As has been pointed out, yes you do need to pull the head to replace valves. First, check compression on that cylinder. If it's good then the valve is sealing OK. No sense on doing all that work if you don't have to.

Valve springs and seals can be replaced without head removal if you use compressed air or the rope trick (insert coil of rope into cylinder and crank pistion up) to hold the valve in place while you work.

 

kuzican, have you tried the water thing yet?

 

Honest answer. Afraid to. Really really don't want to pull the head off again. A few years ago I overheated on the beach and warped the head. Had a machine shop clean, check, and prep the head. New fel pro head gasket. They said the valves were good at the time. And after i put it all back together again there was no misfire. It started about a year after that.

Yes. No difference.


Also, going to replace the ignition coil today. We shall see.

 

is there a trick to getting this carrier out? It's practically half way out it just wont let go. I watched a video of a guy doing this on youtube and it came out nice and easy..

 

When I've done my D30 and C8.25s I put a box wrench on one of the ring gear bolts and used a 2' pry bar to pop the carrier out. Like this: http://jeep-xj.info/HowtoD30AxlesSeals.htm

 

Thank you. This is my first time in any differential...ever lol.

 

Got my rear axle free and loose while replacing leafs. Should I lube the slip joint while things are swinging or leave it alone? Seems to move pretty freely.

 

Possibly dumb question, but is my transmission dipstick supposed to be straight or kinked. On my 2000 sport its kinked but on my sister's 2001 sport its straight

 

A little kinky never hurt anyone wait...what were we talking about?

 

Yes.

 

i recently replaced my coolant temp sensor and i figured it fixed my problem (fan wouldn't kick on when it reached 217)

with the new clutch i rarely see above 210, but it seems that yesterday that happened because with an obdII reader i found out the jeep was around 230. the gauge showed 210 and with an IR temp gun i confirmed it was 230 at the housing.

also had a p0118 code for CTS circuit high. no clue how long it's been there, but since i cleared it yesterday, it didn't come back (no unusual readings this morning when i checked while going to work)

is it possible an air bubble in the system causes weird readings like this? what stumps me is that the sensor reads the right temperature (IR gun and obdII match), therefore the computer should know it's over 217, but it still didn't kick the fan on?

 

I tried the box wrench trick and the rag trick and prybars and nothing worked on mine. Even had a local guy from one of the other forums come to my house to show me how easy it was and he couldn't get it either.

Ended up taking it to a shop with a diff spreader.

The GOOD news for you is that I suspect that this XJ was in a more-serious-than-a-fender-bender accident based on some of the things that I've found, and that my front axle is slightly bent. But try the rag trick if the box wrench thing doesn't work.

 

Might be a newer one. My 1999 and 2001 have a twist in them

 

P0118 doesn't mean it's "hot", it means there's a short somewhere in the circuit. To trigger that code the PCM is getting back supply voltage instead of something else. Test the new sensor with a multimeter.

As for confirming 230 at the thermostat housing I'm not sure. I'm tempted to suggest that either the gauge sending unit is toast or the thermometer isn't calibrated right. Doesn't make sense that the dash gauge would show an improvement after you did that other work but be faulty

 

S'what I get for drinking and thinking last night. This morning it was "Of course!"