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Old Sep 21, 2015, 03:49 PM
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Old Jul 5, 2015 | 09:20 AM
  #50131  
RustyAxel's Avatar
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Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Default Help with part identification...

Hello All,
Looks like something just broke free from the axle(?) and I would like to know what it is and if it's safe to drive?
Thank you all advance!
2001 Jeep Cherokee, 6cy, 112K miles

Pic1: Close up of broken piece




Pic2: Far right-Driver's side front tire
Old Jul 5, 2015 | 09:45 AM
  #50132  
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From: Hampton Roads
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
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Yeeeahhhh...that looks like the spring perch rusted right off the axle. See how your spring is bending in? More pics to be sure or someone who knows better can say more. Don't drive on it.
Old Jul 5, 2015 | 09:48 AM
  #50133  
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From: London Ontario Canada
Year: 2000
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That's your sway bar/ spring perch.
Yes it's unsafe to drive with it like that.
The entire spring can now "Fall Off" the axle and you will lose control of your steering.
Other damage is putting your tire into your fender.
You need another axle or a new perch welded back onto the current axle.
Old Jul 5, 2015 | 09:52 AM
  #50134  
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Originally Posted by Jamie57
That's your sway bar/ spring perch.
Yes it's unsafe to drive with it like that.
The entire spring can now "Fall Off" the axle and you will lose control of your steering.
Other damage is putting your tire into your fender.
You need another axle or a new perch welded back onto the current axle.
Uh, yup. Well stated and true.

Looks like it's been that way for a while.....
Old Jul 5, 2015 | 12:56 PM
  #50135  
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XJ Ask the Question Thread-13846.jpg

Can someone explain to me why someone would need to do this when installing a rear shock?
Old Jul 5, 2015 | 02:10 PM
  #50136  
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From: Hampton Roads
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
Attachment 273238

Can someone explain to me why someone would need to do this when installing a rear shock?
They most likely snapped a bolt (which happen to 3 out of my 4 too). It is very annoying to get in there to bolt things back together and whatnot and some folks have just went and gone through the trunk because it is easier. Sorry they left the jeep that way....leaves the elements ways into your interior.
Old Jul 5, 2015 | 02:42 PM
  #50137  
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From: Glen Ellyn, IL
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Default

What are your takes on shock boots? I have 4 bilstein 5100s for my 3.5" RE lift and they came with the boots on, I've heard that can cause water to get trapped inside with the shock and cause rusting. Should I fight them off or just leave em on?
Old Jul 5, 2015 | 07:36 PM
  #50138  
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Default Ask the Question Thread

Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
Attachment 273238

Can someone explain to me why someone would need to do this when installing a rear shock?
As he said, those upper shock bolts usually snap. If a shop did that, you should raise hell. If a previous owner did it, just weld some sheet metal over it and keep your eye out for matching carpet (If you want to keep the carpet).

Originally Posted by Doove
What are your takes on shock boots? I have 4 bilstein 5100s for my 3.5" RE lift and they came with the boots on, I've heard that can cause water to get trapped inside with the shock and cause rusting. Should I fight them off or just leave em on?
Get them out of there and throw them away. Shock boots trap mud, dirt, road grime, and moisture. This concoction will stick to the shock stem, passing through the seal hundreds of times each day as you drive. This will corrode the seal, eventually ruining the shock.

The same crap will end up on the stems without the shock boots, but you can take 30 seconds to wipe them down once in a while and save them
Old Jul 6, 2015 | 08:12 AM
  #50139  
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Get them out of there and throw them away. Shock boots trap mud, dirt, road grime, and moisture. This concoction will stick to the shock stem, passing through the seal hundreds of times each day as you drive. This will corrode the seal, eventually ruining the shock.

The same crap will end up on the stems without the shock boots, but you can take 30 seconds to wipe them down once in a while and save them[/QUOTE]

Thanks! Definitely getting rid of those now
Old Jul 7, 2015 | 01:40 PM
  #50140  
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Yes you can re-torque your waterpump bolts!

Last edited by kgm; Jul 7, 2015 at 04:34 PM.
Old Jul 7, 2015 | 03:18 PM
  #50141  
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Year: 1999
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so I'm about to go look at a 99 cherokee sport. Can someone show me how to tell if the cylinder head is the 0630 or 0331? I have a 98 now and I can't find the stamp. Is it possible to tell the difference without taking the valve cover or etc off?
Old Jul 7, 2015 | 03:29 PM
  #50142  
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
so I'm about to go look at a 99 cherokee sport. Can someone show me how to tell if the cylinder head is the 0630 or 0331? I have a 98 now and I can't find the stamp. Is it possible to tell the difference without taking the valve cover or etc off?
99s had 0630 and you should be able to see the raised numbers on the driver's side of the head.
Old Jul 7, 2015 | 03:56 PM
  #50143  
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Originally Posted by BOOMroasted
so I'm about to go look at a 99 cherokee sport. Can someone show me how to tell if the cylinder head is the 0630 or 0331? I have a 98 now and I can't find the stamp. Is it possible to tell the difference without taking the valve cover or etc off?
Look at this pic.. this is where to look.

Old Jul 8, 2015 | 12:05 AM
  #50144  
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Originally Posted by Dumajones
Look at this pic.. this is where to look.

Don't get mo betta dan dat.
Old Jul 8, 2015 | 06:58 AM
  #50145  
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Year: 1990
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I have once again gone through the problem of lack of power and then improved acceleration above 3000 rpms, accompanied by "pops" through the throttle body.

The first thing that entered my mind was a fuel problem.

The next morning, the beast wouldn't start. I couldn't hear the fuel pump charging up either.

I got underneath and checked voltage to the pump, and discovered it was very low.

I ran a wire directly from the battery to the pump, at which point it functioned normally, and I was able to return home.

What the pump didn't do was shut off once it made pressure after a few seconds, which it normally does.

By that I mean that usually every time I turn on the key, the pump runs until it builds pressure, then shuts off. It doesn't keep running if the engine isn't running.

Is there some sort of pressure sensor that cycles it on and off as required?

Does the pump voltage have to pass through the relay near the coil? How is it even possible that I get low voltage out of a relay? I though voltage out of a relay was all or nada.

I was thinking about buying a fuel pressure tester, but instead bought a pressure gauge to install on the fuel line. Shouldn't they both give me the same information?



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