Have you scanned it for trouble codes?

Have you scanned it for trouble codes?

Nope. Could cause some nasty driveline vibes but certainly not oscillation of the front suspension.

I'd say 300k is generally considered high - not that you want to aim for something that high of course. Why the 1990-1992 range? You should know that the 1987-1990 generation has a lot of differences under the hood from a 1991. 1991-1995 are essentially identical.

 

Mostly cause ofor my budget unfortunately, I'm looking at a 1992 with 180k+ 3in lift only bad thing is no headliner and he's asking 2100. I'm trying to stick to under 2200, it most to hunt and take on fire trails and use its 4x4 when needed not going to be my daily driver if that helps....

 

Didn't think so, but I've heard of stranger things. Thanks

 

I got my 99 for less than $2000

 

I got my 96 for $free.99.


@salad, no I havent, I dont have any warning lights so I didnt think to try.

 

Got a stock "96 that I would like to do a modest lift on... 3" at most. Keep seeing these "Death Wobble" post. I'd like to lift mine but my kids will be driving it and do not want to do anything that would make this XJ dangerous.

So my "ask a question" is... just how common is the dreaded death wobble.

This xj has about 190k miles and 99% of those have just been normal city/highway driving.

 

Ok. I have three jeep Cherokees a 90 a 93 and a 95. My question is. Is their a better transfer case. My 99 have a full time on the shifter for 4 wheel drive the others have part time.. will the 1990 transfer case work in my 93 so I have full time when I want it..also is the rear energy and front axles better in the 99. They look different..

 

Headlight high beams flicker on and off over bumps, then I pull the dash out to replace the heater core and evaporator and put everything back together. Now the regular headlights flicker and the high beams work fine (so far). What's it sound like? I pulled the headlight switch out while I had the dash out and it wasn't melted and looked fine. Any ideas? Thanks

 

Could easily be a pending code that the PCM is hanging on to that will tell you the problem. The issue could be O2 sensor related, or the throttle position sensor, or a couple other things including ignition

Good question, however not really "OEM" since it's a lifted thing.

Death wobble is something that our Jeeps - and even newer models with a similar front end - develop as components wear. The actual problem is basically the entire front axle shakes side-to-side. Lifting these vehicles, and in turn increasing operating angles of the old components, is the most common cause. Things like the factory track bar do not last long when lifted - this is probably the #1 problem. It can also be set off by off-balance tires, with enough momentum behind them to force the axle to shake.

Basically, if you do things properly, your chances of getting death wobble are very very slim. At 190k it would be a decent investment to just replace bushings and joints up front anyway.

So you have four Jeeps? 1990 is different from 1993 and 1995 which have differences from 1999.

Transmission is very important too...

Multi function switch on the column?

 

Thanks for the input Salad. Will check/change out bearings and joints before any lift. Pardon the incorrect area posting

 

which one is that. I know when I try to use interval wipers the wiper switch piece that the lever slides into smokes. Does that also control the headlights?

 

Hey all.....I finished replacing my brake booster check valve, in hopes of that "fixing" my assumed vac leak causing my bogging down issue...to no avail. I have a couple pics I would like to show, but for now, a more pressing matter has come to my attention. I checked my fuses, for the first time since owning her for a month, my bad, I know...but I'm just learning, so....I find this! ....9 fuses are "wrong"!
(According to my owners manual at least)

1. Why would someone put a fuse in an open slot? (Two of my opens happen to have fuses in them) And vice versa?

2. With so many wrong ones, was the PO trying to make up for ampage? For example, I have two 30's in what is suppose to be a 15 and 20, but have open slots for what should be a 15 and 20? Get it?

3. Why havent I blown up yet??? Safe to drive still?

 

Anybody have a set of OEM fender flares for a 97-01? Don't need the mounting brackets.

Gonna be cutting em up so I don't want to drop coin for new repops. But before I start hitting the JYs, figured I'd see if anybody on here has a set laying around they wanna unload for a little $$$.

PM me.

 

Try the Classifieds section

First, make sure you're looking at them correctly. It isn't always obvious which number goes with each slot.

You could replace them all with factory amperage fuses. That would ensure your electrical system is safe, and you'd also find out if you have any shorts because the fuse would blow when that circuit is used.

 

Thanks NKOC, I did triple check both fuse houses, OM and took pics just to make sure. Is buying the fuses specifically used by the factory the only way to go? Like sensors? Or can I just buy a fuse from Napa or another auto store sufficient enough?