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Old Nov 6, 2016 | 04:42 PM
  #56806  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
It ll help if we knew the year of your jeep
Sorry it's a 2000 cherokee sport 4.0. I wiggled the brake switch and eureka everything works now!
Old Nov 6, 2016 | 05:09 PM
  #56807  
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Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
Quick question. Does the 96-98 Grand Cherokee alternator have the same connectors on the back as the 91 XJ? Basically the OBD1 XJs?
I don't know from personal experience, but Rockauto shows the same 90-Amp alternator used on 1993-1998 Grand Cherokee , 1991-1998 Cherokee, 1991-1992 Comanche, and 1997-1998 Dakota.
Old Nov 6, 2016 | 05:31 PM
  #56808  
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Originally Posted by Rambler65

I don't know from personal experience, but Rockauto shows the same 90-Amp alternator used on 1993-1998 Grand Cherokee , 1991-1998 Cherokee, 1991-1992 Comanche, and 1997-1998 Dakota.
Exactly what I needed! Thank ya sir!
Old Nov 6, 2016 | 09:45 PM
  #56809  
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Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by rcguymike
So I get a metal on metal type squeak above 3krpm and when revving, my serpentine belt and idler pulley both have a matching wear mark. Does that mean I need a new idler pulley?



Do the idler pulley and the tensioner (?) pulley at the same time. Theyre like $15 each and not hard to replace.
Old Nov 6, 2016 | 10:07 PM
  #56810  
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I have a 95 cherokee i drove it to work then home ,shut it off smelled like melted plastic ..the next morning it wouldnt start just crank and crank the fuel pump isnt working fuses and relays are good and the pump isnt more then a year and a half old..a month ago it got to where when you turn the heat blower on it would kill the engine but it would start back after 30 min.or so what could cause this?
Old Nov 6, 2016 | 10:44 PM
  #56811  
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^
Multiple issues all electrical, one thing at a time:
The burning plastic could be the ignition switch/connector but it could also be the pump died and took some of the wiring with it. Does it still have the ballast resistor?
Old Nov 7, 2016 | 06:19 AM
  #56812  
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Anyone? No issues with heat-soak-like symptoms on early H.Os? I know the "fix" for heat soak on the 00-01s, but seeing as how early HO motors didn't come with the heat shielding AND I've never had an issue before, I'm kinda stumped on what's causing this.



Originally Posted by 1991Jeep_Man
Quick question. Does the 96-98 Grand Cherokee alternator have the same connectors on the back as the 91 XJ? Basically the OBD1 XJs?
Yup... case in point, the alternator I just put in is a 136 amp model for a 1998 XJ.
Old Nov 7, 2016 | 07:27 AM
  #56813  
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another question about the blower motor and the squirrel cage. i gave up trying to save the old one and found on rockauto a cage for XJs up to 93, that's why i couldn't find it before for a 96, it wasn't listed.

the same blower motors are listed for the 93 and for the 96, so i guess the cage will fit, but am i missing something?

https://www.rockauto.com/fr/moreinfo...=1180178&jsn=1
Old Nov 9, 2016 | 03:48 PM
  #56814  
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My new(ish) Dayco idler pulley is squeaking already. Think it's bad or have I not got the adjustment correct?
Old Nov 9, 2016 | 03:50 PM
  #56815  
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Originally Posted by NewbJeep
My new(ish) Dayco idler pulley is squeaking already. Think it's bad or have I not got the adjustment correct?
Yes. Definitely.
Old Nov 9, 2016 | 04:18 PM
  #56816  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Yes. Definitely.
Glad I went and checked the adjustment. Some dummy left the radiator cap off last night Thankfully I haven't driven it much...

Still have some adjusting to do
Old Nov 9, 2016 | 09:06 PM
  #56817  
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Originally Posted by NewbJeep
Glad I went and checked the adjustment. Some dummy left the radiator cap off last night Thankfully I haven't driven it much...

Still have some adjusting to do
sonsa*****es......
Old Nov 10, 2016 | 06:41 AM
  #56818  
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Does the head need to be removed to replace valves?

Been chasing a #6 cylinder misfire down, and will be pulling the valvecover off this weekend to look at the valvetrain and change some seals.

Edit: or valve springs? Been reading it could possibly be weak springs.

Last edited by kuzican; Nov 10, 2016 at 07:00 AM.
Old Nov 10, 2016 | 06:44 AM
  #56819  
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Originally Posted by kuzican
Does the head need to be removed to replace valves? Been chasing a #6 cylinder misfire down, and will be pulling the valvecover off this weekend to look at the valvetrain and change some seals.
yes
Old Nov 10, 2016 | 07:04 AM
  #56820  
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Originally Posted by XJwonders
yes
Darn. Trying ti avoid that. Because then i'll need to get a new head and new head studs.



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