i have recently gotten my ordered gears 4.56 usa standard, hpd30, c8.25 29 spl. The hp d30 box says 26 spl pinion. is this the normal d30 yoke/pinion spline? i ordered with all the correct info and though ive never read about the yoke spline. I think it should be correct for the order right?

 

@PWNjeeper

Knowing now that you're without an airbox at all, and doing the oily tag trick(creative!), your original idea isn't bad. Anything is better than nothing. Other options;

Pick up a parts store universal DIY cold air kit(Spectre, etc). They're kinda cheesy, "chrome" plastic, but they come with a variety of tubes, elbows and couplers. Little creativity and you could probably swing a DIY cowl intake.

Post in the classifieds here that you need a Renix airbox. I'm sure somebody here has one they'd be willing to sell for a reasonable price.

 

An air cleaner from a Chevy Express 2500 van worked for me. More surface area than the stock filter because it's a cylinder, not a panel. Fits in the same place. Took only minor creativity to mate it to the 4.0L's intake hose, getting non-hot air into it is a little more interesting.

 

Got any pics?

 

My work is getting rid of a chevy express i might have to look into that. Thank you.

Ditto

 

Basic assembly:



I have a few more but I don't want to flood OEM Tech with 'em.

Intake hose has the outer lip shaved down and jammed into the 3" or 4" ABS elbow from Home Depot. The side of the elbow in the cleaner assembly is wrapped with window trim foam, secured to the cleaner with #8 or #6 stainless machine screws and nuts, and the whole thing is RTV siliconed in place, inside and out. For CCV I drilled & tapped an appropriate hole into the elbow and used a brass nipple. As pictured the intake 'horn' has only the mounting tabs trimmed, but is stock length as originally pulled air from above the rad on the donor van.

My plan was to use an ABS pipe trimmed to fit the intake to the cleaner and run plumbing up to the cowl, but I never got around to it. Made it in 2012 for the green guy, it's on the Tractor Jeep today.

 

That intake hose looks like it's for the H.O. not for the Renix, but I suppose it's the same concept.

 

I am at a loss. 1998 cherokee sport 4.0. starts right away runs great, plenty of power and gas mileage is as good as ever. Occasionally after driving for a bit it will just randomly sputter then drive fine again. Sometimes it will get worse and all the dash lights will come on and it will even stall (happened twice) but then start and drive fine again. Once my battery was completely dead in the morning after a couple of sputtering episodes, put in new battery last week and sputter just happened again today. There is no way for me to reproduce the problem and I could go up to a week without any sputter at all. Last summer it got a new fuel pump with filter. Gas tank was replaced due to a crack. After the problem started, I did plugs, wires and cap. No check engine light has come on either so no help there. Any suggestions would be appreciated. I am a Cherokee newbie but have a 91 YJ which I have had for a very long time. A bit simpler to diagnose on the old boy. I am an old guy, been around off road vehicles my whole life and work on all my own cars, this is stumping me though.

 

Oh yeah, forgot you had one of them whale-oil burning things. lol. (1999 isn't "High Output", by the way, I think Chrysler called 'em PowerTech or some ****) Not sure if the Renix hose has the same diameter at the air cleaner end but I imagine it didn't change much. You're right, though, same concept.

ALL the dash lights coming on indicate that the gauge cluster is losing power. A sputter at the same time suggests the PCM and/or ignition is having the same issue. I would put my attention towards your battery cables and grounding. It sounds like you've got a loose connector and/or corrosion inside the wire.

 

I was leaning towards that idea. The trip odometer also resets when the cluster has its episode so yeah, it seems like a power issue. I tried reproducing it by going over rough gravel roads with pot holes but nothing, so wasn't sure I was leaning in the right direction. Thanks for the second opinion, I will dig down on some wiring, the alternator connections as well.

 

what adhesive should i use to glue my windshield rubber seal on? i need to remove it at the top to grind some rust and then paint, and there seems to be a black gluey stuff holding it on, not sure what it is.

i searched a little and found this, is it what i'm looking for?

 

It is a urethane that is used on windshields. FYI, silicone should not be used, it can be acidic/corrosive to bare metal and paint. Here is windshield urethane;

 

26 Spline is correct for Dana 30... that's not the spline of the yoke and pinion it's talking about, that's referring to the spline count of the axleshafts. It's just for reference to ensure you got it for the correct carrier.

 

looking for a build thread, the guy patched the driver side floor pan with some black material.

 

Was there a question in there?