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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
i'll give it a shot. I know the relay is good but hopefully with the new pump the relay will stay on as opposed to turning back off in a split second. i think i'm still going to try routing power directly to the pump later tonight. it's bugging me that that relay is tripping. I want to be very sure the pump is bad before i replace it. not much money to blow at the moment...
Completely understand there, man. Keep us updated and we'll try to help as we can. The OBDII "guru" on here is CCKen. You can try to shoot him a PM with what's going on and he may have a little more insight.
Completely understand there, man. Keep us updated and we'll try to help as we can. The OBDII "guru" on here is CCKen. You can try to shoot him a PM with what's going on and he may have a little more insight.
i'll get back on here once i get a new fuel pump. I feel like the pcm is shutting the relay off because of the out of spec resistance. I don't know of a system that keeps it in check but it wouldn't be the first time i'd be learning. I'm not going to check the pump either...at this point i might as well replace it. i'm at 145k and it's probably the original judging from the rest of the beast (it's in good shape).
So.... I gotta paint the beast. I'm starting to get a few small rust spots I need to address before they get worse.
Currently it's Matte Black. When I had it painted, there wasn't another vehicle to be seen with matte paint, now I can't go 1/4 mile without seeing one.
What do you guys think? Leave it matte black, or go back to Gloss Black.
I'm on the fence because I like both.
I still have the grey trim that was on the lower edge of the body, but I'm not feeling it.
Leave the top part flat (glare) and do the sides gloss black. May look weird, but remember driving into the sun, that glare will get to you after awhile. Just my thought!
i have a slight issue.
my 96 xj wouldn't start up yesterday. it would crank but wouldn't fire up unless i gave it gas.
it would die immediately after i let off the gas.
so i did a little google-fu and it gave me a few ideas.
fuel filter
battery
vacuum leak
some also said to hold the gas til it warms up a bit and that might fix it due to the pcm relearning or something like that..
so i tried the latter and it seemed to work. My jeep is a weekend/hunting vehicle for me so its not like i drive it every day.
i drove it all around the weekend before because i had just installed an adjustable track bar and longer LCA (from Rusty's) and it was fine then. but its been really hot and wet here in Houston all week.
i know the heater control valve (or whatever that thing connected to the heater core with a vacuum line to it) is busted but it hasn't given me issues the other 2 months of owning this thing. the heater core is bypassed for now (and i'm not too worried about it since i only need a heater like 2 days out of the year down here haha so i might just delete that valve and plug that one vacuum line even though i found a replacement)
i'm thinking its more fuel related since i got it to run fine after holding the rpms at like 2k for about 30 seconds and it drove fine moving it around the neighborhood.
anybody think i'm right??? or even completely way off base??
The thing with EFI thought, during cranking the injectors are running at a fixed flow rate. Pushing the gas pedal only serves to allow more air in.
One likely culprit would be the IAB valve. With your foot off the gas, the throttle blade is actually completely closed, and the IAB valve allows the correct amount of air through for idle speed. If the valve is bad, or dirty/sticking, then the engine can't get any air till you open the throttle.
Also check your TPS. The AIB only opens when the TPS signals the computer that the throttle is shut. If it's reading wrong, the computer thinks the throttle is partly open when it's actually shut, it won't open the IAB, giving the symptoms you've got.
Anyone have a line on the plastic inserts that go in the header panel that the grill screws screw into? I think they're called body nuts but I can't really find a size or anywhere that has them for sure. Be nice to find a pack that comes with screws to but I think I saved those when I replaced the deer damage.
Anyone have a line on the plastic inserts that go in the header panel that the grill screws screw into? I think they're called body nuts but I can't really find a size or anywhere that has them for sure. Be nice to find a pack that comes with screws to but I think I saved those when I replaced the deer damage.
Have you tried AutoZone, Oreilly's, Advance Auto, NAPA, etc? They carry a lot of that stuff on the aisles of "universal" parts. My AZ has them on a turnstyle with nuts and bolts, body clips, trim screws, whatnot.
Have you tried AutoZone, Oreilly's, Advance Auto, NAPA, etc? They carry a lot of that stuff on the aisles of "universal" parts. My AZ has them on a turnstyle with nuts and bolts, body clips, trim screws, whatnot.
Maybe I'll have to pull one out and go through the racks. I looked briefly there but they didn't seem quite right.
Stumbling idle? Especially after coming off the highway? Fuel pump maybe? It doesn't do it at speed, or on start. Just randomly almost fails.
Check your fuel pressure at the rail. Should be 49 PSI +/- 5
If your pressure is good, then your fuel pump is fine. Could be spark issue or a sensor messing up at that point. When's the last time you did plugs and wires?
Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
