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Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:20 PM
  #35896  
OleBlue's Avatar
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From: Yakima
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
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Originally Posted by Jeepenjack
I'm trying to change my brakes from drum to disc ,on a 96 cherokee .I now realize I have to remove the axel from the sleeve .Rented a puller from autozone and it doesn't seem to be moving . Can any one give me a little help with this .

You need to remove the c-clips from inside the differential housing. Then the axles slide right out.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 10:36 PM
  #35897  
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From: Baltimore, MD
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Shine a light in the oil filler hole and assess the sludge build-up. Snap a photo and post it up.

Will do. Not until next saturday though. Its in storage.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:10 PM
  #35898  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
1988 4dr xj

Driver upper door hinge broke the welds and was completely detached from the body a few months back. I had my neighbor weld the hinge back on. What we did was remove the fender, put a wood block under the lip of the door while closed and jacked it up to where it was slightly above the rear door line. He welded the hinge back on the body and released the jack and it settled slightly lower than the rear door line.

My question is- is there a way to adjust the door at the hinge where the 3 start bolts are? The door drags on the latch pin and I have to slam it or close it and push and lift up really hard to close.

I am aware that I need a new door lock, I am trying to make this work for now until I get a chance to get one.
Any ideas people?
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:17 PM
  #35899  
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From: Baltimore, MD
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6 HO
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Any ideas people?
Do not loosen the hinge bolts. Your door will sag more than even forever.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:18 PM
  #35900  
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From: Ware Shoals, SC
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
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Remove fender. Then loosen all six bolts on door. Then close door. Then retighten the bolts. That should have them adjusted right.

If he just rewelded hinge to sheet metal, it will tear off again. It needs thicker plate welded in as reinforcement. Then hinge welded to that.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:19 PM
  #35901  
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From: ☼ Blackhole Sun
Year: My Jeep is a GMC
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I'm not famialar with the oldies but are there bushings around the hinge pin? As well the latch bolt if it has a Torx head should be adjustable.
Old Oct 6, 2013 | 11:51 PM
  #35902  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by bulrid8
Remove fender. Then loosen all six bolts on door. Then close door. Then retighten the bolts. That should have them adjusted right.

If he just rewelded hinge to sheet metal, it will tear off again. It needs thicker plate welded in as reinforcement. Then hinge welded to that.
We didn't have any material at the time, we cleaned up the edges with a grinder and he just welded a fat bead all the way around the square. The door itself has no play in it. It doesn't flex the metal at the hinge like it used to before it broke. I just am tired of having to slam the door or push and lift up.

I plan to swap my lock mechanism because it got chewed up before we fixed the door.
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 06:42 AM
  #35903  
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From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
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Originally Posted by DESERTXJ206
Any ideas people?
BTW, I looked and don't have a latch...
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 09:55 AM
  #35904  
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From: Springfield Virginia
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Does anyone have a diagram for the door wiring for a 97-01. I'm putting in zj harnesses and would like to know what wires I can delete
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 10:06 AM
  #35905  
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From: Glendale,Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l 6Cyl
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Originally Posted by cruiser54

BTW, I looked and don't have a latch...
OK thanks anyway!
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 10:07 AM
  #35906  
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From: Del city, OK
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: L6
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I recently replaced my tcm on my 87 Cherokee pioneer L6. Because it was shifting up and down while cruising on level ground. Now I'll admit what I did next was stupid and irresponsible, I removed the in-line fuse on the blue wire with the yellow stripe that connected to the yellow wire. My brilliant idea was that "hey when this thing pops I don't want to have to go looking for it" but you know what? It was there for a reason, who knew? So I had to replace the black wire that that line eventually gets to in the direction opposite the tcm cuz it boiled its casing and the jeep wouldn't start. That done, it now starts but drive feels like when you go to second instead of fourth on a manual. Low 2 will take off like it used to but won't shift, switching to higher drive gears seems to work at speed. And I don't think it's the tcm because I hooked the old one back up and same problem, it did at least shift properly during acceleration before.

So what part do I need to replace now?
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #35907  
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From: hambleton, wv
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Just a quick simple question...
Will a motor out of a 94or 95 fit into my 97 cherokee 4.0? The 94 and 95 motors I can get cheap
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 11:10 AM
  #35908  
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From: Washington, MO
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Rear brake line.... has anyone tied that thing up some how so it doesn't hang?
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 11:26 AM
  #35909  
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Herp Derp Jerp
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From: Parham, ON
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L OBD-II
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Originally Posted by dwilly
Just a quick simple question...
Will a motor out of a 94or 95 fit into my 97 cherokee 4.0? The 94 and 95 motors I can get cheap
Yes. There's a slight difference as 97+ doesn't have a temp sending unit in the back of the head, so just plug that and off you go. Keep your sensors and gadgetry.

Originally Posted by Tony_SS
Rear brake line.... has anyone tied that thing up some how so it doesn't hang?
Soft line? Hard line not secure to frame? E-brake cable?
Old Oct 7, 2013 | 02:09 PM
  #35910  
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From: hambleton, wv
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
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Thanks salad.



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