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Old Jun 25, 2017 | 10:11 PM
  #58456  
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
That poor truck. I'm still mad at kuzican for not getting video of my Wrangler going 3.5ft up in the air

Attachment 302373

Attachment 302374

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Attachment 302377

https://www.youtube.com/embed/E3EJEenCWHo?rel=0


She was good to me, though. I drove the truck 9 hours back to Ohio the next day and then brought my Kawi back to Maryland

The YJ is badass, but I definitely miss that MJ.
Old Jun 26, 2017 | 02:01 PM
  #58457  
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Originally Posted by mannydantyla
Jeez, alright... was hoping Jeep built these to be a little more water friendly than that...
Why? XJs are squished station wagons for families trying to get to the cottage. Maybe a Gama Goat is more what you were looking for?
Serious water fording requires a LOT of expense. Vehicles built for that have pressurized axles to keep the water out.
Old Jun 26, 2017 | 11:12 PM
  #58458  
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Default xj 96 cluster problem



xj 96 signal high beams not show cluster Accelerate the turn signal lights up, help guide how to repair it.


thank you sir
Old Jun 29, 2017 | 08:01 AM
  #58459  
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So then the valves should be fully closed all the time? They were open since I bought it

Last edited by Ethan94; Jun 29, 2017 at 08:16 AM.
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 04:04 AM
  #58460  
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Originally Posted by Ethan94
So then the valves should be fully closed all the time? They were open since I bought it
For your AC compressor? Yes. Only open them when you're going to service the system.
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 07:01 AM
  #58461  
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The AC service valves were a long-time AMC feature, they used 'em from the first Nash air conditioning system in 1954 until the company's end in 1987. (Not sure how long Chrysler continued them in the XJ.)

The "SERVICE VALVES" section in the following page from the 1975 AMC service manual illustrates how they work. (In my initial description from memory I may have reversed the "front-seated" and "back-seated" descriptions.)



Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.

Last edited by Rambler65; Jun 30, 2017 at 07:17 AM. Reason: Use 1975 manual page, is clearer than 1965 page
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 08:25 AM
  #58462  
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Originally Posted by Rambler65
Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.
alright, thank you. And thanks basslicks

turned out there was a hole in the hose, only found that after a puddle appeared and had to buy more after fixing the hose but it works now, a little late but the triple digits won't be as bad now

Last edited by Ethan94; Jun 30, 2017 at 08:27 AM.
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 09:56 PM
  #58463  
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Originally Posted by Rambler65
The AC service valves were a long-time AMC feature, they used 'em from the first Nash air conditioning system in 1954 until the company's end in 1987. (Not sure how long Chrysler continued them in the XJ.)

The "SERVICE VALVES" section in the following page from the 1975 AMC service manual illustrates how they work. (In my initial description from memory I may have reversed the "front-seated" and "back-seated" descriptions.)



Basically what you want to do is crack open the valve for servicing (turn in clockwise a few turns). Put it back in the normal operating position (full counterclockwise) when done. There are no schrader valves used so it is important that you connect your gauge set hoses before cracking the valves open.
I have 'em on my '92... so at least that long.

Originally Posted by Ethan94
alright, thank you. And thanks basslicks

turned out there was a hole in the hose, only found that after a puddle appeared and had to buy more after fixing the hose but it works now, a little late but the triple digits won't be as bad now
Glad we got ya fixed up man.
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 10:06 PM
  #58464  
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Originally Posted by Basslicks
I have 'em on my '92... so at least that long.
Is that an R12 system? I figure that they probably dropped the service valves when R134 was adopted since the charging/service ports changed as well.
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 10:42 PM
  #58465  
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Originally Posted by Rambler65
Is that an R12 system? I figure that they probably dropped the service valves when R134 was adopted since the charging/service ports changed as well.
Yes it is, and I believe 94 is when everyone had to convert because some law or something stupid.
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 10:53 PM
  #58466  
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Dumb question. When wiring a relay with no 87a pin usage, does it matter whether you use pin 30 or pin 87 as the input from your 12v source? I mistakenly wired some relays with my 12v starting at pin 87. If this will be detrimental, I'll redo the wiring. Thanks!
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 11:27 PM
  #58467  
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Default Radiator Fan Control Relay

I have recently acquired a 2000 XJ, have to get it emission checked and check engine light is on. It will not pass with the light on. I used a code scanner and the message says P1491 - Radiator fan relay control circuit. I can reset the codes, but the check engine light comes right back on at next start. I assume the auxilary fan was plugged into the wiring loom somewhere, but is now bypassed. The fan is now wired to a different relay (says Ford on it) atttached to the inside of the passenger fender under the hood, with wiring ran thru the firewall to the inside and has a switch attached to manually turn it off and on.

My question is, where was the fan originally plugged in and can it be jumpered or something to get rid of the code and keep the check engine light off?
Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:52 AM
  #58468  
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Originally Posted by Rambler65
Is that an R12 system? I figure that they probably dropped the service valves when R134 was adopted since the charging/service ports changed as well.
Yup. R12 converted to R134. You're probably right, they probably did away with those fittings with the new R134 systems.
Old Jul 1, 2017 | 01:52 AM
  #58469  
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I cannot figure out how to start a new post! I read this site constantly but could never find where to post anything. I've got a quick question. I bought a new track bar and when crawling under I noticed that its actually my drag link that needs replacing. I can twist it and there's plenty of play on the boot. My question is, do i have to replace the tie rod at the same time or can I just dio the drag link?

Thanks!

Oh it's a 97 XJ
Old Jul 1, 2017 | 02:23 AM
  #58470  
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Originally Posted by Noah Wallace
I cannot figure out how to start a new post! I read this site constantly but could never find where to post anything. I've got a quick question. I bought a new track bar and when crawling under I noticed that its actually my drag link that needs replacing. I can twist it and there's plenty of play on the boot. My question is, do i have to replace the tie rod at the same time or can I just dio the drag link?

Thanks!

Oh it's a 97 XJ
For your first problem:




But for a question like this, posting in this thread is perfectly fine


As far as your second problem, yes you can. It would be advisable to replace the tie rod soon though because these typically wear within the same time frame.



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