What's to assume...when there is liquid Mercury involved it pretty much explains everything. Lol

 

I just installed IRO Adjustable lower control arms on my jeep. The arms came with 4 washers that are about 3/16" thick, but I didn't have room for them inside the control arm mounts. Is this an issue or do some people need them and some dont?
Driving the jeep is fine at all speeds so I see no issues. The steering is also much tighter.

 

I think that's only needed if there is space in the mount. I forgot how I did mines

 

Alright, so im replacing the rear yoke on my Chrysler 8.25 and I got a couple questions. First off, I'm using a solid bearing and shims to replace the crush sleeve. Anyways, here's my questions.
1. Do I check the preload with the carrier and axle shafts in or while i have it out?
2. What's should preload be?
3. When measuring preload, do I check the resistance needed to get the yoke to start turning or the resistance to keep it turning
once it's already turning?
3. Do I need to check ring gear backlash?
4. If I do need to check backlash what's should it be?
5. What should yoke be tightened to once finished?
6. Where can I get gear paint?
7. Also, anything done differently when using a solid bearing instead of crush sleeve?

Anything else I should know before doing this? Thanks

 

I just got a 95 cherokee , lifted 6 inchs and on 33 a/ts and when im driving its stupid hard to keep it going straight and im all over the road (r.i.p. to the pedestrians) but ive been looking for solutions all day but found nothing , and no it isnt the death wobble .

 

You should take pics of your steering angles. At the lift height there's alot that should be done including a wheel alignment. Did you lift it yourself. And maybe if its that much of a danger you take it off the road until you fix it because a jeep floating isn't a good excuse in court to get you off

 

Like syco suggested, that's usually because your alignment is off. It's usually a toe problem, but it could be your caster with 6" of lift

 

Will 97+ xj doors swap onto a 93 xj?

 

Yup, toe or caster are usually culprits. Bad caster angle throws off the self centering action of the steering and makes it wander like crazy. Do you have adjustable control arms?

 

Yes, but you'll need to change to the newer style door striker, which sits in a different position. It requires welding up a hole to relocate the striker

 

The striker being for the latch?

 

Technically, the latch is on the door, and the striker is on the body. But you're right about what you're thinking

 

Gotcha, you've helped me tons clown anyone ever tell you you should publish a book haha

 

Your welcome! ..Glad you found it..happens way to often..good choice on cat & muffler...I have a small dead blow hammer...I call it the "majic hammer"...you wouldn't believe how many vechicles I've fixed with it (especially good for electric window motors and sluggish starters) ....

 

Nah, that's a first

I learned a good portion of what I know on this site, and I like to pass it on. It's easy when people are courteous and responsive like you