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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Sep 4, 2015 | 03:16 PM
  #51031  
BOOMroasted's Avatar
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Anyone think it's a bad idea to use seafoam right before a ~450 mile trip? I've read it's recommended you change your oil within 50 or so miles after using it and I wouldn't be able to do that while I'm out of town.
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 03:30 PM
  #51032  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
what's is the vacuum check valve? Is that the manifold vacuum line Plug? So I need a line from the manifold to the firewall/blend doors, then from the firewall/blend doors to the reservoir?
You'll have to pop the fitting off of the manifold and see if it's got a check valve in it. I can't remember exactly where they get installed.

Line-wise, yes.

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Is anyone familiar with 'Parts Master' brand steering components? Uses the same part numbers as Moog.
So does Mevotech, but with an "M" in front lol. What's the pricing like? Cheap tends to be cheap.

Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
Anybody know what this is for?
Underhood light

Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
Anyone think it's a bad idea to use seafoam right before a ~450 mile trip? I've read it's recommended you change your oil within 50 or so miles after using it and I wouldn't be able to do that while I'm out of town.
Absolutely do not do that... just run engine oil
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 03:45 PM
  #51033  
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From: Tallahassee, FL
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Originally Posted by salad

Absolutely do not do that... just run engine oil
Don't do what exactly? Should I just put it in the throttle body and gas tank?
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 04:01 PM
  #51034  
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From: Cape Hatteras, North Carolina
Year: 2000 WJ
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by salad
So does Mevotech, but with an "M" in front lol. What's the pricing like? Cheap tends to be cheap.
Moog ZJ tie rod = $52 shipped
Parts Master = $23 shipped
I have never heard of them but was curious. Seems like most of that $23 would be towards shipping, leaving little for the actual part.
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 04:16 PM
  #51035  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default Ask the Question Thread

Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
Don't do what exactly? Should I just put it in the throttle body and gas tank?
Brake booster vacuum line and gas tank would be the generally recommended use on a 4.0L
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 04:20 PM
  #51036  
salad's Avatar
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
Don't do what exactly? Should I just put it in the throttle body and gas tank?
Yeah. Don't thin your oil like that for 450 miles lol


Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Brake booster vacuum line and gas tank would be the generally recommended use on a 4.0L
What he said

Originally Posted by SteveMongr
Moog ZJ tie rod = $52 shipped
Parts Master = $23 shipped
I have never heard of them but was curious. Seems like most of that $23 would be towards shipping, leaving little for the actual part.
Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm... For that price might as well see how "bad" it is...
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 06:15 PM
  #51037  
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From: NE Indiana
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by E.Zeller
1996 4.0 - The shifting in my AX15 seems to get tougher to go into gear (no grinding just stiffer) as the engine temp goes up. Shifting seems fine when cool. I replaced a leaking master clutch hoping that would help, to no avail. Is there a problem with the slave cyl. or fluid getting to hot? Fresh correct fluids everywhere. Engine temp never goes above 210*. It has 136k and everything else is fine.
Trans has Mobil 1 full syn 10w30 in it.

Any ideas? Try another trans fluid?

Eric
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 07:28 PM
  #51038  
salad's Avatar
Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by E.Zeller
Trans has Mobil 1 full syn 10w30 in it.

Any ideas? Try another trans fluid?

Eric
Do you have difficulty getting it into any gears with the engine running and the Jeep stopped?
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 08:30 PM
  #51039  
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From: NE Indiana
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
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Originally Posted by salad
Do you have difficulty getting it into any gears with the engine running and the Jeep stopped?
No problem when engine/clutch is cool. After engine is hot, oh yea. It gets better when I get out on the road and things cool off a bit. This jeep is my daily driver and has not been off roaded.
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 10:32 PM
  #51040  
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From: SOMERTON ARIZONA
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Need your thoughts on this...Im going to remove my t case on my xj to install a sye kit...seen vids that they do it installed but ill be removing at my house to work on at my work since I work at the jeep dealer but my main concern is my xj has no leaks but don't know if I should change the seal in-between the transmission and t case if its not leaking.. had things like these back fire on me that I change a part and I change the seal if it has any even if its not leaking and it ends up leaking afterwards... WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS?
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 10:37 PM
  #51041  
ehall's Avatar
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From: Southern Maryland
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1999 4.0L
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Those seals aren't exposed to the elements, so if they aren't leaking leave them alone
Old Sep 4, 2015 | 11:45 PM
  #51042  
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From: Arizona
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
Default Hard start

Every time I try and start my jeep after it's sat overnight or when it's cool I have a hard time getting it to start up. It will crank for days with no ignition. UNLESS I turn the key, crank for even one second, then turn key off and then crank again and it will always fire right up. I've tried the prime where you turn on the ignition, then off, then on again repeating a few times and have gotten mixed results. Sometimes it starts other times it's the same habit of crank for a second, then off, then starting it. I have no issues when it is warm always fires first rotation.

Also sometimes when I first get going I lose power and feels like it's struggling to stay alive. Warm or cold. Rare but it's happened a handful of times.


Is this a failing/ failed fuel pump? Or am I having a different issue. Any insight on this would be great. I can post video if need be. Thanks
Old Sep 5, 2015 | 02:04 AM
  #51043  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default Ask the Question Thread

Originally Posted by Bacon' n eggs
Every time I try and start my jeep after it's sat overnight or when it's cool I have a hard time getting it to start up. It will crank for days with no ignition. UNLESS I turn the key, crank for even one second, then turn key off and then crank again and it will always fire right up. I've tried the prime where you turn on the ignition, then off, then on again repeating a few times and have gotten mixed results. Sometimes it starts other times it's the same habit of crank for a second, then off, then starting it. I have no issues when it is warm always fires first rotation.

Also sometimes when I first get going I lose power and feels like it's struggling to stay alive. Warm or cold. Rare but it's happened a handful of times.


Is this a failing/ failed fuel pump? Or am I having a different issue. Any insight on this would be great. I can post video if need be. Thanks
I'd certainly suspect the fuel pump, but don't consider that a diagnosis
Old Sep 5, 2015 | 02:57 AM
  #51044  
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From: Arizona
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
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That's what i was suspecting but wanted to get other opinions as to what may be causing the issue before I drop a couple hundred bucks on a reliable fuel pump. Thanks for the response
Old Sep 5, 2015 | 11:18 AM
  #51045  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
Anyone think it's a bad idea to use seafoam right before a ~450 mile trip? I've read it's recommended you change your oil within 50 or so miles after using it and I wouldn't be able to do that while I'm out of town.
I think it's a bad idea any time. Us BG 44K instead of that snake oil.



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