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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Thank you so much my dear friend, but It could be so much higher than before,
its always in advance 99C-100C, I do not understand why now.
If your electric fan is coming on a lot more frequently, chances are other parts of the cooling system need refreshing. The coolant, thermostat, and mechanical fan clutch all need replacing on their own intervals.
If your electric fan is coming on a lot more frequently, chances are other parts of the cooling system need refreshing. The coolant, thermostat, and mechanical fan clutch all need replacing on their own intervals.
My car after running half an our 100C reached, later 103C e-fan is coming. continuous 102C-103C and normal driving. I'm more afraid of rises in land.
my car new parts:
75C thermostat, temperature sensor, e-fan, mechanical fan(heavy duty), radiator, radiator pipes, head gasket.
I still suspect e-fan, I think it closes early e-fan. How do I know it is working properly mechanical fan and e-fan ? Thank you.
Backstory:
The temp has been staying at about 200°F around town, but it jumps up to about 240F (just below redline) on the highway every day to and from work. Turning on the heat doesn't make a difference, but it drops right back down when I get off the highway.
I've been doing a lot of reading, and I ran across something on JF right before I bought a new lower radiator hose. Apparently, the XJ and later YJ temp sending units are physically identical, but the range of resistance is different. I found numerous people who had similar symptoms, and it turned out they had an XJ sender feeding their YJ gauge inaccurate readings.
Question:
I had a spare, so I put in a new YJ sending unit last night. Now instead of 200/240, I'm getting 180/200 when I'm idling or in town vs on the highway. I know it has a 195 stat because I got it from the dealer and installed it myself. The thermostat housing reads 192±3°F at warm idle, but the gauge reads 180. I admit I haven't yet used the IR gun on the sending unit itself.
I seriously doubt there's a 10°F difference between the front and back of the head. Is there something I'm missing here?
Cooling question for my YJ, but it's an XJ motor. Backstory: The temp has been staying at about 200°F around town, but it jumps up to about 240F (just below redline) on the highway every day to and from work. Turning on the heat doesn't make a difference, but it drops right back down when I get off the highway. I've been doing a lot of reading, and I ran across something on JF right before I bought a new lower radiator hose. Apparently, the XJ and later YJ temp sending units are physically identical, but the range of resistance is different. I found numerous people who had similar symptoms, and it turned out they had an XJ sender feeding their YJ gauge inaccurate readings. Question: I had a spare, so I put in a new YJ sending unit last night. Now instead of 200/240, I'm getting 180/200 when I'm idling or in town vs on the highway. I know it has a 195 stat because I got it from the dealer and installed it myself. The thermostat housing reads 192±3°F at warm idle, but the gauge reads 180. I admit I haven't yet used the IR gun on the sending unit itself. I seriously doubt there's a 10°F difference between the front and back of the head. Is there something I'm missing here?
where does the gauge sit when you haven't run it yet? My oil pressure gauge sits a little off even when it's not running so maybe it sits too low or too high when not on?
where does the gauge sit when you haven't run it yet? My oil pressure gauge sits a little off even when it's not running so maybe it sits too low or too high when not on?
Hey, guys hopefully someone knows whats up. I got my manifold all put back together and it runs like a champ... when it starts. Right now it happens only when cold starting (sitting for a few hours). I can sometimes get it to start on the first try but it runs terrible for a few seconds and definitely can get it running by the second try. I put a dealer CPS and dealer CPS bolts on while I had easy access to it but I'm not sure I torqued it right. Did I mess up something with the CPS or is my Jeep finally feeling what it's like to run the way it's supposed to.
Fuel at prime: 40psi and didn't leak down beyond 36psi after five minutes. Should I perform a longer leak down?
Thanks for any help
EDIT: Upon doing a little research, it looks like I may have a leaky injector or the fuel is leaking back into the tank (check valve?) I'll start investigating that unless someone has a different idea
Last edited by NewbJeep; Jul 31, 2016 at 12:47 AM.
Hey guys, I just got home from Afghanistan, so there's no telling how much I have forgotten how to do maintenance-wise. Anyways, I am replacing my front Hub bearings and rotors (they were rusted together) but I can't get the caliper back on. Do I need to bleed my brakes to compress the piston?
No, just compress the pistons and the fluid will return to the master cylinder. If both are off, support the other one just in case so you don't pop the piston out of it. They are supposedly separate systems, but I wouldn't trust them not to bleed across. If using a c-clamp, don't press on the bottom of the piston, but use an old pad to press on. I had a piston set up one time and pressed too hard on the bottom of the piston and blew it out! Cracked!
Last edited by dave1123; Jul 31, 2016 at 04:00 PM.
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
What am I forgetting?
