Sure did. Hitch and stuff I ordered gets here tomorrow. I registered and plated it this morning.

 

Okay Im lost posting on this site, I'm looking for replys
1998 Jeep Cherokee Classic 4.0
owner for three years . I reside in South Florida purchased with 137k now 175k miles. Radiator/ fan shroud / and fan clutch/ changed when I purchased vehicle
But have always had concerns about operating temp.
I change thermostat for 185 to 160 and first put the incorrect red antifreeze, and then after a couple of weeks flushed it and put green glycol antifreeze. and even added WET race car heat control stuff.

In Hot weather conditions with AC on
What is the correct operating temp?
I maintain my vehicle use high mileage oil and filter changes, New trans fluid and strainer. New Spark plugs

Car overheated twice in last two weeks,
Both Fans work electric and fan clutch
No water in oil.

After this I installed high volume thermostat housing, temp sending unit, and 160 thermostat.

In prep, I drained the dirty burnt anti freeze, flushed it our top radiator hose, and radiator petcock. with heater wide open. until clean water flowed , colsed it and Added a container of Prestone Radiator Flush. Ran it for a while to get what ever else was dirty. Flushed it out after I drove it for an hour .
Flowed clean, and then Poured in 50/50 green Glycol

Highway driving with AC running at about 195 below the 210 temp gauge make.
Highway driving NO AC a few degrees lower closer to 185 mark on gauge
Loocal stop and go traffic just below the 210 mark.
Waiting for a long traffic light goes to 210,
In slow traffic or waiting a little past the 210 mark

I need feed back and comparisons
send me reply or private messages
Thanks

 

Throw in a 190° thermostat and give the whole system another flush

 

I agree. I haven't taken out an engine yet but by the looks of it, it's amazingly simple. I replaced the transmission and it was super easy.

 

Well, if you can do it...............

 

You can buy the boot alone. I don't have the part number with me, but check northerdrivetrain.com and dennysdriveshaft.com

 

94 4.slow

What would cause the engine to bog down and die while in gear but is typically fine while in neutral or park?

Fuel filter and sensors are new and or clean. No CEL. I thought it was heat soak but it's happening all the time now and it's rather annoying while on the trail. Scratching my head on this one.

 

I changed my radiator and was running hot then I had to " burp" it then it ran ok.

 

Seems like you may have a flow restriction.
Heating up at idle and in slow traffic is usually a sign of poor airflow (fan clutch or clogged fins in radiator or condenser).
Heating up, or fluctuating temps during highway driving is a sign of poor coolant flow.

The problem you may have is with the Dex-cool. When used in a sysytem that previously had green glycol, it tends to clump and clog passages. Flushing will not remove it all. The passages in radiator are small, once clogged they are almost impossible to clear without removing it from vehicle and having it professionally flushed (or replaced).

A cooler thermostat will not prevent running hot or fluctuating temps. And will have negative effects on fuel mixture and operating efficiency.
195 F is correct.

 

Just curious. When you say over heat. Did it physically overheat to red. Did you verify temps with a gun. Did you add coolant with jeep running to make sure you put enough in there. Why use 50/50 crap. Get some green concentrate and add some distilled water to make mix

 

sorry I'm a bit late to the punch on some of these, but I thought I'd put my two cents in.

The dizzy CAN be put in a tooth off and it will start. You will know immediately that it's wrong. Trust me, it's not a nice thing to hear from your jeep. Just follow cruisers distructions and you'll be golden.

The gasket is a bit of a PITA to find. If the box parts houses have it, I've yet to find it. When I chased it down I found it at a National auto parts. They had it on the shelf for a couple dollars.

Florida, my money would be on an air bubble in the system. The mile long block is prone to getting a bubble and causing overheating.

 

I'm looking to weld up my chassis stiffeners soon. I'm trying to come up with a cost effective way to cover everything up. Por-15 is on the spendy side and I have no rust or salted roads. I was initially thinking about using bed liner. I'd like it to be black (I'm planning on coating the fender wells and whole underside) and easy to touch up and hose off dirt (I feel like bed liner would trap it all in).

 

Took my passenger side door interiors off and banged some dents out. The dings are still there but it doesn't look nearly as bad. Woohoo, pretty classy ride I've got.

 

After welding my stiffeners on, I primed with a rattlecan rustoleum primer, then several coats of Rustoleum paint then when dry, a couple coats of Ruberized undercoating from rattle cans.

Looks great and can hardly tell I did any work.

RSWiser

 

After my wheeling trip this weekend, I want to add a trans cooler for my AW4.

But I'm confused as to what to do about plumbing it. Where should I cut the lines in order to attach new rubber lines? Does it matter where?
I read that I should run the line that usually is the "inlet" for the radiator to the trans cooler, then from the trans cooler back to the radiator. This will allow the fluid to warm up a little bit inside the radiator so the fluid isn't too cold for the trans. Is this correct or just stupid?