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Old Aug 24, 2015 | 10:37 AM
  #50896  
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From: Buffalo NY
Year: 2000 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1998 4.0l I6
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Nah, that's a first

I learned a good portion of what I know on this site, and I like to pass it on. It's easy when people are courteous and responsive like you
My legs still broke I'm stuck home all day. You make a book I'll buy the first copy.
"A new kind of guide to the Cherokee xj"
Written by Clown lol
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 10:45 AM
  #50897  
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Model: Cherokee
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my sport (99) caught fire, now out but, I need some parts. everything above the intake manifold, &. brake master cylinder. will b back I am sure
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 11:07 AM
  #50898  
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From: North Ga.
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Originally Posted by NewKindOfClown
Nah, that's a first

I learned a good portion of what I know on this site, and I like to pass it on. It's easy when people are courteous and responsive like you
That goes for me too!!!...I have looked for ever for that D-60 info. you turned me onto..Thanks Again
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 11:48 AM
  #50899  
93XJeeper's Avatar
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From: North Carolina
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
Alright, so im replacing the rear yoke on my Chrysler 8.25 and I got a couple questions. First off, I'm using a solid bearing and shims to replace the crush sleeve. Anyways, here's my questions.

1. Do I check the preload with the carrier and axle shafts in or while i have it out?
2. What's should preload be? 3. When measuring preload, do I check the resistance needed to get the yoke to start turning or the resistance to keep it turning once it's already turning?
3. Do I need to check ring gear backlash?
4. If I do need to check backlash what's should it be?
5. What should yoke be tightened to once finished?
6. Where can I get gear paint?
7. Also, anything done differently when using a solid bearing instead of crush sleeve?

Anything else I should know before doing this? Thanks

anybody?
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 12:09 PM
  #50900  
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default Ask the Question Thread

Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
Alright, so im replacing the rear yoke on my Chrysler 8.25 and I got a couple questions. First off, I'm using a solid bearing and shims to replace the crush sleeve. Anyways, here's my questions.
1. Do I check the preload with the carrier and axle shafts in or while i have it out?
2. What's should preload be?
3. When measuring preload, do I check the resistance needed to get the yoke to start turning or the resistance to keep it turning
once it's already turning?
3. Do I need to check ring gear backlash?
4. If I do need to check backlash what's should it be?
5. What should yoke be tightened to once finished?
6. Where can I get gear paint?
7. Also, anything done differently when using a solid bearing instead of crush sleeve?

Anything else I should know before doing this? Thanks
I can help on a couple. Preload is checked with only the pinion with it torqued. I'm not positive on the torque but I imagine it's 75-100ft/lb. My dana 60 was 250.. if you're reusing old bearings them preload should be 6-8 in/lbs. New bearings are 12-15 in/lbs. Preload is checked when your spinning the yoke, not the initial load.

Backlash shouldn't have to be checked because you're keeping the same pinion and ring gear but I'd you have a dial indicator it won't hurt to check. Backlash is. 006-.010

Gear paint could probably be bought at an auto parts store or amazon. I can't imagine anything should be different without a crush sleeve as long as its torqued.
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 12:14 PM
  #50901  
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From: Springfield Virginia
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My frame up at the steering box keeps cracking. I've reinforced but I'm going to completely box everything this week before my new axles.

My question, can I plate the area where the steering box mounts to the frame with 3/16 or will that small piece of metal cause clearance or steering issues when I mount my jcr steering spacer and box back?
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 12:37 PM
  #50902  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default Ask the Question Thread

Originally Posted by jswift716
My legs still broke I'm stuck home all day. You make a book I'll buy the first copy.
"A new kind of guide to the Cherokee xj"
Written by Clown lol
I guess I need to speak with my publisher
Originally Posted by DucMan
That goes for me too!!!...I have looked for ever for that D-60 info. you turned me onto..Thanks Again
Thanks, fellas. I really appreciate it
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 12:38 PM
  #50903  
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From: Frederick, MD from Cleveland, OH
Year: 1993 YJ Wrangler
Engine: 4.0 I6
Default Ask the Question Thread

Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
My frame up at the steering box keeps cracking. I've reinforced but I'm going to completely box everything this week before my new axles.

My question, can I plate the area where the steering box mounts to the frame with 3/16 or will that small piece of metal cause clearance or steering issues when I mount my jcr steering spacer and box back?
Have you tried using a steering box brace that reaches across to the other unibody rail? It takes a lot of stress off the steering box bolts and that weak section of rail
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 02:39 PM
  #50904  
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From: St.Petersburg, Russia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
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anybody?
Hope you'll find some helpful info.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf
DRIVE_A3.pdf (355.2 KB, 187 views)
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 07:14 PM
  #50905  
DucMan's Avatar
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From: North Ga.
Year: 1994
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
My frame up at the steering box keeps cracking. I've reinforced but I'm going to completely box everything this week before my new axles.

My question, can I plate the area where the steering box mounts to the frame with 3/16 or will that small piece of metal cause clearance or steering issues when I mount my jcr steering spacer and box back?
I'd use 1/8th minimum...heavy stress point...BUT...before installing new axles
.i'd really go over the frame (inside and out) and make sure your not building on a "rust bucket"...it's hard to see sometimes..I've beat the living tar out of mine and NEVER had a frame issue..check it out good..it may be time to "re-skin" your good parts..
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 07:18 PM
  #50906  
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Holy mackerel!! a Jeep dude in Russia?????...How the heck ya'll doin over there???..

Last edited by cruiser54; Aug 26, 2015 at 06:27 PM.
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 07:29 PM
  #50907  
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by ThatPurpleXJ
I can help on a couple. Preload is checked with only the pinion with it torqued. I'm not positive on the torque but I imagine it's 75-100ft/lb. My dana 60 was 250.. if you're reusing old bearings them preload should be 6-8 in/lbs. New bearings are 12-15 in/lbs. Preload is checked when your spinning the yoke, not the initial load. Backlash shouldn't have to be checked because you're keeping the same pinion and ring gear but I'd you have a dial indicator it won't hurt to check. Backlash is. 006-.010 Gear paint could probably be bought at an auto parts store or amazon. I can't imagine anything should be different without a crush sleeve as long as its torqued.
thanks, that's enough to info to get the job done!
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 07:40 PM
  #50908  
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Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
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Originally Posted by 93XJeeper
anybody?
Calm down Cowboy....I'd get a "genuine mechanic" to walk you through setting up a "third member"... this IS NOT SOMETHING YOU CAN LEARN OFF A FORUM!!!....It takes a few fxxkupz to even start leaning how to do it with "steel blue" ...I can..I'll set up a 9" or whatever in 1 hour...but I had to "Eat" my screwups" 45 years ago...not something for a "newbie" however....you might be surprised how easy it is to go to a "good" garage and ask for "shade tree" help...I've done "sliding scale" work all my life!...sometimes you can go " mjles" with a 6-pack...I'm doing $750.00 this weekend for an ol gal with a "cberry" 64 Bug..I like her but LOVE her car..LOL...
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 07:54 PM
  #50909  
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Default Just got an Xj and have some questions

Hey guys I'm brand new to the forum and have a few questions about my Xj I'm thinking about buying the 3.5 inch super flex kit from rubicon express. What size tires should I run I have 16 inch rims so it's gonna be metric because I'm not buying rims. It's 245/75/16s to small or should I go with 265/75/r16.Also does anyone have this kit and do you like it
Old Aug 24, 2015 | 07:59 PM
  #50910  
93XJeeper's Avatar
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From: North Carolina
Year: 1993
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Originally Posted by DucMan
Calm down Cowboy....I'd get a "genuine mechanic" to walk you through setting up a "third member"... this IS NOT SOMETHING YOU CAN LEARN OFF A FORUM!!!....It takes a few fxxkupz to even start leaning how to do it with "steel blue" ...I can..I'll set up a 9" or whatever in 1 hour...but I had to "Eat" my screwups" 45 years ago...not something for a "newbie" however....you might be surprised how easy it is to go to a "good" garage and ask for "shade tree" help...I've done "sliding scale" work all my life!...sometimes you can go " mjles" with a 6-pack...I'm doing $750.00 this weekend for an ol gal with a "cberry" 64 Bug..I like her but LOVE her car..LOL...
lol, it's a Chrysler 8.25 and I'm just replacing the yoke.



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