Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: General Overview
- Jeep Grand Cherokee WJ 1999 to 2004 Crash Test and Safety Ratings
Important Information to help you understand your Jeep Grand Cherokee.
Browse all: General Overview
XJ Ask the Question Thread
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Alright i got the rear end done for my 4.5 re lift. Gave me 5"s but it was also loaded with all the front end parts in the trunk.
Any tips on doing the front? Gonna attempt it this morning after work. And are 33s goig to look stupid on 5.5"s of lift? Im on the fence for this and cant decide how itll look, but i cant afford a regear for quite a long time.
Any tips on doing the front? Gonna attempt it this morning after work. And are 33s goig to look stupid on 5.5"s of lift? Im on the fence for this and cant decide how itll look, but i cant afford a regear for quite a long time.
No, I don't lick fish.



Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 11,169
Likes: 26
From: Northern Kentucky
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
The amount of lift you got in the rear will settle under your jeeps weight over a few weeks time... RE is pretty good about formulating lifts so in the end you're going to end up with 4.5 like it says.
Best advice I would say for the front is penetrating oil, penetrating oil, penetrating oil.... and have a torch handy if available. Not sure how rusty your jeep is, but this is what I've heard a lot of people talk about when it comes to doing lifts. The bolts for the shocks love to break while you're trying to remove them. You're definitely going to want to do a track bar adjustement and an alighment when you're done. Just use the search function for "DIY Alignment" or "Driveway Alignment" and you can do it yourself anywhere between 20 minutes (from what I've heard some boast) and an hour.
Good luck to you!
Best advice I would say for the front is penetrating oil, penetrating oil, penetrating oil.... and have a torch handy if available. Not sure how rusty your jeep is, but this is what I've heard a lot of people talk about when it comes to doing lifts. The bolts for the shocks love to break while you're trying to remove them. You're definitely going to want to do a track bar adjustement and an alighment when you're done. Just use the search function for "DIY Alignment" or "Driveway Alignment" and you can do it yourself anywhere between 20 minutes (from what I've heard some boast) and an hour.
Good luck to you!
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 521
Likes: 0
From: Oregon
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
The amount of lift you got in the rear will settle under your jeeps weight over a few weeks time... RE is pretty good about formulating lifts so in the end you're going to end up with 4.5 like it says.
Best advice I would say for the front is penetrating oil, penetrating oil, penetrating oil.... and have a torch handy if available. Not sure how rusty your jeep is, but this is what I've heard a lot of people talk about when it comes to doing lifts. The bolts for the shocks love to break while you're trying to remove them. You're definitely going to want to do a track bar adjustement and an alighment when you're done. Just use the search function for "DIY Alignment" or "Driveway Alignment" and you can do it yourself anywhere between 20 minutes (from what I've heard some boast) and an hour.
Good luck to you!
Best advice I would say for the front is penetrating oil, penetrating oil, penetrating oil.... and have a torch handy if available. Not sure how rusty your jeep is, but this is what I've heard a lot of people talk about when it comes to doing lifts. The bolts for the shocks love to break while you're trying to remove them. You're definitely going to want to do a track bar adjustement and an alighment when you're done. Just use the search function for "DIY Alignment" or "Driveway Alignment" and you can do it yourself anywhere between 20 minutes (from what I've heard some boast) and an hour.
Good luck to you!
And itll be good if it does settle to 4.5 since that with 33s will look good and proportional. I hope it settles lol
Last edited by Eagle564; Mar 31, 2013 at 05:49 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 14,553
Likes: 1
From: Carrollton, GA
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0L High Output
Just finished my JB conversions SYE, what size bolts thread into the double cardan joint on a front driveshaft so I can I use it on the rear?
Or what should I do?
Or what should I do?
CF Veteran
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,812
Likes: 0
From: South Mills, NC
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Rebuilt 4.0L I6
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 1,090
Likes: 0
From: Lehigh Valley, Pennsylvania
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 stroked to 4.6, Thanks to Teasdale'sMachine!
On one I worked my *** off to get all the insulation off the floor. It's like dynomat from Eastwood, adhesive rubber under the top layer.
Second one I used spray on bed liner right over. Like the second one better. Less work and looks good.
Second one I used spray on bed liner right over. Like the second one better. Less work and looks good.
You will need good anchor point in the frame rails in front of the crumples. Two trees close enough for your amount of chain. Straps to protect the trees. Chains to attach to jeep and a chain ******. It's like a ratchet strap but for chains. Pull the crumple straight and weld on some steel plates to reinforce. I've got two trees in my yard we call the stretcher; done it more times than I can remember. Ill post a pic if I can find.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Leadville,Colorado
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l il6
I have a question for you guys, i own a 97 xj with 247,000 very proud miles, my dad bought it brand new back in 97, in all these years we havent replaced anything, only its regular maintenance but for the past 4 winters, i have a really hard time starting it in the cold mornings, we are talking about an average teens to below freezing temps. 19's-7+. well when i go start it the engine turns really slow, as if it had a drained battery, the only way to start it is by giving it some gas, when it starts if i let go off the gas pedal it stalls, it needs to get to operating temp, to stay on, i haved checked the battery and alternator but they are both good. this only happens in winter, during summer its perfectly fine, can this be a faulty MAF sensor, Coolant temp sensor or crank positioning sensor??.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
I have a question for you guys, i own a 97 xj with 247,000 very proud miles, my dad bought it brand new back in 97, in all these years we havent replaced anything, only its regular maintenance but for the past 4 winters, i have a really hard time starting it in the cold mornings, we are talking about an average teens to below freezing temps. 19's-7+. well when i go start it the engine turns really slow, as if it had a drained battery, the only way to start it is by giving it some gas, when it starts if i let go off the gas pedal it stalls, it needs to get to operating temp, to stay on, i haved checked the battery and alternator but they are both good. this only happens in winter, during summer its perfectly fine, can this be a faulty MAF sensor, Coolant temp sensor or crank positioning sensor??.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 10,447
Likes: 0
From: Frederick, MD
Year: 1989
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Originally Posted by donkeypunch
You will need good anchor point in the frame rails in front of the crumples. Two trees close enough for your amount of chain. Straps to protect the trees. Chains to attach to jeep and a chain ******. It's like a ratchet strap but for chains. Pull the crumple straight and weld on some steel plates to reinforce. I've got two trees in my yard we call the stretcher; done it more times than I can remember. Ill post a pic if I can find.
Newbie
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
From: Leadville,Colorado
Year: 97
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l il6
When was the last time you change the battery. If you have to press the gas to keep It going that's you "forcing" the alt to charge or enough to stay alive. Just cause it tests ok doesn't mean it has the power to crank the engine. Hell cranking Amps is like 300+. Also when was the last time you cleaned the grounds and battery terminals
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
You cleaned the terminals recently. Jut cause the top of the terminals are clean doesn't mean the terminals under the clamps are clean. Plus I'm giving you a free way to correct your issue. That's always the best isn't it. Clean the terminals with wire brush, put die electric grease on it. Clea the grounds and make sure wires are tight under the battery clamps. Many of us have had this similar issue, me included.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,387
Likes: 1
From: The Florida State University
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 L
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 12,692
Likes: 6
From: Mercer County, NJ
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6 HO
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 8,387
Likes: 1
From: The Florida State University
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I-6 4.0 L
I don't even think it's that much, I just think that the wires themselves are corroded. I use to have the same problem in heat... then I replaced the big three and now no issues what so ever.




