So... I ****ed up. I'm changing the leaf springs on my 98 Sport, and everything was going super nice, all the bolts came off half decently ok, etc. Then I get to the ****ing front bolt. I'd already read on how much of a ***** these could be, so I soaked everything I could with WD40 for a week before I started. But lo and behold, it's still a ***** to turn.

I managed to break the bolt free from the welded nut, and it span for a bit (I managed to get the bolt about 1/4 away from the mount). But then it stays. Turning it doesn't do anything. Impact can't move it. I look at the spring while I'm turning, and the inner sleeve is turning with the bolt. Look towards the frame, thought I could see the end of the bolt (key word here: thought). So I grabbed an angle grinder, and cut the head of the bolt flush with the mount, expecting the spring to fall. But it doesn't.
I jiggle it. Move it. Try to get it to fall. But it won't. Crawl underneath (heart sinking) and get a light into the frame rail, and see that the welded nut on the inside of the frame broke free.

So, this is more of an opinion question. I can get the angle grinder inbetween the mount and the other side of the frame rail, and cut it, freeing the spring. But that leaves the broken nut on the other side. So should I go through the floor to get at it, or should I go through the bottom of the frame? Looking through other posts and such, I've seen both ways done. I'm hesitant to cut through the floor, because my Jeep's floorboards look brand new (and for a Cherokee that's spent almost 20 years enduring Albertan winters, that's something), and I don't want to give rust a chance to start. But I'm also apprehensive of cutting into the bottom (structural integrity and such).

What would you folks do? I'll put up pics when I can.

 

Cut a hole in the bottom of the pocket. You can weld it shut again after if you like.

I would make damn sure the nut is broken first. Did you cut the bolt on both sides of the bushing and the weld nut fell into the pocket?

 

I haven't cut the bolt on the other side yet, I've left it for now. There's a couple holes on the bottom of the frame rail that I can get a light into, and when I look through them and move the leaf spring, I can see the nut still on the bolt, moving with the bolt. So I'm pretty sure it's not welded to the mount anymore.

Would cutting a hole into the pocket wreck anything? Like for structural, I mean.

 

Patching the floor is easier than the frame if you don't weld. If you weld I guess it's preference but I'd rather leave the frame if it's clean.

 

Its how the dealer did it when they repaired my parent's XJ after a rear end swipe collision. Seems to be holding up alright, although I plan to clean it up at some point. I ended up chopping the bolt and using a new nut on a wrench, still there.

 

Just for future reference, don't use WD-40 when you need penetrating oil. It's not made to be a penetrant.

It's made as a light lubricant and primarily to displace water. It's pretty good at that. As a penetrating oil, it's lousy.

Use Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster, or if you can find it, Kroil.

 

Thanks for that pic. I have a broken leaf spring, still fighting with that bolt. Took five minutes with a grinder. Not as neat as that pic but the bolt is out. Now I just have to get the stupid upper shackle bolt...

 

Drill a pilot hole to the roll seam of the inner sleeve, and fill it with PB Blaster. It should break up the corrosion inside.

 

i cut mine the same way 15 years ago. holding up just fine and i don't have a hole in the floor.