's clearly a wire problem.

There's always a chance that your head unit or amp is bad, but if you're getting voltage on one lead, it's unlikely. My money is on a short in the other wire.
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 03:31 PM
  #49166  
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Two problems:
EDIT: A suspension shop installed a new rivet for me and didn't charge anything. Sounds like a good place to get an alignment.

1. I broke a clamp rivet on my uninstalled new leaf pack. Can I weld the clamp to the 'stud' that the broken rivet left behind or do I need to figure out how to rerivet? If I do need to install a new rivet, what special tools do I need?


EDIT: Regarding below... I'm going to replace the head. Gonna have to drive the Jeep some though, but I'll minimize the amount as much as possible. I have gunk inside the valve cover and I can smell burning coolant when I start the Jeep with the windows down. Basically, I have all the symptons except low old pressure. I believe the oil pressure is still good because the oil pump, rms, and seals were recently replaced.

2. The Jeep runs like **** when I start it after getting it up to operating temperature. For example, if I start it anytime between 5min and 3hours after bringing it up to full temp, it'll start with a clang, clunk, or otherwise bad sound. Then it'll idle like it's missing on a cylinder for 30 sec, maybe a min.

Oil Pressure is fine... 40psi at idle, 55-65 under load.
Oil level is high, like an extra quart has been added.
Oil is black like normal. I run 5w-30 full synthetic. It seems like it's still oil to me.
Coolant loss is difficult to determine. I have a leak at the disconnects, so I'm always loosing a little coolant. Coolant is greenish brown, but mostly green... due for a flush and change.

Recently I've replaced all spark plugs, the coil pack, and injectors. While it runs smoother, it hasn't affected the ****tyness at startup.

I'm thinking that I should replace the head with a 0331 Tupy, but are there other possible causes to this problem?

Also, while the beast is apart, what sensors can I replace that might help with performance? I'm at 138k miles and assume all sensors except the O2 and coolant temp sensor are original. If I pull the head, I'll clean the throttle body as well.

Thanks in advance!

Last edited by Snajo; Mar 31, 2015 at 10:20 PM.
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 06:56 PM
  #49167  
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Year: 1996
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Default Adjustable Ball Joints

So I just took my STOCK jeep in for an alignment, there is wear on the inside of the tires, they said the couldn't align it and it needed 1% and 1 3/4% offset ball joints. I'm confused as hell. I know the PO personally and it's never been wrecked or take off road. I keep hearing that adjustables are a pain and try to avoid them, I've searched over and over again with no definite answer....Help a fellow jeeper out, this is the last thing that I'm having issues with.....
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 07:58 PM
  #49168  
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Originally Posted by MajorCollateralDamage
So I just took my STOCK jeep in for an alignment, there is wear on the inside of the tires, they said the couldn't align it and it needed 1% and 1 3/4% offset ball joints. I'm confused as hell. I know the PO personally and it's never been wrecked or take off road. I keep hearing that adjustables are a pain and try to avoid them, I've searched over and over again with no definite answer....Help a fellow jeeper out, this is the last thing that I'm having issues with.....
What are the camber specs they got when it was on the machine?
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 09:44 PM
  #49169  
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Year: 1987
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Originally Posted by MajorCollateralDamage
So I just took my STOCK jeep in for an alignment, there is wear on the inside of the tires, they said the couldn't align it and it needed 1% and 1 3/4% offset ball joints. I'm confused as hell. I know the PO personally and it's never been wrecked or take off road. I keep hearing that adjustables are a pain and try to avoid them, I've searched over and over again with no definite answer....Help a fellow jeeper out, this is the last thing that I'm having issues with.....
If you mean 1 degree then you should be fine. They told me the same thing and my tires are wearing fine. I'd check for play in them. Simple to do. Also make sure you rotate the tires. I do it with every oil change.
Old Mar 30, 2015 | 10:15 PM
  #49170  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
What are the camber specs they got when it was on the machine?
That's the thing, they didn't show me it on a machine, they put a leveler on it and said that it was off by "a lot". I'm just now learning about suspension and have been lurking the forums trying to see what I can find. The guy said that was how you adjust camber on that Jeep. I'm tempted to take it to another shop and get an opinion after I replace the track bar....Which I'm not sure if it has anything to do with my issue. Thank you for your response.



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