I don't believe that is the case. The positive and negative are supposed to be isolated through the starter to prevent that from happening. Maybe the solenoid on the starter is is bad and causing it to ground out. It didn't try to crank over so I didn't think it would be the starter but I might pull it out of there and take it in to get tested.

 

Why don't you go to junkyard get better gauge set ... install.?

BTW, your gas gauge is So BIG! - Is your tank big too?
... or is it like big feet?

 

lol, my junk yard has one but its got 150k more miles on it than mine, so i was gonna see if i could find one closer. figure it would be better.

 

Hi guys I bought a WJ knowing it had a trans leak, mechanic removed trans replaced gaskets. Idled for an hour with no leak but when I drove it it leaked bad. Have heard they can over-pressure and blow the gasket? Is it reasonable to fix or should I be looking for a junkyard transmission. Also, and don't know if this is related or not, when you accelerate it pulls briefly to the left, and when you let off it pulls briefly to the right. It's an 04 grand with auto trans 4x4 with low mileage. Any advice is appreciated!

 

Hmmm... that power loss has me a little stumped. I do think it's pointing to the fan motor though. Reason being is, the "stuck" motor is pulling more amps to try and get itself "unstuck" and drawing more power from the battery - which powers your fuel pump, injectors, and of course sends power to the computer as well. I don't know that the amp draw would be serious enough for that, BUT that's what I'm theorizing at this point.

Where are you located? I have one sitting in my garage with around the same amount of mileage as what's showing on yours right now.

 

I'm not sure about your tranny issue. Might want to head over to Grand Cherokee tech for that one...

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/

As far as your pulling issue, sounds like you have full-time 4wd and you're getting a little bit of yaw when you accel. Happens with FWD vehicles, but I don't know if AWD setups have the same issue.

 

Anybody know where I can get new steering box spacer bolts? They're grade 8 7/16-14 x 4". I've done some googling and can't seem to come up with anything at the local hardware stores, tractor supply etc.

 

you can change the mileage on the cluster before installing it to match yours.

 

It needs to be done in the presence of a certified inspector, or else it's a crime. Good luck finding one of them to sign off on it

There are some "for informational purposes only" videos and instructions out there. The hardest part is the tiny snap ring on the odometer shaft

 

Can find anything at Fastenal

Or McMaster Carr

 

When I put a full instrument cluster in my XJ it had 132,000 miles (actually 131,999) less than the original. I just put a sticker on the dash saying to add 132,000 miles. In the unlikely event I ever sell this vehicle, in NJ there is a mileage statement you can fill out with the true mileage. (Had to replace the original idiot-light cluster because it stopped working, don'tcha know. That's my story and I'm sticking with it. )

 

For some closure on my previous post, I installed a rebuilt NAPA alternator in the XJ today and everything is working fine. No more craziness in the instrument cluster. Dash reads 14V, voltmeter at the battery reads 14.1V. Now I just have to put the dash back together.

I don't have a belt tension gauge so just made the belt 'good and tight' and made sure it did not slip/squeal when the AC kicks on.

The local NAPA store actually beat the web site price by a few bucks ($120 vs. $134). The alternator carries a lifetime warranty - hopefully I won't spend my lifetime frequently swapping it out for replacements!

 

this might sound dumb, but i just recently figured out what the overdrive was on the jeep. i'm used to cars where you have an actual button to lock in overdrive. for the first time i tried to press very lightly on the brakes when driving on the highway and understood that it's like any other gear and you can't manually shift/lock in OD.

now my question is, let's say i want to overtake someone on the highway, should i press the brakes lightly to disengage overdrive and get my RPMs higher in order to accelerate, or just press on the gas pedal and let the tranny do its thing?

right now let's say i'm driving 65mph and want to overtake someone, i'll end up pressing the pedal all the way to the floor before getting any response, and when i finally do, after a couple seconds the RPMs go through the roof since the transmission shifts in order to accomodate the throttle input. a gear change will probably help with that, but before that happens i'd like to know how to properly use the aw4

 

You can't "lock in" OD. You shift to 3 on the shifter which disables OD. OD is defined as any gear ratio in the transmission that puts out the same or more revs as input. Sounds like you need to adjust your TV or kickdown cable.

I has question: what are these 2 wires?
'99 4L passenger side by headlight

Click here for full res

 

yeah i don't grasp the whole concept yet, but i'll get there. thanks for the tip about the adjustement, i'll do that