CCV "valves" on top of VC are clean and dry (back one is new, front one was cleaned)

 

Famous last words...
Just change the oil & use a good filter it will be fine. The last thing you want to do is loosen that crud and plug everything up solid.

 

What makes you think you need a flush? If there's crap caked on the valves you should take that a little more seriously than a small can of naptha and lamp oil.

Normal oil is fine. Some have higher detergents than others.

 

Desert, how bad does it look when shining a light into the filer?

Like Turbo says, don't shock the system.

I've had excellent results with Rotella T3 and MMO.

 

X2 the t3 itself has come out cleaner with every change.

 

I mentioned changing my valve cover gasket... besides the vast improvement..... I snapped off two heater hose ports in the back by firewall... Is it possible to replace this unit where the heater hoses are joined???? Little help here guys .... please

 

Honestly I dont see any buildup, I just want to make sure the lower half is clean. Every time I change the oil it is jet black even if I change at 1500mi intervals or more. I have been using a wix filter every time also.

What is the symptom of a stuck or gummed up valve? I have weird motor running issues and everything has tested out good that iv checked.

 

You snapped off the metal lines coming through the firewall? If so you would need to pull the dash out and swap the Heater core.

Take a picture for us to see, it will help us with an answer for you.

 

It's actually fairly normal for oil to get dark, especially if you're running high detergent or high dispersant. The oil will pick up crap and hold it there. Remember the filters don't have a great efficiency - most WIX cellulose media traps nominally at 20-25 micron - so plenty of smaller contaminants float by. Just not "generally considered" large enough to cause significant abrasion.

Also oil gets darker when it's exposed to heat.

Misfires, poor running, low power, etc. Leakdown and compression test will reveal valve and ring issues. If your engine had a poor life previously some MMO to free up a sticky lifter may help. Generally problems with the lifter system (incl the hollow pushrods) show up with a rattle, tick, or tap.

 

I bought a fel pro diff gasket for a friends diff. Should we put rtv on it or metal to gasket bare?

 

Probably the heater control valve. If so bypass it and plug the vacuum line.

 

CCV "valves" are clean and dry. Rear is new, front was cleaned.

Any other suggestions?

 

Clean and degrease everything, place paper towels in spots you think it may be leaking from. Drive for a while, check paper towels.

 

When I take my gas cap off, there is no pressure release from the tank. Is that normal of a properly functioning gas cap? I know I should just replace it and not ask stupid questions, but I am curious lol.

 

Should I be concerned with the way this looks inside the filler hole on the valve cover?

Just did an oil change on it, rear main seal is leaking now that I swapped to a 10w30 compared to 15w 40 I was using.