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Old Jul 17, 2016 | 01:43 AM
  #55321  
TFitzPat87's Avatar
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From: Detroit, MI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Never going to "balance" a tire that is out of round, it's trashed. When is the last time you changed the shocks?
Just about a year ago.
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 03:21 AM
  #55322  
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From: Snohomish County, WA
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by salad
Ain't got no Renix here.
Didn't you contribute to some of those pages? you're name is in there.

Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do bofum.
Originally Posted by cruiser54
Do bofum.
yeah I did ' do bofum'

Was really asking about the holes/ difference between your instruction page, and what I encountered.

Guess it doesn't really matter. I think It will be just fine.

ALSO --
I did the Distributor Indexing ...

My block has a different scale than the one in your pictures, So, I'm gonna use the hole/ tube as the 0 zero

so, thanks

-- Also, You are welcome to use the attached pics on your site. I'll try to get a better one of the Harm. balancer / indicator scale in AM
Attached Thumbnails XJ Ask the Question Thread-dscn0128-cap-w-cut-out.jpg   XJ Ask the Question Thread-dscn0129-cap-dist.jpg  
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 07:43 AM
  #55323  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by RacerX

Didn't you contribute to some of those pages? you're name is in there.
Executive Producer lol
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 08:37 AM
  #55324  
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From: ☼ Blackhole Sun
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Originally Posted by TFitzPat87
Just about a year ago.
Are the wheels true?
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 11:10 AM
  #55325  
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From: Detroit, MI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
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Originally Posted by Turbo X_J
Are the wheels true?
Probably not. I actually have new wheels coming in already, and plan on grabbing new tires tomorrow. If they don't get them balanced right, I'll go back to the shop every day until they're riding smooth.
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 06:26 PM
  #55326  
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Help with rear leaf spring shackle!

Right now I'm in the process of putting a 2" lift On a stock 2001xj. I put 2" cool spacers on the front and attempted to put the 1-2" adjustable shackles on the rear. Ran into a few problems.
Mainly couldn't figure out how to drop the leaf springs enough to fit that longer shackle in.
I jacked the jeep up, took both tires off, put jack stands under the frame. Unbolted both rear shackles from the frame and leaf springs. Tried jamming the new longer ones in and couldn't get enough clearance between the frame and leaf springs. I'm gonna try unbolt the shocks and possibly the front of the leaf springs from the frame as well. Hopefully that will add some droop to the axel.
Also found 1 bolt in the shackle mount area on the frame that I need to grind off so I can fit the bigger shackles in.
Last thing the exhaust. The end of the exhaust pipe where it curves down is in the way of adding the new shackle. If I grind say 6 inches off is that gonna be a problem??
Any ideas on how I could get more clearance between the leaf springs and frame to get those bigger shackles in???
The end
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 09:35 PM
  #55327  
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From: Michigan
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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I am putting a tranny cooler on my jeep and was thinking about putting a fan on the front of the radiator... Could I see a pic of a setup
Old Jul 17, 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #55328  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
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Originally Posted by Streetcrawler
Help with rear leaf spring shackle!

Right now I'm in the process of putting a 2" lift On a stock 2001xj. I put 2" cool spacers on the front and attempted to put the 1-2" adjustable shackles on the rear. Ran into a few problems.
Mainly couldn't figure out how to drop the leaf springs enough to fit that longer shackle in.
I jacked the jeep up, took both tires off, put jack stands under the frame. Unbolted both rear shackles from the frame and leaf springs. Tried jamming the new longer ones in and couldn't get enough clearance between the frame and leaf springs. I'm gonna try unbolt the shocks and possibly the front of the leaf springs from the frame as well. Hopefully that will add some droop to the axel.
Also found 1 bolt in the shackle mount area on the frame that I need to grind off so I can fit the bigger shackles in.
Last thing the exhaust. The end of the exhaust pipe where it curves down is in the way of adding the new shackle. If I grind say 6 inches off is that gonna be a problem??
Any ideas on how I could get more clearance between the leaf springs and frame to get those bigger shackles in???
The end
Can you show us a picture of the shackles?

Disconnecting the drive shaft, shocks, and sway bar will give you all the droop you need.

Originally Posted by DirtyKurty
I am putting a tranny cooler on my jeep and was thinking about putting a fan on the front of the radiator... Could I see a pic of a setup
Why not just wire up an override switch for the factory electric fan?
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:05 AM
  #55329  
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From: Jax, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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I think my question got lost in the shuffle. Do I need to also loosen the shackle to frame bolts or just the bolts that run through the springs and bushing? Really, I don't want to do it unless one of the forum experts thinks the minor "lift" will cause driveline/TC/Diff problems.
Originally Posted by NewbJeep
Good thing I have another Jeep to work on. Wouldn't want to be bored...

Will this unintentional rear lift cause any driveline problems?
I tried adjusting the springs by setting the full weight of the vehicle on them but it still looks like this:



Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:07 AM
  #55330  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by Streetcrawler
Any ideas on how I could get more clearance between the leaf springs and frame to get those bigger shackles in???
I used a scissor jack on top of rear leaf spring, block of wood on floor pan. Only had to turn the jack by hand to get enough movement of leaf pack.
Having to clearance a bumper bolt that protrudes into shackle box is normal.
Exhaust pipe or hanger may need manipulation to clear shackle, I had to cut off the last six inches then attach a 6" tip to pipe.
Running Clayton oversize shackles (the bushing is what is oversize)
Attached Thumbnails XJ Ask the Question Thread-dsc03682.jpg   XJ Ask the Question Thread-dsc03686.jpg   XJ Ask the Question Thread-dsc05013.jpg  
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:12 AM
  #55331  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by NewbJeep
I think my question got lost in the shuffle. Do I need to also loosen the shackle to frame bolts or just the bolts that run through the springs and bushing? Really, I don't want to do it unless one of the forum experts thinks the minor "lift" will cause driveline/TC/Diff problems.
Shackle to chassis bolts also. Use specified torque ratings, too tight and shackles will resist pivoting, preventing efficient suspension travel.
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:18 AM
  #55332  
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From: Jax, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Shackle to chassis bolts also. Use specified torque ratings, too tight and shackles will resist pivoting, preventing efficient suspension travel.
Thanks! I gave up because it was just spinning. Right now there's some after market tow hitch I have to remove to see if I can get a wrench on the spinning nut. I heard a *crack* and assume that was the dreaded welded nut inside the frame breaking free. Is there an access point on the frame to get at that nut?
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:41 AM
  #55333  
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From: Detroit, MI
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
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Originally Posted by NewbJeep
Thanks! I gave up because it was just spinning. Right now there's some after market tow hitch I have to remove to see if I can get a wrench on the spinning nut. I heard a *crack* and assume that was the dreaded welded nut inside the frame breaking free. Is there an access point on the frame to get at that nut?

Gotta cut into the pocket that holds the welded nut. See post 5 in this thread...
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-broke-210280/
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 06:56 AM
  #55334  
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From: Jax, FL
Year: 1998
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Originally Posted by TFitzPat87
Gotta cut into the pocket that holds the welded nut. See post 5 in this thread...
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/fro...-broke-210280/
Thank you!
Old Jul 18, 2016 | 08:58 PM
  #55335  
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From: Louisville KY
Year: 01
Model: Cherokee
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So I have an np242hd transfer case sitting in my garage and I'm picking up a 231j tomorrow. The 242 was sitting outside for an unknown amount of time but I paid $40 for it. Mostly just want to crack it open and see how it works. The 231 was in a shed for an unknown amount of time as well. But im only paying $40 for this one too. I currently have a 231 on my jeep now. I want to rebuild the 231 with a heavy duty chain and put an SYE on it and run it on my jeep.

My question is, are there any special tools required to do this? I'm pretty good with a wrench but I don't have any experience inside diffs and transfer cases. Yet. I'll obviously post some pictures up of the insides so you guys can tell me if anything looks bad to the point that I shouldn't run it, but I'm just curious is I need dial calipers or micrometers or any of those fancy tools.



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